Please Help with a recipe for my 440 build

[wldside]

Hello there,

Although I am a newer member and this is my first post, I have been visiting this forum over the past couple years.  I have found it extremely informative and appreciate all the posts.  I have read many of the posts, but am just looking for something more specific to what I have and where I'm looking to go. 

To give you a little background, I have a 69 Charger that I am in the process of rebuilding.  The resto is a nut and bolt, but far from all original.  I am now to the point that I am starting to focus my attention on the engine, as I have had the rear end and the trans rebuilt already.  I will be the first to admit that I don't know half as much as you all do on this topic, but with your help, I'm learning fast.  At any rate, I am planning to strip the engine down very soon and will need to find a machine shop to go over it (magnaflux the block, hone, poss. bore???), and need some suggestions on what to go with for this build.    My plans for the car are basically street with the possibility of needing to blow some wiseguys doors off.    I want it to sound bada$$ and I don't mind a little lope at idle (just dont want it to sound like it's gonna die on me).  Basically I want people to know that that nasty sounding car can back it up if need be.  Definitely need to run on pump gas.  My original goal was to shoot for the 450- 500 HP mark, but I recently did a little number searching and found that I am the owner of a 1978 440RB HP.  My understanding is that this is a lower compression motor.  So, realistically, I want to be able to get all I can out of it and keep within a budget.  As I'm sure you all can relate, I already have more $$$$ tied up into my ride than I had planned, so I have a goal of going through the engine for around $2000. 

With that said here is the list of what I currently have and would like to utilize (unless I'm discouraged to or if it doesn't go with the ideal build).

1978 440RB HP Engine (Cast Crank)
Headman Headers
Torker II 440 Intake
Edelbrock Carb 1407 750CFM
727 Torqueflite Auto Trans w/ shift kit
3.73 Sure Grip (489 Case)
295 50 R15 Rear tires
Power Steering
Power Drum Brakes

Here's the list of the obvious things that I can think of that I might possibly need to upgrade, but please feel free to add or reccommend to leave stock... Please let me know the combo with the make of the items you reccommend.

Heads
Lifters
Rockers
Push Rods
Cam
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Bearings
Torque Converter (What make and stall?)
Any thing else???

So what recipe can you reccommend?  Where's the best placees to invest my money on this engine to get the best bang for my buck?  What I'm looking for, if you wouldn't mind, is for ideas of what to upgrade and the make and model of the items that you would change to make this a engine to be proud of.  Also, what kind of compression and Hp do you think I would possibly get with using your reccommendations?

I appreciate all those willing to help. 

Thanks,
Dave

[71_U-Code_Charger]

Dave,

Building a 450-500 horse motor on a budget could be a little tough. You can build a real strong motor with just a mild build up, and use much of the parts that you already have, ie crank and rods.  A stock 1967-1970 440 magnum rated at 375 horse is and was plenty enough power to roast your tires and make many people twist their neck to see what's coming when you roar by.  With a change in cam, intake and headers with the start a base 440 mag should get you about 450 hp at the flywheel without breaking the bank.

I'd look at changing your intake to a Eddy RPM Performer or a Holley Street Dominator.  The dual plane is more streetable and will help with vacuum to keep that brake power booster ready at all times.  I've seen them on ebay or at swap meets used for about $100.  Sell yours and recoup some $$$.

Luniti has some good VOODOO cams such as the LUN-60303lk.  This makes power from about 1800 to 6200 rpm.  Or the LUN-60304lk that makes power from 2200 to 6500 rpm.  But, if you go with a bigger cam to make more power you will have to replace your stamp steel rocker arms.  Going over 5500 rpm with your original stuff is only asking for trouble.  Any cam making power above this will require a change in rocker gear.  MP has a good set of iron duct adjustble rockers that's good for higher revs without busting the bank.  Roller rockers are nice but getting a good set can get expensive!  Don't forget the chrome rocker shafts and chrome molly push rods(cup style), too!

Forged cranks are nice, but if you are building a streeter on a budget cast is ok.  Have the rods conditioned as well.  Save some $$$ for other items of importance such as pistions, cam, lifters and machine work! 

Also, do some research and find a good shop that knows Mopars, don't skimp here it could cost you!  Have your block checked to see if there is any core shift.  Again, can't stress the importance of having a good shop!

Running pump gas, premium?  Start by improving your compression ratio...with out going over board.  Like I stated before about 10 to 1 is a good place to start.  What heads your gonna use.  If you use the heads you've got thats additional $$$ in your pocket.  Have the heads pocket ported and gasket matched, as well as a good valve job can make a world of a difference.

What is the size of the primaries of your headers? 

Keith Black has some good inexpensive pistions.  Check out the following link. 

http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=search&mfg=CHRYSLER&EngSize=440&RodLen=6.768

Start the research on finding a good shop.  That should be the first step.

Have your motor checked to see what parts you can use and what parts you can't use is the 2nd step.

Oh, and you machine shop should be able to give you some other ideas on combo's they've run and about how much it will $$$$ you.

Rob

[Rolling_Thunder]

Heads - 440 Source stealth or Edelbrock RPMs
Lifters - Engle
Rockers - Stock
Push Rods - Stock
Cam - Engle K56/K58 110 LSA
Crank - Forged stock
Rods - Forged "LY"
Pistons - aim for 9.5 compression
Bearings - Clevite 77 sets
Torque Converter - 1800-2200rpm  B&M seems to work well

These should put you into the 475hp range and give you an abundance of low end torque (think 400tq @ 1500rpm)

I would get a second opinion on this - These parts should keep you pretty close to your desired budget

[wldside]

Thanks for the two replies that I got.  I kind of hoped to hear a few others chime in as well, please.

To answer 71_U-Code_Charger's (Rob) question I took a look at my Hedman Headers and the nearest I can tell it looks like they measure 1 5/8" ID.  Will this change anything?  Should I look to upgrade these, will the gain be worth the $$$?  Also with the setup you suggested, what stall converter would you reccommend?  Lastly, with having the Heads gone over as you suggested, how do you feel that that compares to the Alum. Eddy's.  Obviously the Eddy's will be superior, but is it worth the extra cash for my particular application?

Thanks,
Dave

[Rolling_Thunder]

1 3/4" headers will not be worth the added $$$ in my opinion

[firefighter3931]

Heads - 440 Source stealth or Edelbrock RPMs
Lifters - Engle
Rockers - Stock
Push Rods - Stock
Cam - Engle K56/K58 110 LSA
Crank - Forged stock
Rods - Forged "LY"
Pistons - aim for 9.5 compression
Bearings - Clevite 77 sets
Torque Converter - 1800-2200rpm  B&M seems to work well

These should put you into the 475hp range and give you an abundance of low end torque (think 400tq @ 1500rpm)

I would get a second opinion on this - These parts should keep you pretty close to your desired budget

That's a pretty good recipe.....i might change the cam depending on the axle ratio and stall speed but otherwise it looks great ! 



Ron