I need some help you guys!

[DREDILSKI]

I was able to pry my father's 73 SE out of his hands and into my possesion.  Now I'm sitting back thinking 3 things:

1.  How much money will I need or do I want to spend on the car?

2.  Do I want to go the original route (keep everything original) or should I give it some of my own flavor?

3.  Since I have joined this site I have read posts talking about all kinds of factory engine sizes, colors, fender codes and what they mean, and just about everything else under the sun dealing with chargers.

Now I realize that i don't know much about my new prize piece.  I love the car but I guess I just have some educating of myself to do on it.  If some one has a Chargers for dummies guide I could use it would really be helpful. Any words of wisdom or websites would really help.

P.S.- I live in the MD-DC-VA area,if any one knows a good restoration shop or just someone who knows what they are doing and does good work, please let me know.       

Thanks
DRE

[69charger2002]

rule #1 for chargers for dummies.. on this site we want PICS!!! congrats on getting the car, show us your prize!
trav

[TruckDriver]

Check out my '71 to '74 Charger only website/forum (link below). A lot of the members on my forum hang out here too. There is a lot of stuff that will answer your questions too in different sections as well.

[DREDILSKI]

I just called the shop to see if my wiring harness has come in yet, I'll be going by there soon and I'll take as many pics as possible.

[RallyeMike]

rule #1 for chargers for dummies.. on this site we want PICS!!! congrats on getting the car, show us your prize!
trav

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Pic' s man pic's.

[BigBlockSam]

should I give it some of my own flavor? 

  AH, YEP

[DREDILSKI]

It's been a while but here are some pics.

[DREDILSKI]

It only took a year but I figured out how to post my pics. 


Behind the driver side rear wheel

Rear shot

Behind the passenger rear wheel

[A383Wing]

Ouch!

[DREDILSKI]

In front of the passenger rear wheel

[69bronzeT5]

Damn, that thing needs a lot of help

[rt green]

i've seen worse. they make quarters for those, right?

[69*F5*SE]

Hmmm, I looks like someone already tried some bodywork on her and poorly.  Sorry, no offense..  It will need quite a bit of work. More pics.   

[74Rallye]

I see an opportunity to buy lots of tools. You may want to consider buying a donor car as well. Consider doing as much of the work as you can unless money is not an issue.
Let's see some pics of the engine bay and interior!

[Back N Black]

If you don't have allot of skills, expect to spend around 25 to 30 K to make it nice. 

[ACUDANUT]

 I would use it as a parts car and buy a 72.

[FLG]

If your prepared to spend the cash they make plenty of sheet metal, save her 

[DREDILSKI]

Well I'm currently trying to put togther my plan of action. My dad had a guy doing the body work so it's there getting some here and there work whenever he gets a chance. My first plan of action is to get the engine checked out ( maybe a rebuild ) and to see how solid the rest of the body is( the brake system would be next ). I took some pics today of the engine and I'll post them later. The interior is stripped and does not really have much in it but I do know all the pieces were there when my dad had it. Whatever help or info you guys can lend is greatfully appreciated. I wanted to know what I should or should not use to clean some interior vinyl pieces that I brought home. I don't think I would be able to EVER get rid of the car, even if I never get it totally restored. I love 73s and 74s so the 72 is out of the question.  Thanks for the quote of 25 to 30k, it hurt but thanks all the same. I purchase some JC Whitney quarter skins and I'm waiting for the body guy to tell me if they will do or if I'll need quarters ( I'm going to post those too ).

[RTDaddy]

Dred,
I'm in central Va., and may have the parts to help you out.  PM and we can talk.  I hope the gy doing the body work now is not he guy who did the bodywork in the pics.

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH."

[DREDILSKI]

A look under the hood.

[DREDILSKI]

More pics

[74Rallye]

Wow, I've never seen Holley valve covers. Nice.
Engine bay looks complete. That's always a good start.

[bk72]

you can fix that but it will take time. if i was you i would keep some original and some new   

[Silver R/T]

lots of rust but its fixable. Good thing you've got it before it all rusted away.

[DREDILSKI]

Finally have a update for this post.

So I got it back to my house and out of the hands of the nut who found ever reason in the book not to work on it. Weather permitting, my next step is to strip it down and get it ready for the body shop. Currently the fenders are off, front bumper off, I got the gas tank out, cleaned out most off the trash that can be seen in the pics and next is the engine, dash, and non-essential mechanical parts. I will hold off on pulling the engine and trans until the it warms up. Now I'm just saving up the cash to get it media blasted and patched back up. I have been thinking about purchasing another charger that is in Md not to far from me and use it for parts but I would have no where to put it. What do you guys think, Parts Car VS. Buying them offline, for the bodywork. I'll be able to take more pics and give more progress updates once I unwrap her when the weather stays warm for a solid week.

[404NOTFOUND]

I gotta say I like the Holley valve covers too. Of course it has an Edelbrock carb. Usually, it's the other way around.

[NHCharger]

Still plan on using the JC Witney quarter skins??
Looks like you'll need floor pans.Check out http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?display=home.

[HOTROD]

  Just say no to J.C.W. I learned the hard way , metal too thin and i had to add an inch to it to work !!

[RTDaddy]

Dred,
Go over to "Cars wanted" thread and look at the thread "73 Charger wanted."  The 73 Rally option car pictured there is in Central Va.  74 Rally also has a 73 or 4 SE parts car which would have at least the quarter window inserts that your car is supposed to have, (maybe you have them-did not see in pics).  PM him, he has some parts too.  Good luck.

[ACUDANUT]

J.C.W. ? Really..You must be joking. AMD has the only "good" Panels out there.
What does the frame on this 73/74 Charger look like ?

[djcarguy]

 maybe you could ask and find a member local to you or body man ,to come look car over and idea on cost to fix all that rust and bad body work...


 so is it a long time family heirloom with lots of personal attachment?? it will cost alot to fix rust and paint. do ya have a garage to workin and protect car?  is it running?   with most of rust in back i would not pull eng,trans or dash out of it,,,,,,work around them,unless it has rust in windshield and cowl area?    good luck.dj oregon

[PocketThunder]

maybe you could ask and find a member local to you or body man ,to come look car over and idea on cost to fix all that rust and bad body work...


 so is it a long time family heirloom with lots of personal attachment?? it will cost alot to fix rust and paint. do ya have a garage to workin and protect car?  is it running?   with most of rust in back i would not pull eng,trans or dash out of it,,,,,,work around them,unless it has rust in windshield and cowl area?    good luck.dj oregon

I would first spend money to build a garage to keep it in, then start working on the Charger.   

[HDCharger]

Time and patience, you will get there!  You will have some setbacks along the way but you WILL learn a great deal.  Theren is tons of knowledge right here on this board and most are more than willing to help.  Don't get discouraged, create a plan and go to work.  Dave

[DREDILSKI]

To the untrained eyes of me and my brother, the J C W skin looks pretty good. The nutcase I had doing the body work started to work on the driver's. I don't know what the proper thickness or gauge of metal should be but it looks like it would work.

We are in the process of pulling the engine and tranny today and I will post more pics of the process tonight.

I wish I could build a garage in my yard but we are a little short on space. I have thought about keeping it in a storage unit once I have it blasted and primed but I am still working on the most cost effective way to store the car.

More pics coming soon..........

[DREDILSKI]

@ RTDaddy, Thanks, I have the window inserts. I took them off with the trim and old vinyl top. I couldn't find the 73 Rally car you mentioned but I PM'ed 74Rally.

Has anybody ordered from Auto Body Specialties, Inc.? I notice that they have quarters for my car (AMD does not).

@djcarguy, That's a great idea but one thing I've noticed about this board is that there are only about five members that live anywhere near me. I will be going to a local shop that does resto work and seeing exactly which arm and leg he wants, if not both. The car was given to me by my dad around 2006. Since then it was with a so called body guy who could do the bodywork but it was going to be patch work that I would need to fix later. Instead of patch work, all I got was one excuse after another on why he could not fix the car. Got tired of it and brought it to my house before it got cold last year. Now the county is giving me trouble on having a "dismantled/inoperable" vehicle in my yard. So now my plan of action has been put into fast-forward. I want to get the car down to a rolling chassis so that I can get it media blasted and start working on putting the body back together. Based on what I am seeing while taking everything off of the car, there will be a lot of small area welding needed in random place. (This is where knowing how to weld would come in handy) I got the drivetrain off this weekend and I'll be taking out the dash, cleaning off the firewall, and any other small tasks needing to be done. I'll update with more pics from next week too.......

[DREDILSKI]

How the day started (The before shot)



After the necessary disconnections



The engine and tranny's temporary resting place



The after shot



Where the engine will be until I have it broken down to the block



How can I tell what type of transmission I have?



I'm sure it's not the original but would this match the VIN or something to know if it was?



More Pics to come. All suggestions and pointers are welcome. Thanks in advance guys.   

[DREDILSKI]

 

[Aussie R/T]

lots of work to do there but you are getting there slowly.Hope my kid is as fond of my R/T when he's old enough.lol

[ACUDANUT]

What does the frame look like. Any holes in it ?

[71_Charger_R/T]

I'm sure it's not the original but would this match the VIN or something to know if it was?



More Pics to come. All suggestions and pointers are welcome. Thanks in advance guys.   
[/quote]

Dre,
that picture is a casting I.D.. To find the VIN or partial VIN, look on the other side of the engine (passenger side) about the middle  of the pan rail..... you will see a "stamped" number not "cast" this will be the VIN. Like this................


I'm not as well versed in the small blocks, but I think the casting number you have pictured is for a 1975-1980 block. (not sure about that so don't take that for fact.)

[NHCharger]

Has anybody ordered from Auto Body Specialties, Inc.? I notice that they have quarters for my car (AMD does not).

Yes. I have ordered sheetmetal for two Chargers and a few other cars. They have great customer service. They carry a lot of other parts besides sheetmetal.

[DREDILSKI]

Thanks for the info folks. 

Hopefully I will be able to use it in the near future. I spoke to the county and faxed them a letter to request a extension, waiting for a reply. While removing all of the wiring, dash, and other items off of the firewall, I realized something. I started a full resto and didn't even know it. Although my plan is to cut as many corners as possible, to save a buck,  I want the car done right. One reason is I don't want to have to deal with BS coming up in the future that I could have fixed during this process and I want it to be able to make the trip to GA so my pops can check it out and spin some tires.

I have had numerous conversation with a coworker regarding "media-blast or not to media-blast". I was under the impression that if I blast the entire car now and fix the holes, outside and inside, seal it and prime it, then I won't have to worry about any rust for maybe ten years. He is telling me that I don't need to blast the entire car but cut out what needs to be cut and put some rust-stop on whatever rust we find. What do you guys think would work best? Achieve the results I'm looking for?

More pics and questions to come.............

[snagm z]

I live 15 minutes north of baltimore. I think I know alot about 71-74 chargers or is it I  know alot about shit and I buy alot of 71-74 chargers. I can never remember which.

[DREDILSKI]

More body pics.......












 

[DREDILSKI]

Is this how the rear windows are suppose to look? Looks like the piece was patched in.     

[ACUDANUT]

Yep and then the Factory hides it with a vinyl roof.

[AirborneSilva]

Looks like you are doing a good job, keep the pics coming 

[terrible one]

Glad to see you are making progress. That "patch" on the door is NASTY

[AirborneSilva]

Glad to see you are making progress. That "patch" on the door is NASTY

Not ranking on the car but the body panel is not right either.  I would ditch that panel, get one from AMD and have a real pro put it on......   Just a thought 

[Indygenerallee]

Yes please ditch that JC Whitney quarter panel I have seen them in person before and the metal is very pliable I have a feeling the heat from the filler would warp it!!! Looks like a project for sure!

[ACUDANUT]

What does the frame look like.? Any rust holes ?

[DREDILSKI]

Acudanut..... I looked at the frame as best I could and I don't see anything that looks too bad. I'm not really sure what I'm looking for but using common sense, It looks ok. I'll post some pics to be sure. The K-frame does look pretty weak in maybe two spots where it bolts up to the car. My brother pointed them out when we pulled the engine and he said if I was to not change them out, the torque from the engine may cause it to break under pressure. A new one is in the plans somewhere down the road.

I had two guys from a local body shop in frederick come and check the car out today. They said they could give a estimate over the phone and all the said was anywhere from 5k to 8k in labor in person,not including parts. I put the wheels on the car and all the body parts back on. I called the county inspector to come out and inspect the property and I'm hoping that she just tells me to tag the car and I'm good. The quote the two guys gave me made me want to do as much myself as possible.

They suggested that i buy the two quarters, both doors and a trunk lid to cut back on the labor costs. One guy, Danny, said based on how the areas around the windshield look, they will probably have to replace the metal under the windsheild as well.

What do you guys think? I plan on dealing with the county before anything else.

Thanks,
DRE   

[Indygenerallee]

Truthfully, I would find another good rust free shell and transfer the usable parts off this one, You would have a lot less money involved that route especially if you are wanting to keep the car for some time.

[DREDILSKI]

I mentioned this to my brother on Sunday. The main reason I want to restore THIS car is because dad passed it to me. Maybe it would have cost way more than he was willing to put into it but he knew how much I loved it. The thought has crossed my mind that after I fix the body and replace the upholstery, it wont be the same. With the ratted and tattered brown cloth seats that I remember, with house carpets on the floors, but it would be the exact car I road in as a kid. If I had the property to do so, I would buy a 73 to drive now and still restore this one. It took a very long time to pry it out of dad's possession and I would hate to turn it into a parts car.


Another issue I was thinking about is finding a SOLID 73 SE within a few hundred miles of me. That's going to take a lot of patience and playing the waiting game. While I'm waiting to find one, saving up for it, I could have the body work done and move on to the engine. I watched a beautiful gray 73 SE sell on ebay last year for about 8,700. It was in NC and I was in the bidding war but got out bid at the last second. I guess I'll keep on saving and see what happens.

Thanks for the advise Indy.....

DRE   
 

[AirborneSilva]

Dre, I think what some are trying to say is that you should get another Charger and use it as a parts car.  I don't believe that they are saying you should use the Charger you got from your Dad as the parts car. 

[DREDILSKI]

What do you guys think? Doesn't look like anything special but it is close. What is it worth?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-DODGE-CHARGER-SE-SURVIVOR-64K-ACTUAL-MILES-ORIGINAL-COLORADO-CAR-/120894139378?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1c25da2bf2

[Indygenerallee]

Looks pretty clean the one pic of the driver rear wheel opening the bodyline that surrounds the wheelhouse looks a little faint in places? Is it just me? could have some filler but it looks pretty original to me. What it's worth? I would say at least $4,500.

[DREDILSKI]

Based on what I've seen in the past and the amount of days left, I'm guessing it will be between 6k - 7k. A little over 4k with 9 days left, it might hit 10k.

[AirborneSilva]

Yeah I'd say it will go for 6K easy, it's in really good shape, just hop in and drive   

[DREDILSKI]

[DREDILSKI]

Bidding will end in about 30 mins and it's $100 away from 10K. I guess thats what a survivor 73 SE is going for these days. I think I'd be a lot more comfortable putting that dough into what I have now. I can customize to my heart's delight and still keep the sentimental value. Nice car but for 10K, they can have it.

[DREDILSKI]

WP29:
Dodge Coronet,Charger
Premium
2 Door Sports Hardtop

G3A: 318 150HP(net) or 170HP(net) 1-2BBL 8 CYL
1973
Lynch Road, MI, USA

115284:   Sequence number

E44:    318 cid 2 barrel V8 230hp
D34:    Light Duty Automatic Transmission
JY9:    Dark Gold Poly Exterior Color
E6X9:    Trim - Unknown, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Black
TX9:    Black Diamond Int. Door Frames
918:    Build Date: September 18
065908:   Order number

V1X:    Full Vinyl Top, Black
U:    USA Specifications
H51:    Air Conditioning with Heater

26:    26in Radiator
G11:    Tinted Glass (all)

[ACUDANUT]

That green Charger is a Fake.  That car originally had a 120 mph speedo. NOT 150.

[DREDILSKI]

Based on what? Not the fender tag above I hope cause thats mine.

[ACUDANUT]

In 1973 all Chryslers car came with a 120 speedo.  Gone were the 150 speedo's.

[DREDILSKI]

So I'm getting closer to getting the bodywork started on my baby. I'm moving to a new house with more yard space and a driveway from the street to the back fence. In the backyard, at the end of the driveway is a nice sized shed with a 2-car carport which I'll probably convert to a garage later on down the road. Now that I'll have room to do with what I want, I can learn how to cut and weld whatever needs to be replaced on the car. My first step with be to have the car media blasted and sealed/primed.

I'm still in need of help of course, so my questions are:

#1-Since the car will still be "outside" and affected by the elements, what should I prime/seal it with?
#2-I plan on getting a compressor and tools to do bodywork on the car, what should I be looking for? (Grinder, cutting wheel, etc.)
#3-What MIG welder should I look for to do a decent job?

I'll be looking to find most of the tools on craigslist, ebay or pawn shops to save as much coin as possible. If any of you guys have tools your selling or willing to part with and your near the DC/MD/VA area, PM me.

I'm sure I'll have more questions to come, thanks for the help in advanced.    

[JB400]

Epoxy primer is one of the best.



As far as mig welders, I here 220 are the best.  Dunno, I bought a 110 and haven't tried it yet.  I'm still a rookie when it comes to welding.  You need to be careful about buying used tools.  Most people sell their worn out stuff or because it's junk.

[skip68]

A nice lincoln 130-140A 120v wirefeed will work just fine.  I had one and now I've got a miller 140 and love it.   Practice on some old junk fender or door panels and get the feel of it.     Pawn shops are a great place for tools most the time.      

[DREDILSKI]

How about the compressor? I would like to find one that I could eventually do some painting with.
What size tank, PSI, HP, amp or wattage, etc.?

What about this one...

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/3433995741.html

[DREDILSKI]

Looks like I can get a deal worked out with my company on a MIG welder just not sure which on to choose. My options are:
MILLERMATIC 180 with Auto-SetTM
MILLERMATIC ® 212
MILLERMATIC® 252

[VegasCharger]

Hello DRE. Well I've read your story and I like your enthusiam about restoring a classic with sentimental value. It's a shame that car is in rough shape because I've been trying to sell my '73 SE to fund my '68 Charger. The '73 is totally rust free and was considering parting it out even though it's a complete running car. I live way on the other side of country in Las Vegas, NV. Shipping would be costly but you'll have cost one way or another. I can sell it as a shell or complete. Heck I was also considering cutting the quarters because no one sells complete full quarters for those cars (at least I don't think they do).  Not sure how far you are along with the body work if this may suit your needs. And I'm not trying to use your thread to advertise my car for sale, I am in NO desperate need to sell my car. Just trying to see if this would help you. Either way good luck on your project. Love those '73 SE's (especially triple black) but it's time for me to go with my all time dream car, 1968 Charger.

- Bryan

[PocketThunder]

Hello DRE. Well I've read your story and I like your enthusiam about restoring a classic with sentimental value. It's a shame that car is in rough shape because I've been trying to sell my '73 SE to fund my '68 Charger. The '73 is totally rust free and was considering parting it out even though it's a complete running car. I live way on the other side of country in Las Vegas, NV. Shipping would be costly but you'll have cost one way or another. I can sell it as a shell or complete. Heck I was also considering cutting the quarters because no one sells complete full quarters for those cars (at least I don't think they do).  Not sure how far you are along with the body work if this may suit your needs. And I'm not trying to use your thread to advertise my car for sale, I am in NO desperate need to sell my car. Just trying to see if this would help you. Either way good luck on your project. Love those '73 SE's (especially triple black) but it's time for me to go with my all time dream car, 1968 Charger.

- Bryan

   DRE, I was you 10-15 years ago, I had the passion to fix up a car because it was "family", then after years and years of rust repair and endless hours of work, I could have just bought a running Charger for the same amount of money I had stuck into this one.  In the end, it was a learning experience that maybe every guy needs to go through, but if I can add my 2 cents,  I would suggest you make a road trip out west and find another car to use.  I took that big leap of faith when I bought my current Charger and I'll never buy another rust bucket ever again.   

[ACUDANUT]

 I would be calling Vegas. 

[ralley72]

In 1973 all Chryslers car came with a 120 speedo.  Gone were the 150 speedo's.

Some did, My 73 Rallye Charger and my 73 Road Runner both came from the factory with the 150 speedo. I also had another 73 Road Runner with a 318 that had the 150 speedo.

Mike

[DREDILSKI]

Vegas- I sent u a pm. Send me some info and pics on the car.

[PocketThunder]

Vegas- I sent u a pm. Send me some info and pics on the car.

Atta boy!