Yikes! Those R/T-only gauge clusters are spendy

[bull]

"This This is a 1968 DODGE :Charger  R/T ! **** { >ONLY< } **** Instrument Gauge Cluster"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Dodge-Charger-R-T-only-Inst-Gauge-Cluster_W0QQitemZ250258570384QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250258570384&;

[1969chargerrtse]

  Gee, glad I have a 69.  Small pictures and not in perfect shape by any means, nice ,but......?

[max]

yeah, expensive but look what a ralley cluster for a 1970-1971 big block e-body goes for
everyone one of those e-body clusters seem to be near the $1k mark

[terrible one]

Wow.

One that member lilwendal just sold went for $191 and some change, everything working but the clock . . . but that was a '69 

[Troy]

If it were for a R/T Hemi 4-speed can you imagine what it would go for? I like how he says to not ask questions...

Troy

[Dans 68]

Well, all righty then...what makes it a R/T dash?     Looks like a generic 1968 Dodge Charger dash. You can have options, of course (rear defroster switch, tic/tach/clock, rear speaker control, A/C controls) but none are unique to R/T's.    So, tell me, what don't I know?

Dan

[Brock Samson]

i don't know much about the lesser '68s but i belive the round emblem between tach and speedo is unique to the lesser '68s... 
didn't the actual R/Ts have a R/T specific emblem?.. 

[ACUDANUT]

  That guy selling it sounds like a 3rd grader. 

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

i don't know much about the lesser '68s but i belive the round emblem between tach and speedo is unique to the lesser '68s... 
didn't the actual R/Ts have a R/T specific emblem?.. 

No ....only 68 Coronet R/T's had them.......and my 69

Wow!  Over $700 for an incorrectly painted cluster.....its not even rechromed   People need to do their homework

[Kevin68N71]

Hmmm, this is odd...the tachs I thought all Chargers had was 0 RPM on the left bottom corner, winding up and the last 1/3rd or so being RED.

Will have to research this one...

[Dans 68]

Hmmm, this is odd...the tachs I thought all Chargers had was 0 RPM on the left bottom corner, winding up and the last 1/3rd or so being RED.

Will have to research this one...

Kevin,

To what tach are you referring?

Dan

[Kevin68N71]

Standard non R/T with same cluster:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1968-Dodge-Charger-Original-383-Very-Clean_W0QQitemZ270247515798QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270247515798&#ebayphotohosting

Here's an R/T with the Tic Toc Tach like mine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___HEMI-Numbers-Matching-Govier-Certified-Inspected_W0QQitemZ120268275593QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item120268275593&

Another R/T with Tic Toc Tach

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___XS-RT-440-CHARGER-TIC-TOC-TAC-MAG-500-LOADED-PDB-PS-W-W_W0QQitemZ220243084102QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220243084102&

Here's one more Non R/T with the R/T only tach.  Must be magic.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1968-dodge-charger-project-car-A-C-console-auto-vinyl_W0QQitemZ220241358564QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220241358564&

[Kevin68N71]

Hmmm, this is odd...the tachs I thought all Chargers had was 0 RPM on the left bottom corner, winding up and the last 1/3rd or so being RED.

Will have to research this one...

Kevin,

To what tach are you referring?

Dan

Dan, I am referring to the one I have in my car.  There is a clock in the middle.  The Tach needle starts at the left bottom corner at 0.

I think the ebay seller is mistaken.  I think that is a STOCK panel.  The option would have been a Tic Toc Tach, an option on R/Ts OR standard models.

[472 R/T SE]

The only thing the seller is wrong about is claiming it's an R/T "only" panel.  If this seller is like a lot of them he thinks that clock is a tic toc tach, which in his mind & lots of owners means it's R/T exclusive.
Usually when there's a tach the sellers will claim "R/T only" not knowing...

I'm pretty sure Curtis' point is just that.  Crazy auction results, I'm RICH I tell ya', $$$$$$.

[69*F5*SE]

$775.00   

[PocketThunder]

$775.00   

Are you kidding me?  I'm putting me extra guage cluster on ebay as soon as i get home then! 

[terrible one]

Not even declared working!

[Manfred318]

Wow thats alot of money. I have a cluster in the shop that came out of one of those rare 383 Hemi cars..wonder what I could sell it fer

[BigBlockSam]

 

[dkn1997]

i don't know much about the lesser '68s but i belive the round emblem between tach and speedo is unique to the lesser '68s... 
didn't the actual R/Ts have a R/T specific emblem?.. 

No ....only 68 Coronet R/T's had them.......and my 69

Wow!  Over $700 for an incorrectly painted cluster.....its not even rechromed   People need to do their homework

I got 800 for one a year or so ago.  I calibrated the gauges, refaced them, quartz clock conversion, new signal lenses and gaskets, new brake warning lettering and gasket, and a repro be&A real chrome bezel.  sheesh!!

[68charger383]

Not clear why some cars came with the fratzogs or bullseye per numerous prior threads I've read on the subject. Some people believe the one you have is based on build date of the car: Ex. bullseye before 3/68 fratzog after.

However, the car being a base charger or R/T was not the reason. They both came with either one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,32972.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,44553.0.html

Bull, if your looking for one, talk to Lilwendel. I think he charges that price for a totally rebuilt cluster.

[Manfred318]

I got 800 for one a year or so ago.  I calibrated the gauges, refaced them, quartz clock conversion, new signal lenses and gaskets, new brake warning lettering and gasket, and a repro be&A real chrome bezel.  sheesh!!

That seems pretty reasonable. DK how much would you charge to calibrate a set of guages?

[dkn1997]

No need to charge, my man...I saw on the other thread that you know how to pull the cluster out, so you can do it yourself easy.  I have a sheet floating around somewhere.  all you have to buy are some cheapie resistors from radioshack.  I also bought the set of colored jumper wires they sell.  it's just matter of powering up the cluster through the voltage limiter, then grounding the sending unit studs on each gauge.  when you put a certian ohm resistor in series with your ground wire, you get a specific value on the gauge.  there are holes inthe back with little wheels you turn to make it read right.  very easy......

check the link:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19473.0.html

here are the radioshack part numbers for you to make jumpers with the 10, 23, and 150 ohm values.  obviousely, you wire the 2  75 ohm resistors in series to get 150
Go to Radio Shack and buy these resistors.
271-1101  10 ohm
271-1103  23 ohm
271-1109  150 ohm

from that thread:
Chrysler made a tool for checking gauge calibration. It's basically a can with two wire leads attached to it with a three position rotary switch that selects one of three resistance values.  You could also make up some jumper wires using the proper resistors

The LOW position is 73 ohms
The MIDDLE position is 23 ohms
The HIGH position is 10 ohms

Temperature gauge
The L position should read 120* on the dial
The M position should read 170*~180* on the dial.
The H position should read 250* on the dial.

Oil gauge
The L position should read 0 psi on the dial.
The M position should read about 30 psi on the dial
The H position should read 80 psi on the dial

Fuel gauge
The L position should read empty on the dial
The M position should read just under 1/2 on the dial
The H position should read full on the dial

All the above are plus or minus about 1/16ths of an inch.

Here's how you can check to see if the voltage limiter is working.

Voltage limiters can be tested out of the car with a few jumper wires and a test light.
Hold the limiter with the terminals facing you.
The horizontal terminal should be on the top. The vertical terminal in the middle and the angled one on the bottom

Ground the horizontal terminal. Supply 12v to the vertical terminal.
Touch a 12v test light to the angled terminal. You should get a pulsating light on the test light.
If the light doesn't flash or stays on all the time the limiter is bad.

The limiter does not provide 5v. It provides a pulsating 12v that averages out to 5v.

[Manfred318]

No need to charge, my man...I saw on the other thread that you know how to pull the cluster out, so you can do it yourself easy.  I have a sheet floating around somewhere.  all you have to buy are some cheapie resistors from radioshack.  I also bought the set of colored jumper wires they sell.  it's just matter of powering up the cluster through the voltage limiter, then grounding the sending unit studs on each gauge.  when you put a certain ohm resistor in series with your ground wire, you get a specific value on the gauge.  there are holes in the back with little wheels you turn to make it read right.  very easy......

Cool deal I thought it was more complicated than that, very much appreciated

[bull]

The only thing the seller is wrong about is claiming it's an R/T "only" panel.  If this seller is like a lot of them he thinks that clock is a tic toc tach, which in his mind & lots of owners means it's R/T exclusive.
Usually when there's a tach the sellers will claim "R/T only" not knowing...

I'm pretty sure Curtis' point is just that.  Crazy auction results, I'm RICH I tell ya', $$$$$$.

Not clear why some cars came with the fratzogs or bullseye per numerous prior threads I've read on the subject. Some people believe the one you have is based on build date of the car: Ex. bullseye before 3/68 fratzog after.

However, the car being a base charger or R/T was not the reason. They both came with either one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,32972.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,44553.0.html

Bull, if your looking for one, talk to Lilwendel. I think he charges that price for a totally rebuilt cluster.

I've got one that needs restored and the lower right corner isn't busted off like this R/T one. I talked to Lilwendal about doing mine for me before the end of the year, all I have to do is send it off. I just thought it was funny that this guy was touting it as an R/T-only cluster when they're all the same, R/T or not. I think what Chris said is true, people aren't doing their homework and therefore end up spending $300-$400 more than they need to. The price this guy got is about what a perfectly restored cluster might go for.