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Broken motor mounts.....here's the fix

Started by firefighter3931, May 02, 2006, 08:52:20 PM

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elacruze

This is all much ado about nothing.

Countersink until the heads are flush if necessary, they will not pull through. The strength of the bolts and mount material far exceed what the engine can deliver.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
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Torque converters are for construction equipment.

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

firefighter3931

Right on Charlie....looks great !  :2thumbs:

You're good to go !  :yesnod:

Happy to report mine has been holding up well for several years now....and the 572 sure does try to put a hurting on that driver side mount.  :icon_smile_big:

It hasn't given up yet and I don't expect it ever will  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

fy469rtse

Good upgrade Ron, thanks , just did mine as starting to get through the to do list, very easy to do and like you said , very strong and hidden,
Always went the hard way with cable and grooved washers with cable set to just pull tight and near end of mount stretch,
Like the way this will prevent too much engine movement or lift to that side,
Hardest part was removing the mount and replacing, worth doing  :2thumbs:

fy469rtse

What I should have posted was fitting mount in car , those of you going to this to a mount already installed in car,
The following I had to do, undo centre section cross over pipe of exhaust and remove , loosen engine mount bolts. All, don't remove yet, undo transmission crossmember with jack under tranny, I used two stands with a piece o timber across, lower transmission so engine on more of a angle,
Had to put jack under engine now to that side of sump with a good piece of timber to spread load on sump, this help preventing denting
Lift engine slightly so you can remove bolts, and lift engine as high as you can get it,
Trans mission will stop everything lifting too far, it will bottom out against floor , but just enough hopefully, it worked for me, got engine up just higher enough to get engine mount out, was a pain because steering box limited room to get mount out,
Couldn't get enough lift out of engine without lowering the transmission,
You will need to allow a couple of hours to do this , drilling the mount and installing the bolts took all of 15 minutes,
Hope this helps anyone going to this to a engine mount in car

don duick

I did this, now I have vibration throughout my car. I used a nylock nut and does not touch the metal plate on the engine side of the mount. However the bolt I think must be touching the upper plate of the mount. I should have drilled a larger hole.

fy469rtse

Did you use the counter sunk head as shown , if you have a normal head to bolt , it won't clear, it will sit up too high and touch

don duick

yes I used countersunk head it went a bit crocked and I grounded it flat. It must be hitting hard against the upper metal bracket. I must emphasise that this be done  very neatly and the bolt is not touching the upper metal plate. I will re do this one day cant be bothered as it is really difficult to remove and replace a mount.

Steve P.

This is the first time I've ever heard of this fix causing a vibration through the car. I've done a few sets myself and some for others and never had this issue.  :shruggy:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

stuubi

Great tip Ron,I'll definetly going to do this mod on my -70.Engine is coming together and hopefully will have dyno time before it falls in the bay.

Ordered stock mount's and will go to hardware store from here.

Thanks

Highbanked Hauler

  Mine is yet to be seen, when I did them I cook out about half the rubber in the mount so there is a chance I could have a vibration problem. :Twocents:
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser

Jaysick

This just happened to me for the second time in 2 years!  Sooo glad i found this before I changed it out again tomorrow!  Thanks Buddy!

skip68

I did mine and it was great.  No vibration and didn't break anymore.   :2thumbs:
skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


rt_bigblock

We have to plenty of mount mods ,Here we have replaced too, I got  sick of changing mounts on all time , We support the bolts through the mounts, with old clutch plate springs, they are perfect with a small chain small as well,  For back up ,I hate solid mounts they just shake the car loose unless its' a drag car only , And very bad harmonics for the feel of the drive when just cruising ..Also we put a brass plate on the other side so when under hard use the motor is a 1/2 inch, more level ... it works no rubbing and less stress on the box from the twist from torque ..even or a stocker.

generalB

Quote from: 70kracken on May 03, 2006, 08:57:08 PM
i have solid mounts, that fixes everything......no drilling, no buying bolts, just buy em and slap em in



i had solid mounts on a 440 in a 68 man i hated all the vibrations and noise i would get from them. rubber mounts isolated it for me.  i like them

bee1971

All these jobber cheap motor mounts are junk , even before trying this modification

Two I got from O Reilly's Anchor 2250 the welded nuts where crooked and one fell off in the box , serious

Metal looks thin as paper

Two I got from Napa , bolt studs for mount need to bee shortened but the problem with there's was the welded nut and opposing holes looked fine but where a 1/2" further away from the mounts then factory so they didn't sit flush on the K Frame when running the bolts through , mounts sat at least 1/2" off the Frame

Who the hell sells a decent motor mount to begin with before doing this mod ? Something at least fits proper

432 Stroker Motor will bee done this week for my 71 Superbee

BLK 68 R/T

Quote from: bee1971 on October 31, 2017, 07:14:38 AM
All these jobber cheap motor mounts are junk , even before trying this modification

Two I got from O Reilly's Anchor 2250 the welded nuts where crooked and one fell off in the box , serious

Metal looks thin as paper

Two I got from Napa , bolt studs for mount need to bee shortened but the problem with there's was the welded nut and opposing holes looked fine but where a 1/2" further away from the mounts then factory so they didn't sit flush on the K Frame when running the bolts through , mounts sat at least 1/2" off the Frame

Who the hell sells a decent motor mount to begin with before doing this mod ? Something at least fits proper


432 Stroker Motor will bee done this week for my 71 Superbee

Here are a few.

http://www.mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm
http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

aerolith

Great idea homemade failsafe mounts, bought some shummy mounts and the engine would sit on the K-member no matter how much you frigged about with them?

Never worked out what was wrong with'em... :shruggy:
Never send to know, for whom the bell tolls,
IT TOLLS FOR THEE...

John Donne 1623

resq302

Ron,

Thanks again for posting this mod !  I used it on my old charger and just did it to the original factory motor mounts that were on the car from  Nov. 1968 (date code).  Now I'm able to keep the "original" mounts with the car and only have to have one "slightly modified" original mount.  I ended up using the mount that looked like it was starting to crack and the other original mount is nice and soft with no signs of cracking.  Thats going on my pass side.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

johnnycharger

Has anyone done this to a polyurethane type of mount? Do they make poly mounts for our cars?

johnnycharger