WARNING! DANGER! If you are or will run a flat tappet cam read this!!!

[Ghoste]

When it comes to my car I don't like "should have". 

[quadram4]

I was told by an old Detroit racer that STP oil additive, the red bottle for 4 cyl. engines is all u need with 5 quarts of good oil. I have been using that combo on all my flat tappet cam muscle cars for many, many years and I have NEVER destroyed a cam, and I drive my Mopars like they were meant to be driven!!!! Cheap and good!
Bob

[440]

My post went missing so I'll post again.....

This is news to me, it's the first time I've heard of it. I've been running the standard Royal Purple Synthetic in all of my cars for years now and haven't encountered any problems. I've never had a cam/ lifter or anything else go bad for that matter other then a couple of fuel pumps. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles although that doesn't seem like it would be of any benefit relating to this.

Now that I own a fairly high dollar Mopar with purple cam I'm more concerned. Now I guess I'll have to go pick up an additive or zinc rich oil for that added assurance from now on.

Thanks everyone for bringing to my attention and others who have not heard of it before.

[NorwayCharger]

My post went missing so I'll post again.....

This is news to me, it's the first time I've heard of it. I've been running the standard Royal Purple Synthetic in all of my cars for years now and haven't encountered any problems. I've never had a cam/ lifter or anything else go bad for that matter other then a couple of fuel pumps. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles although that doesn't seem like it would be of any benefit relating to this.

Now that I own a fairly high dollar Mopar with purple cam I'm more concerned. Now I guess I'll have to go pick up an additive or zinc rich oil for that added assurance from now on.

Thanks everyone for bringing to my attention and others who have not heard of it before.

Just use the Royal Purple Racing oil, it has a lot of zinc.

[FLG]

Just a heads up,

Just broke in my 440, shop used Joe Gibbs break-in oil and i made sure i put plenty of lube on the cam and lifters..no issues at all 

[jeryst]

My post went missing so I'll post again.....

This is news to me, it's the first time I've heard of it. I've been running the standard Royal Purple Synthetic in all of my cars for years now and haven't encountered any problems. I've never had a cam/ lifter or anything else go bad for that matter other then a couple of fuel pumps. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles although that doesn't seem like it would be of any benefit relating to this.

Now that I own a fairly high dollar Mopar with purple cam I'm more concerned. Now I guess I'll have to go pick up an additive or zinc rich oil for that added assurance from now on.

Thanks everyone for bringing to my attention and others who have not heard of it before.

Just use the Royal Purple Racing oil, it has a lot of zinc.

I dont know about the Royal Purple, but running racing oil in a street engine is not a good idea.
I've heard that most racing oils do not contain the additives/detergents needed to properly protect a street engine.

[NorwayCharger]

My post went missing so I'll post again.....

This is news to me, it's the first time I've heard of it. I've been running the standard Royal Purple Synthetic in all of my cars for years now and haven't encountered any problems. I've never had a cam/ lifter or anything else go bad for that matter other then a couple of fuel pumps. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles although that doesn't seem like it would be of any benefit relating to this.

Now that I own a fairly high dollar Mopar with purple cam I'm more concerned. Now I guess I'll have to go pick up an additive or zinc rich oil for that added assurance from now on.

Thanks everyone for bringing to my attention and others who have not heard of it before.

Just use the Royal Purple Racing oil, it has a lot of zinc.

I dont know about the Royal Purple, but running racing oil in a street engine is not a good idea.
I've heard that most racing oils do not contain the additives/detergents needed to properly protect a street engine.

Racing & "Not Street Legal" Racing Oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include less detergents than regular conventional motor oils.

Just change the oil more often, and you´ll be ok

[440]

I already change the oil every 3000 miles in all of my other cars. This particular car however wont go out too often, maybe twice a month so it would take a while to rack up 3000 miles... I should probably change it every 3 months regardless as they recommend but at the expense of oil now I'll probably change it every 6 months....

[squeakfinder]

   I think this discussion should be in this thread.....




http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=81231.new;topicseen#new
                             

[AKcharger]

Actually I just referanced that topic back to this one so it's a Post Circle (PC)

[super77se]

 so i fired my fresh 360 a couple months ago and i went through the cam break in with some GM 10/30 that is rich with a zinc additive for about 20 hours or so on and off , and put probably 30 or 40 miles on it and then drained the oil and changed the filter adding 6 quarts of full synthetic castrol gt and i have probably put another 50 or 60 miles on it . am i safe ? should i throw some sort of additive back in the mix ? any suggestions ?

[FLG]

Dont bother with the synthetic crap IMO just buy a good quality oil, joe gibbs, penzoil..etc (the ones you can usually only find in speed shops or online) along with a zinc additive and change your oil regularly. Depending on how hard you drive the car, if you go to the track..you will want to change it more often, if you really dont get on it all the time or dont use it reguraly id say change it every 3k or 6 months...its cheap insurance.

[ACUDANUT]

 Changing oil every 3 or 6 months is a waste of money it you have not driven the car....Add Sea-foam to remove condensation, if that's what your worried about. 

[FLG]

Changing oil every 3 or 6 months is a waste of money it you have not driven the car....Add Sea-foam to remove condensation, if that's what your worried about. 

Think that depends on the engine and how its driven when it is driven. On a stock motor that dosnt see much action, id agree but on a nicely built motor that sees the upper rpm range when its driven, i rather be safe than sorry.

[The70RT]

Has anybody seen this stuff, fairly new stuff on the market. You can buy it at most auto part stores. Rislone oil treatment with zinc.

[bakerhillpins]

Here is a FAQ for the product I found from a simple google search. My local Advance Auto apparently carries this stuff.

What is Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment?
Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment is a petroleum oil performance supplement "booster"
containing high levels of ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) Zinc and Phosphorus additives to help better
protect internal engine components including pistons, flat tappet camshafts, lifters and the valvetrain. This
is especially important at engine start up, when most wear is done. That is why they say one of the worst
things you can do is start your engine.

Will it work in synthetic oil?
Yes, Rislone works with all petroleum-based motor oils including conventional, high mileage and synthetic
formulas.

How much Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment do I install?
(Do not overfill)
GASOLINE ENGINES (Cars & Light Trucks)
1996 and older – Add one bottle to engine crankcase.
1997 to 2004 – Add approximately ½ bottle (16 ounces) to engine.
DIESEL ENGINES (Light, Medium & Heavy-Duty)
2006 and older – Add one bottle to engine crankcase for every 5 quarts of oil capacity.
OTHER APPLICATIONS
For 4-stroke motorcycles, agricultural, industrial and racing applications use at 20% crankcase capacity.
For example if your engine holds 5 quarts of motor oil, use 4 bottles of oil and 1 quart of Rislone.

[440]

All I could find in the local parts houses were Lucas break in oil treatment and Hyper Lube... The hyper lube claimed to protect better than zinc but doesn't contain any zinc (moly based). I have always run Royal Purple but it seems the Racing formula is now called XPR, HPX also claims to be high in Zinc? From what I've read RP is quite a bit more expensive than other zinc rich oils, I wonder why.

What is the preferred oil that contains adequate zinc without mixing ?

What is the preferred zinc additive now that GM and Mopar EOS is discontinued ?

I haven't bought any quality oil in the past 4 years so I am out of the loop.

[Fred]

I've been using Brad Penn for years now and I'm very happy with it. It has plenty of zinc. I started with 15w-40 but it was a bit too thin for my liknig so now I'm using 20w-50 and it seems to be perfect.
Here's some info for you.

[440]

Anyone know what the Zinc/Phosphorus is of Royal Purple, they seem to be the only ones who don't divulge anything. Their new high performance oils (at least new from when I last bought oil) claim to be Zinc/Phosphorus enriched, but that's a bit too vague for me. Would you still run an additive with RP ?

They also claim that testing with zinc/phosphorous in their oil has had no short or long term effect on cats  

I'm actually quite blown away that the speed shop I went to was pretty unaware of this issue.... I don't get it

 

[NorwayCharger]

Lab test : http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=199307

[440]

Wow, Although the 20/50w isn't listed I'm sure it's close. I'm surprised the HPS has more Zinc/Phosphorus than the XPR.

  No additional additives needed in that case.

[Fred]

Does anybody use Kendall oil?  Is it any good?
I'm able to get hold of it over here now and I'm wondering about the zinc content. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

[Ghoste]

To my knowledge the Kendall is no better for our engines than any of the other "mainstream" brands.  Check the API label on the side and it should tell you.

[Fred]

To my knowledge the Kendall is no better for our engines than any of the other "mainstream" brands.  Check the API label on the side and it should tell you.

[tan top]

always used compcams breakin addtive with every oil change  ,  now just started using this  ,  
 


http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/zep.html