New disc brake conversion kit doesn't work

[timinator]

I bought a front disc brake conversion kit for my 69 Charger with manual brakes from Stainless Steel. I've bled the system and the pedal is firm. The proportioning valve that came with the kit has been adjusted both ways which doesn't seem to help and it's located between the distribution block and rear brakes as per the instructions. I've cleaned the discs with brake cleaner. When I apply the brakes really hard the car just gradually slows down and eventually stops. The pedal only moves about and inch or so and is firm when I do this. At walking speed I stand on them hard and again is just barely works instead of stopping the car. My 10" drums worked way better! Any ideas or has anybody had this problem before?

[BRS]

I've got the same system on my '69 except I have power brakes. It's doing the same thing, really hard pedal and hard to stop. I've bled the system several times as well as made adjustments to the push rod (going into the master cylinder) with no improvements. The only thing I noticed that was strange was the fluid pressure is weak on the rear brakes. But, the fronts are strong. I'm calling SSBC tomorrow to see if they have had similar troubles.....I'll let you know. I'm thinking there might be a problem with the master cylinder

[NMike]

my guess is that the brakes may need breaking in, or you have the the master plumbed backwards or wrong one. or maybe not

[runningman]

Any updates?  I have heard some people love these and then I hear some complaints.  I have these waiting to install on my car and just curious on the feedback.  Thanks  Matt

[BRS]

I had a brand new booster on my Charger that ended up being bad. Just ordered another one that I should have on the car by the end of the week. I think thats my trouble with the brakes not working. As far as the kit itself, it went on real easy. the only thing I had to do is grind a little on the caliper so it didn't rub the wheel. (And I mean just a little). One of the calipers had a little slag on it from the casting. I'll keep you posted on how it turns out. 

[runningman]

Great, thanks!  Matt

[mikepmcs]

So is the problem from the original post most likely a booster??

v/r
Mike

[timinator]

My kit didn't have a booster. It was a manual brake car to a manual disc kit. I called the tech line and they confirmed everything was installed and working properly. They suspected the problem was the master cylinder since it's the same one they use for the power brake kit. He suggested I try a manual master cylinder from another car of that era that had manual discs. That kind of ticked me off because I spent over a grand for parts that aren't correct for my application. I just got done installing a new master cylinder from a manual disc car and will try it out today when it quits raining. I'll let you know how it goes.

[runningman]

Thanks!  Is there anyone out there that has installed their SSBC kit from the group buy we did a while back??

[timinator]

Well I tried out my new master cylinder. It's a 15/16ths bore for a manual disc car as was suggested by somebody on Moparts. There is "some" improvement but barely noticeable. The manual drums were actually much better that were originally on the car. At this point I think I'm going to give up on the SSBC kit. I've wasted too much time and money to try and get it to work because the bottom line is the car is too unsafe to drive. I'm putting the drums back on with an original style power booster and power brake pedal assembly. My 68 Charger has that setup and it will easily lock the wheels. If anybody has a disc brake setup that actually works GOOD, let me know.

[Musicman]

I've read so many of these threads concerning problems associated with SSBC conversions and a few others as well 

When I converted mine over from a Drum/Drum system to Disc/Drum system, I didn't know one manufactures product from the next, mostly because they all seemed to be comprised of custom made parts. However, I did come across one company advertised in the popular Mopar Rags who's conversion kits were made up almost entirely of off the shelf items that I was very familiar with, so I decided to go with them, safe in the knowledge that these kits will work. I also decided to use this company because the kit bolted right on to my existing spindles. The company was ECI... http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/
The only fly in the ointment with the ECI kit is that the front kit uses 11" rotors with big GM single piston calipers, so obviously not all 14" rims will work with these kits, many will, but some will not. I was using 15" rims so it didn't matter to me anyway. The ECI web site itself is a little sparse as well, but they do have everything available soup to nuts. They only advertise the basic startup kit (shown below) knowing that not everyone wants or needs the entire shooting match, but all accessories are availbale. As always, I would reccomend a phone call before purchasing anything.

At any rate... That's what's on my 67 and they work perfectly (read little to no effort). I did have to modify my kit however, because my Cragar rims require a 3" racing stud. Here are some pic's of the basic kit going together... total cost was $575
(not pictured, but bolting was supplied with the kit... they also through in the hoses as well)

[RECHRGD]

I did the SSB front manual disc conversion a couple of years ago.  I've never been satisfied with the amount of pedal pressure required to bring the car to a halt.  Many people have suggested going to the smaller master cylinder or just going to a booster.  The car does stop better now with a couple of thousand miles on the brakes, but I still don't think I could lock them up.  I'm thinking of trying a 'Brake Pressure Multiplier' by ECI after I get the new cam / head upgrade sorted out.  There are way too many complaints on the SSB disc conversion kits and it doesn't appear that they really give a damn.  Legally, their ass is hanging out there if someone gets hurt or worse because their product does not perform as advertised.    Bob

[timinator]

I did a post on Moparts and someone who had the same problem with SSBC tried a very aggressive pad and said that did the trick. I just ordered some pads from EBC that are supposed to be extremely aggressive. I should have them here and installed by next week. I'll post the results. In the meantime for anybody else thinking about the SSBC kit, I'd suggest try another brand or keep it stock. You're way better off.

[firefighter3931]

The issue with the SSB manual disc conversion is the master cylinder....it is wrong for a 4 piston caliper. 

I am going to try a small bore master on mine....this was recommended by Dr Diff. 

The one i purchased is a remanufactured 73-75 Dart MC for manual disc brakes purchased from Napa.


Ron

[CFMopar]

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

I did this swap... All junk yard / over the counter parts and works amazing. big 11.75 rotors stops great.

[BRS]

Well, got the new booster on and the brakes work great. All fours locking up!

[tuckyman]

I have done several conversions using Mopar parts with great sucess.  I use the F body parts.   The problem  the others are having could be from mounting the calipers wrong. The feed line has to hook up at the bottom and the bleeder at the top in order to get all the air out.

[gordo1968charger]

interesting post! mine are nt quite performing as they should,not much better than the drums to be honest,is the remedy a new booster?mine is a factory power brake car.

[gordo1968charger]

would napa part number nbb503603 work better?

[firefighter3931]

Gordo, here is the master i went with....it has a .937 bore diameter which is what you need for a multi piston caliper. The SSBrakes master has a 1 1/32 bore which is too big unless you have a vacuum assisted booster or are using a single piston caliper. 

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TS&PartNumber=101571&Description=Brake+Master+Cylinder+-+Remfd



Ron

[gordo1968charger]

cheers ron,
did it improve braking?
i m thinking of chucking a new booster on for good measure.
going to florida on friday,so i ll chuck one in my suitcase

[firefighter3931]

cheers ron,
did it improve braking?
i m thinking of chucking a new booster on for good measure.
going to florida on friday,so i ll chuck one in my suitcase

Gordo, i haven't driven it yet....car is still in the "assemble" mode but a friend went with a small bore master on his with a multi-piston caliper (Willwood) and said it was much better. 

I know the large bore Masters 1 1/32 & 1 1/8 don't work well because they are high volume/low(er) pressure. With a 4 piston you need lower volume/higher pressure.


Ron

[gordo1968charger]

$30 dollars is nt a lot of money if it does nt work anyway,
thanks

[gordo1968charger]

i fitted a new booster and master cylinder as ron recommended,working a lot better.all 4 wheels lock up now.however there is a bit of travel before the car starts to stop,
would adjusting the pushrod out a bit remedy this?

[firefighter3931]

i fitted a new booster and master cylinder as ron recommended,working a lot better.all 4 wheels lock up now.however there is a bit of travel before the car starts to stop,
would adjusting the pushrod out a bit remedy this?

If the pedal is travelling before engaging the piston in the mater....then yes the slack in the pushrod should be taken up. 

Make sure there is no air in the system either. 



Ron