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sticking throttle

Started by kcederwall08, August 05, 2008, 03:41:58 AM

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kcederwall08

Just recently I replaced my motor mounts due to the drivers side being completely torn which would cause the engine to go full throttle with just a touch from the pedal. After I installed the new ones, the engine wouldn't take off like it used to, but the throttle is still seeming to "stick" at around 3000 rpm and it seems to rev up faster. Also after it sticks it wont go back down to idle when I come to a stop. It will idle at around 1200rpm or higher. To get it to unstuck I have to put it in neutral and rev it and it will most of the time come slowly back down. The strange thing is that it doesn't stick at a high idle all the time. No matter what I do I cant seem to make it any better. :brickwall:  I have readjusted the throttle cable to see if it would help, but no luck. The car is a 383 with a 727.

What could be the problem? The only thing i can think of is possibly a torn transmission mount that happened when the engine mount broke, but would a transmission mount cause this?
I've already checked the engine mount to see if it is broken and it isn't that I can see.

Any Ideas? :shruggy:

aifilaw

mounts have absolutely nothing to do with this, its a by-product, meaning your linkage and throttle cable is getting stuck/pulled. Or you have faulty springs on your carberator, either your retension spring, your main throttle body spring, or your secondaries spring.
Double-check your linkage and then start looking into the carberator, therein lies your problem.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Steve P.

I would remove the linkages and see if that takes the problem away. You have to narrow it down till you hit the problem..  Could be many things, but with new drivers side mount I have to say it's NOT that.. Tranny mount won't do it either.. More than likely a worn throttle shaft or linkages getting hung up on something.

Keep us posted..
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

kcederwall08

okay, so I removed the kick down linkage, and readjusted the throttle linkage to make sure they were not the cause, and the throttle is still "sticking". It seems to get worse the longer I drive it, and it doesn't seem to stick while the car is still warming up. I got it to stick in my driveway, and i looked in the top of the carb while it was stuck at about 1600rpm in neutral. I think it may be that the secondaries are stuck open. Could this be the cause? A while ago i brought my car into a shop to get looked at and they said the secondaries weren't functioning right.

What can I do to fix this? the carburetor is a 750cfm Eddy performer carb. I'm guessing this means a rebuild?

aifilaw

There's a simple three-step fix to this problem:

1. Remove Edelbrock Carb, throw in trash can
2. Get holley double-pumper
3. Install holley double-pumper and tune.

Fixed.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Steve P.

DING DING DING DING DING.....    We have a winner.............

Do exactly as stated above....  Eddy carbs are not worth the time to rebuild in my opinion. More trouble than they are worth..


Replace it with a Holley and have a beer...  :cheers:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

mikepmcs

I bet it's the gasket causing the sticking issue. 
remove the carb and try a new gasket. :Twocents:
Ask me how I know. 

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

oldschool

Quote from: aifilaw on August 05, 2008, 03:40:12 PM
There's a simple three-step fix to this problem:

1. Remove Edelbrock Carb, throw in trash can
2. Get holley double-pumper
3. Install holley double-pumper and tune.

Fixed.
:

:iagree:     could not have said it any better,they do not make any real power,are harder to tune,and they do not look as good as a holley........
1968 cuda formula S bb 4-sp                          1968 Charger R/T 500" 4-sp
1970 Charger 580" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
TOO MUCH HORSEPOWER, IS ALMOST ENOUGH!

kcederwall08

ok, thanks for the help guys. I didn't really do the research on the carb before I bought it. Is this the carb I should be looking into? http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-4779C/10002/-1


mikepmcs

I still say the throttle plates might be sticking on the gasket.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

firefighter3931

Quote from: kcederwall08 on August 07, 2008, 12:43:58 AM
ok, thanks for the help guys. I didn't really do the research on the carb before I bought it. Is this the carb I should be looking into? http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-4779C/10002/-1




What is the engine combination ; headers ? Cam ? Intake manifold ? stall speed ? rear end gearing ?  :scratchchin:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

kcederwall08

The motor is a 383 block, stroked to 438, stock heads, edelbrock rpm manifold, stock manifolds, but i will be upgrading to headers. also new coverter ( not sure on the stall, maybe 3,000), stock 8 3/4 should be 3.23 gears, mild 440 cam (i think around 480 lift, again i dont know the exact details, I had my engine machinist order the cam). I was recommended a 750cfm carburator by my auto tech teacher who knew all the details of my engine.

Is this gasket your talking about just the gasket that goes between the carb and the manifold? I'd like to try to get this carb working even if I dont intend to keep it in the long run.

firefighter3931

Quote from: kcederwall08 on August 07, 2008, 09:06:39 PM

Is this gasket your talking about just the gasket that goes between the carb and the manifold? I'd like to try to get this carb working even if I dont intend to keep it in the long run.


Yes, pull the carb and see if any part of the gasket is overhanging and interfering with the throttle blades. Trim as needed.  ;)



Quote from: kcederwall08 on August 07, 2008, 09:06:39 PM
The motor is a 383 block, stroked to 438, stock heads, edelbrock rpm manifold, stock manifolds, but i will be upgrading to headers. also new coverter ( not sure on the stall, maybe 3,000), stock 8 3/4 should be 3.23 gears, mild 440 cam (i think around 480 lift, again i dont know the exact details, I had my engine machinist order the cam). I was recommended a 750cfm carburator by my auto tech teacher who knew all the details of my engine.



With that engine combination i would use the Proform 750 double pumper.  :2thumbs:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs