Kick down linkage play

[Bob]

How much play should there be in the kick down linkage attached to the carb? I currently have none.
74 Charger, 400, 4bbl
Bob

[John_Kunkel]

There should be no play, the rear of the slot in the top rod should rest against the back side of the carb stud and there should be a spring pulling the linkage forward against the stud.

[uud looz]

Are you saying that even without the spring, the rear of the slot should be against the stud? (not the spring just holding it there) When I adjust mine this way (rear of slot touching carb stud) then I can not get WOT from carb, the trans kickdown linkage bottoms out and stops the carb from opening.

[firefighter3931]

Are you saying that even without the spring, the rear of the slot should be against the stud? (not the spring just holding it there) When I adjust mine this way (rear of slot touching carb stud) then I can not get WOT from carb the trans kickdown linkage bottoms out and stops the carb from opening.

Your KD linkage is not adjusted correctly....the carb should open to wide open without interferance. 

Back the rod off a bit....you should be able to get WOT and still have the KD linkage move a hair. 



Ron

[Bob]

There should be no play, the rear of the slot in the top rod should rest against the back side of the carb stud and there should be a spring pulling the linkage forward against the stud.

When I was useing a edelbrock carb, I ruined 2 transmissions because (I read in a string here) that there was to much pressure against the kick down linkage. Now that I have a TQ I just wanted to make sure it was adjusted properly. There is a spring attached.

[uud looz]

I dont mean to hijack here but I'm just trying to get a clear idea.  I asked a local mopar tranny guy here and he told me to loosen screw block that holds linkage at trans(my only rod  adjustment is at trans) have someone hold the gas pedal to wide open, make sure carb plates are wide open, then hold lever at trans full back and tighten locking bolt. Does this sound right? When I do this and the carb lever is back at idle position, the rear edge of slot is @ 1/4 inch from carb stud without the spring.(when the spring is in place it pulls the linkage to the stud)

[Bob]

Sounds logical to me.
Thanks

[John_Kunkel]

The old "slam 'er wide open and set the linkage full back" works some of the time but most often results in late part throttle upshifts. On correct linkage, correctly setup and correctly adjusted there will be a small amount of linkage movement left at WOT.

Once again, there should be no gap between the back of the carb stud and the rear of the slot in the top rod. Any gap leads to lost motion and you don't want that, the linkage should start to move rearward with the slightest throttle movement. That's why it's important to have a spring pulling the linkage forward against the stud.

If the linkage in use is not original to the carb being used don't expect it to work correctly; some tweaking may be in order. The main goal is to have the transmission lever full forward at warm idle, have the linkage move in proportion to the throttle movement and have a little linkage movement left at WOT.

[Bob]

Thank you Mr Kunkel.

[hutch]

I found that  a 1/8th inch of play in my kick down is the best setting.  Dont know why, and not sure if its a sign of issues with my tranny.  I tried the zero slack setting but the thing would just stay in 1st gear.  So I stated to ease it out a 1/32 at a time and played with it and found it works great at 1/8th slack.  No idea why, I just played with it and pissed off the neighbors with test passes down my street all day.   

73 se with 440/727

[Bob]

Thanks Hutch