Daytona In Australia! - Chryslers on the Murray 2020

[richRTSE]

Do you know the vin number of the Y2 yellow Daytona that served as a donor for all the front end parts?

Hmmmm..... ....this Y2 'Tona seems to be missing a front clip...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,81792.0.html

[Tim L]

Mopar John, don't know what happend to the Y2 yellow donar car. The front clip came out of Arizona, or so I was told by Tom the NY guy we bought the car from. I did ask the same question in a thread and this is what I was told......

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,68848.0.html

Cheers, Tim

[nascarxx29]

Tom from NY I know well .Never got any detail about how he found or obtained the front clip.But the only Y2 parts front clip donor I could think off was a old newsletter alert about a missing in 79-80 Y2 Hemi Daytona  .There was a missing/stolen from Marvin H FL 426 Daytona recorded in a newsletter.XX29J9B379727

Re: Vintage Charger 500/Daytona & Superbird Pictur [Re: ]
     #878993 - Thu May 06 2004 02:37 PM   Edit     Reply     Quote     Quick Reply    



And this hemi daytona reported stolen back in the day of Mike Nelsons XX29J9B379727 R4 red 4 speed I think it was..The motor turned up in a newsletter while back .Guy was looking for the rest of it to go with that motor


http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=585449&page=13&fpart=31&vc=1


XX29J9B379727   156   oh   hemi   Capital City Dodge Columbus, Ohio   8/26/1969  

[Tim L]

Question. Are the front fender wheel arch opening trims on a Daytona (70 Charger) the same as a 68 Charger?

Here's a few more pics of the work going on....

Thanks in advance, Tim.

[Tim L]

....

[hemigeno]

Question. Are the front fender wheel arch opening trims on a Daytona (70 Charger) the same as a 68 Charger?

'68-70 Chargers used a similar front wheel lip moulding, although the part number changed at least between 1969 and 1970 (I don't have a '68 parts book to check that year's P/N).  The Daytona front wheel lip mouldings are Daytona-specific and very difficult to find.  Totally correct solutions for this problem are rather limited, because the Daytona version is longer and has a different bend/profile at the front lower leg of the moulding.

A couple of years ago I experimented with trying to straighten out that front lower leg of a "regular" Charger wheel lip moulding to mate up with the Daytona fender & valance profile, and this can be done fairly successfully with a metal stretcher.  However, it still leaves the moulding about 3/4" shorter than the originals - and if you square-cut that front bottom edge as were the originals, the difference is closer to a full inch.  THAT'S hard to fix.  More than a few cars are sporting regular Charger mouldings with a relief cut right around the joint between the fender and lower valance.  That allows the moulding to be bent straight to fit the profile (leaves a telltale "V").  If you don't have the option of straightening out that leg with a metal stretcher, a relief cut is about the only way to make the mouldings fit.  Again, using a "regular" Charger moulding however it's straightened out will still leave a little bit of the lower valance showing, but that's a much better option than not having any mouldings at all.

[randr]

cant wait to see this thing finished! more pics!

[bigfastjohn]

   Thanks Hemigeno we really appreciate this help as you are aware we have no other Daytonas to go look at so we are in the dark. We will now make the 68/69 trim fit as you suggested.   Tims Dad John

[randr]

here is my modified moldings...i wish i would have tried the stretching! but even done like this you cannot notice except for the cut, ive heard some people tig welding this ?

[hemigeno]

here is my modified moldings...i wish i would have tried the stretching! but even done like this you cannot notice except for the cut, ive heard some people tig welding this ?

Great photo, randr, as that shows the simplest and most direct fix.  Stretching the metal out to get that last several inches of the moulding "straight" can be done, but takes a little time.  The stainless they used is kinda tough stuff, and the witness/tooling marks from the stretcher can consume a lot of time to polish out as well.  

Below is a picture of my original mouldings, where you can see how it covers the valance and is square-cut at the end.

[Richard Cranium]

Cutting off a small piece out of a junk molding & silicone it behind the V-cutout will help to mask it.

[moparstuart]

Cutting off a small piece out of a junk molding & silicone it behind the V-cutout will help to mask it.

[XS29LA47V21]

Nice discussions, thanks,  Either of you F6 guys have any guidance or ideas towards chasing as close as possible original F6 "correctness" and variations coming with modern paints.  Any paint manufactures to stay away from?  No intention to hijack thread, would like to hear wisdom regarding color on these level cars. 

[maxwellwedge]

Check this original one out

[Tim L]

Don't know if this correct, I fished it off a forum somewhere in the last couple of years....

F6 paint formula for a gallon of dupont croma base
830 J green 1131.3 grams
843 J bright yellow 1414.1 grams
801 J white (HS) 1549.9 grams
807 J black (LS) 1629.1 grams
175k binder 3796.1 grams

and you mix the reducer 4:1

Our paint was matched using a sample from passengers side door jam.

Hope this helps.

How's the 500 coming?

Thanks again for the photos of the front wheels arch trims gentlemen!

Tim.

[XS29LA47V21]

Thanks for the paint mix for ref, dreaming of a "correct" color.  The one little area painted so far is looking great, color seems good, but very bright compared to some other F6 old paint parts.  Regarding the recent 500, by the options, that was clearly a reaction to the holy grail (in my head) which found the national market and into my hands, was looking quite a while for a very rare 500.  I already had a F8 500 which really I need to sell before much happens on the one I just bought.  More specifically and complicated by my relationship skills with my wife.... is I am at the financially dedicated painting stage on my F6 car (general photo scope for color, not aero car).   

[Daytona Guy]

Tim, amazing work!

Dane

[bigfastjohn]

  Ok next question ,are the plates/washers that sit against the underneath of the quarters that the wing studs pass through after the painted sheetmetal.  The pieces that the 4 nuts and washers pull up to, are they meant to be spot welded to the trunk gutter? Tims dad

[maxwellwedge]

Yes. Go to Hemigeno's resto thread....should be some pics in there.

[moparstuart]

Ok next question ,are the plates/washers that sit against the underneath of the quarters that the wing studs pass through after the painted sheetmetal.  The pieces that the 4 nuts and washers pull up to, are they meant to be spot welded to the trunk gutter? Tims dad

maybe do a site search on wing washers  may limit your search  

[bigfastjohn]

We have Hemigeno s car in book form he doesnt appear to remove the washers from the car ,this makes me think they are spot welded to the trunk gutter.  Ours were out and dont have any marks on the edge but the gutter did have a few holes which I thought were rust through and welded them up     John

[Tim L]

"One thing he plans to do is to replicate the burn mark on each of the wing washer spot welds and the other welded areas.  Those weren't painted on the bottom side, and what little overspray they'll get would never have masked the original weld burns"

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48725.msg743935/topicseen.html#msg743935

REPLY #1491          3/4 of the way down the page...

Guess I shouldn't have taken to the, "rust holes" with the oxy afterall Johnny....

[hemigeno]

John / Tim,

Looks like you've already concluded the wing washers were spot-welded to the trunk gutter - and that's correct.  I've only seen one original car that was handled any differently, where the wing washers were attached with smallish carriage bolts... those would have eventually been a source of leaks had that been the normal procedure, which is likely why they went with spot welding instead. 

Initially the wing washers were not removed from my car, but later we decided to pull them out and refinish/protect the topside.  After all that work was done, they were spot-welded back in the same places for effect.

[bigfastjohn]

Thanks Gino good of you to confirm my guess ,it will be done.

[earnie]

any new updates on this car im needin my fix, this car is looking awesome please keep the pics rolling