New Buildup

[aifilaw]

Well, as much as I'm on a budget, I've seen the charger sit with the original 383 ever since I blew up (spun #5 and 6 bearing on the crank) at the dragstrip years ago.
The randomish heads I was able to find have broken off exhaust studs, leak out the top, there's oil and grease everywhere.
It's finally time to start working on it again:
So, for your viewing pleasure, here's a list of things that need to be done (according to the wife's input as well), and then a list of things I plan on doing in the future. Prices are ball-parked, some are off of vendors, some are simply the price I can do it for myself/et cetera. So don't hold much stock in them.

Stealth Cylinder Heads $900 - I'll be doing some minor port-work and cleanup along with a valve job and back-cut on the exhaust sides as per my usual style.
Iron Ductile Rockers - $150 - Can't beat em
Relatively mild cam and probably Crane Cams Hydrallic Roller lifters $750 - darn lifters cost is ridiculous, if I could determine the proper height for the oiling inlet and sizing I would probably throw cheapo ones in there off a chevy SB.
Headers $0 - already have a nice set sitting in the garage
Ignition $0 - Orange box sitting around somewhere
Distributer $0 - time to retire the MSD on my car, I'm thinking I will go with a programmable holley since I liked the last one I did so much
Fuel Line $100 - time to upgrade to 3/8"
Brakes $50 - its about time I reinstalled my emergency break since I've had a leak in the fronts for 7 years
rear leaf springs $250 - been needing them for a while now

List of things I plan on doing when I have the extra cash little by little
brakes $1,000 - need to put discs all-around, something that will actually stop the car
833OD $1,500 - been wanting to convert away from the darn 727 for years
Front and rear sway bars $500
new rear wing $400 - someone before me took it off, I will need it again for what I plan on doing
paint job $3,000 - lord only knows
new dash $300 - stylish crack has been there too long
new carpet inside $50
2.76's in the rear 8-3/4

Now I know a lot of people are wondering why I'm not building another beast, but honestly I've had my fun at the dragstrip, and its really not that much fun anymore. The drone of my dual flowmaster 60's thru 4" iron pipe was enough to set off car alarms half a block away, but it will kill you on a road trip.
I think I will keep this one somewhat low, leave the bottom end of the block alone for now and stick around 500 hp and 450 ft lbs of torque. with flat-tops and those heads, a mild cam and electronic ignition and fuel injection I should be able to hit 25mpg on the highway and still be able to move out of my own way. 200mph may be a little presumptive, but its plausible.

So, comments, questions, insights that I'm missing...
Besides, its been too many years since I joined Todd at the okie and Kansas events, and ardmore was beautiful.

[badass]

Sounds differnt keep us posted on the details ,like the gas mileage,why the gear choice? Im leaning twards 355 or 373 to replace my 323 its a r/t and dont have posi.       

[tan top]

intresting game plan      ...........

[aifilaw]

One of the main reasons was... over the last dozen or so 383 BB builds I've done, every single time its always a custom cam, because there just isn't a market for it. And I always end up burning another $50-100 for it.

I haven't looked hard, but so far I'm only finding 2-3 hydraulic roller cam grinds out there for the application, and I'm really not pleased with them I gotta say. But I'm tired of being forced to look for high zinc content oils, use assembly lube... all for a result that has more friction and less power.

The gear choice really is for the gas mileage and the top speed, I'd probably go with a 3.08, but then, later if I put more power into it, then I know I will want more. Sticking with the standard bore and stroke and going with a hydraulic roller, if I really wanted to I could make an engine that can really scream to an RPM in a big hurry. I'm thinking road race potential, 200mph club, and something that could live out the rest of its life being a road-trip car I can fit the family in and have a good time.

[firefighter3931]

Interesting build....fyi a chevy .842 lifter will not fit in a mopar block (.904)....i suppose you could install it but your oil pressure would be zilch. 

The hyd roller stuff is super expensive. I'd be more inclined to use a flat tappet solid with EDM priority oiling to the lobes. A fast rate solid will make more power than a street hyd roller. You can buy a lot of oil and EOS for the difference it will cost to convert to roller. No bronze distributor drive and no electric fuel pump required, either.

A performer rpm would be a good choice with that proposed gearing and a heavy b-body. 

RalleyMike has a 383 in his roadrace 3rd gen and seems to like it. Not sure what Mike's top speed is but i know it flat out flies on the open road. 


Good luck with your project 



Ron

[aifilaw]

Well I've been running an electric fuel pump for a long time, so that's not an issue.
I've done my fair share of solids with adjustable valvetrains, and that's part of the reason I'm wanting hydrallic roller... set it to zero lash and leave it alone for 100,000 miles is ok by me now.
The cam is going to make a big difference of whether I stick with my ported holley single plane or go to a perf. rpm air gap dual plane... trouble is like I mentioned, I can't seem to find any off-the-shelf hydrallic roller cams I can stand...

Know any other stock hydrallic roller lifters that come close enough to possible work?

[Rolling_Thunder]

Ron - random question - if one was so inclined to use Chevy lifters - couldn't one install bronze bushings drilled for oil to restrict the lifter bore to the chev size ?    maybe not cost efficient but wouldn't it be possible ?

[RallyeMike]

500hp, 2.76 gear and OD is not a good set up to go 200mph in a brick-shaped Charger.  Your rpm will be too low to push the car to 200mph in 4th. You might hit 185 or so in 3rd if you wind the hell out of the motor and make some aero improvements.

If you want to go 200, find your max rpm and back calc to find your final drive ratio. It will prob have to be in the 2.50-2.70 range depending on tire and max rpm. Then build a stout enough engine to take it. 

Last - The 833 OD aluminum case trans wont survive long at those speeds. The countershaft eggs out the case when lots of hp is applied. Mine is surviving so far in the sustained 130-150 range with short burst to near 170, but the folks I know that tried them for heavier duty found that they did not last. I'm probably at the ragged edge or beyond at my speeds. If you can find the less abundant iron case OD's it might fair better.

[firefighter3931]

Ron - random question - if one was so inclined to use Chevy lifters - couldn't one install bronze bushings drilled for oil to restrict the lifter bore to the chev size ?    maybe not cost efficient but wouldn't it be possible ?

I suppose anything is possible allthough i've never heard of it being done. In theory it should work but it's much easier and cheaper to buy the correct lifters. 



Ron

[aifilaw]

yeah, final drive is still up for debate on 2.76, 3.08 or maybe something slightly larger, doubtful though.

Biggest thing I'm working on right now, is trying to find a cheap method to go hydraulic rollers so I don't have to deal with oil issues and adjusting my valve train constantly.

[Rolling_Thunder]

Last - The 833 OD aluminum case trans wont survive long at those speeds. The countershaft eggs out the case when lots of hp is applied. Mine is surviving so far in the sustained 130-150 range with short burst to near 170, but the folks I know that tried them for heavier duty found that they did not last. I'm probably at the ragged edge or beyond at my speeds. If you can find the less abundant iron case OD's it might fair better.

Mike - What if you drilled out the mounting holes and installed brass bushings ? I've heard that can help with high HP applications - think it would cure the problems ?