Another Amp gauge question....

[Truebelieverone]

 Hello everyone, I'm just getting around to toying with my 70 again and ran across a few electrical problems. My headlights began to flicker on and off at times so I pulled the cluster to examine the switch. What I found was a black wire that exits the back of the switch and goes to the positive side of the amp gauge has been getting hot and it was almost completely burned through by the switch (It was still warm to the touch). The black wire looks as if someone put it there but it goes into the switch through one of the facotry slots. There is some excessive solder in the female blade connector so I'm wondering if this is how it was wired from the factory or if it is rigged up?

[Nacho-RT74]

yes, wired in that way from factory. maybe repaired anyway.

that terminal is very tipical get hot with time because the prong rivet start to loose from switch.

[Truebelieverone]

Ok, thank you. I got some new connectors and soldered them to a new wire. The lights work perfectly now and the switch stays cool, but after reading all the negative stuff about the amp gauge I'm considering getting rid of it. Thanks for the response

[Nacho-RT74]

but after reading all the negative stuff about the amp gauge I'm considering getting rid of it. Thanks for the response

Not really... read this:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[Truebelieverone]

but after reading all the negative stuff about the amp gauge I'm considering getting rid of it. Thanks for the response

Not really... read this:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

Interesting, thanks again . I may be pm'ing you with more questions in the future

[Nacho-RT74]

is allways a weak point of course, but if you know to drive it, will handle perfectly. I made it and never have got by now full read for long time or noticeable peaks to get worried, and that has been with very low batt because once got 4 months without turn it on, and never disconected batt ( my car has been parked for upgrades one year ). My batt is 850 or 900 amps ( dunno remember right now ) SO GET LOT OF TIME TO GET RECHARGED, and still in that way, everything gets fine!!!

[myk]

Ok, thank you. I got some new connectors and soldered them to a new wire. The lights work perfectly now and the switch stays cool, but after reading all the negative stuff about the amp gauge I'm considering getting rid of it.

If you don't do what 'Nacho talks about, with parallel wires and whatnot, definitely eliminate the 'amp gauge or you just might burn your car to the ground.  The easy, lazy fix would be to run a heavy gauge wire from the output of the 'alt to the positive stud on the starter relay.  This way, the majority of the charging current won't be going through that ridiculous setup from the factory.  Your 'amp gauge won't be accurate at that point buy hey-safety first...

[Nacho-RT74]

myk, the power needs are inside not outside, so even the wire to starter relay studs helps ( just when batt got discharged  to run directly to batt instead throught the ammeter ) the demands of power will allways suck from inside by the existing stock wires and original splice