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Is it going to be impossible to add vinyl top trim studs back to a 73?

Started by WH23G3G, May 05, 2008, 10:10:22 PM

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WH23G3G

The previous owner grinded down all vinyl top trim studs and just painted my 73 blue. Mine had the one year only, I think, Halo roof. I'd like to paint it back the original color and add the vinyl top back if it's not going to be impossible to do. I don't know where you could get the nails for the vinyl top trim and how a body shop would weld such a small stud in. Is it going to be difficult for a body shop to do? Where do you get the new studs?

kab69440

Pop rivets are little aluminum miracles in siutuations like this...
Imagination was given to man to compensate him for what he is not;  a sense of humor to console him for what he is.      Francis Bacon

WANT TO BUY:
Looking for a CD by  'The Sub-Mersians'  entitled "Raw Love Songs From My Garage To Your Bedroom"

Also, any of the various surf-revival compilation albums this band has contributed to.
Thank you,    Kenny

Jesus drove a Honda. He wasn't proud of it, though...
John 12: 49     "...for I did not speak of my own Accord."

Charged

Quote from: kab69440 on May 06, 2008, 12:49:29 AM
Pop rivets are little aluminum miracles in siutuations like this...

Are you certain of this or is it merely assumed?

I ask this because the OEM studs are shaped as a cylinder with a disk sitting on top. All the pop rivets Ive seen are cylindrical. Their two different shapes, how could they interchange? Whats the process you have for attachment to the trim? I assume that the disk is the attachment mechanisim but the shaft just lifts it up into place, so if you lack the disk...

The only thing I could think of is to JB Weld them back on. I would remove them from a junkyard car by using a metal cutting tool (ex. nibbler, shear, cutoff wheel) to remove a square inch or so of the roof with the stud remaining in the center, then slowly grind the excess metal (roof) away so as not to heat warp or shorten the stud. I would NOT just cut the stud of the roof as you would defiently shorten it.

Charger1973

Why not drill a hole (if there isnt one already), and stick a nail through it with the right sized head, weld it the right length and cut off the extra from the bottom? 

RD

Quote from: Charger1973 on May 06, 2008, 09:23:00 PM
Why not drill a hole (if there isnt one already), and stick a nail through it with the right sized head, weld it the right length and cut off the extra from the bottom?

bingo!
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

Charger-Bodie

You can actually buy screw studs for just that purpose.

Go to a body shop supply store and tell them what you are looking for and they should be able to help.

The screws Im talking about will look just like the real studs when the are installed aside from having a very small phillips in the head, they have a shoulder and everything.


here is a link to some on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964-FORD-MUSTANG-TORINO-GALAXIE-Molding-Clips-Studs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34204QQihZ022QQitemZ350057510507QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Charger1973 on May 06, 2008, 09:23:00 PM
Why not drill a hole (if there isnt one already), and stick a nail through it with the right sized head, weld it the right length and cut off the extra from the bottom? 

I thought that but how do you attach ? some areas are not accesible from backside
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Charger1973

I dont know never looked that far into it.  I have thought about adding a canopy top to mine, im still contemplating it...  I even picked up the trim for it a while back just incase I ever decide to do it. 

WH23G3G

So those screw studs would work for this purpose? Would you prep the roof and get it primed or painted before you tried to install these screw studs? Or would you put them on now and then get it painted? I've still got to find all the rear halo vinyl stuff. I have the two main sides and one quarter panel corner.

Charger74SE

www.mrgusa.com also has them listed in the Fastener Section under Windshield Mould Clips very last page. Part number (FA3039A) is what I used on my 74 for the rear glass and rocker panel trim.
Only problem is they have a $10 dollar minimum order.



2012 Charger SE
1974 Charger SE
USAF and A&P mechanic retired.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Charger74SE on May 07, 2008, 06:39:18 AM
www.mrgusa.com also has them listed in the Fastener Section under Windshield Mould Clips very last page. Part number (FA3039A) is what I used on my 74 for the rear glass and rocker panel trim.
Only problem is they have a $10 dollar minimum order.

NOW I LIKE THOSE!!!!

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

WH23G3G

If I have all the halo trim will the body shop be able to determine where the studs will need to go? Or do I need to get measurements from a Halo vinyl top car?

Charger74SE

Quote from: WH23G3G on May 07, 2008, 05:44:48 PM
If I have all the halo trim will the body shop be able to determine where the studs will need to go? Or do I need to get measurements from a Halo vinyl top car?
Sand off the paint where the trim is suppose to go. The studs are made of a slightly harder metal so you should be able to see small circle discolorations where they use to be, about 7 to 8 inches apart. Just drill a new hole next to where the old stud was located.



2012 Charger SE
1974 Charger SE
USAF and A&P mechanic retired.

2harleyriders

If you want to spend the money you can purchase a stud welder from eastwood and they sell the small studs for trim.  you load the gun and spot weld them on.
Thats how I roll.

onebadmopar

they make a stud gun kit for them i have one came with dent pulling rods  and those little ( nipples) used to hold clips on i,d mark them where ya want them and take it a local body shop i,d bet they would put them onfor you heck if ya close to alabama i,ll do it

Todd Wilson

Quote from: onebadmopar on May 07, 2008, 07:52:33 PM
they make a stud gun kit for them i have one came with dent pulling rods  and those little ( nipples) used to hold clips on i,d mark them where ya want them and take it a local body shop i,d bet they would put them onfor you heck if ya close to alabama i,ll do it


Thats what I was gonna suggest! The stud gun variety. If he is gonna sand the car down for a repaint I would get the vinyl top trim location and details all figured out and installed before the new paint goes on. Then take the trim back off and head to paint. Do all this at bare metal so you wont worry about scratchs  and if something isnt right you can zip the stud off and adjust its position. Putting the vinyl top trim back on takes time and you got to be careful to avoid scratching paint. Get this all figured out first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Then paint the entire car including the roof. Put the vinyl top and trim on at the end.


Todd


WH23G3G

Should there be studs for the side vinyl top molding? I've got one side of the quarter panel stripped down to see if I could find out where the studs had been covered up at and all I see is the original paint. The previous owner just scratched the original bronze paint and shot over a light blue paint job. I'm not seeing any signs of a stud and I've gotten from the middle of the quarter window down to the body line. So I should've passed the studs if they were there.

Nacho-RT74

studs are everywhere around, and a pair of holes to screws too to hold the corner on C pillar.... also some fasteners with nut on backside
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Corellian Corvette

I love this site! I'm actually in need of those exact screws to fix some of the mounting studs in my buick window! Just ordered 2 sets to be safe!

71_Charger_R/T

If you are looking to go back to factory original, This is what you want.......

The Stud



Packet of studs


Uni-Spotter Stud Gun

Charger74SE

That would of worked perfect on my quarter skin replacement panels, but I don't think he wants to peel back his roof skin for that.



2012 Charger SE
1974 Charger SE
USAF and A&P mechanic retired.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: 71_Charger_R/T on May 29, 2008, 07:10:37 PM
If you are looking to go back to factory original, This is what you want.......

The Stud



Packet of studs


Uni-Spotter Stud Gun


will be great for a shop but I don't think for use just once... how much is the welding gun ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

71_Charger_R/T

Quote from: Charger74SE on May 29, 2008, 08:20:15 PM
That would of worked perfect on my quarter skin replacement panels, but I don't think he wants to peel back his roof skin for that.

No need to peel back a roof skin... Or do you mean vinyl ?  All you need is about a 3/4" scratch of bare metal to weld on the stud, the heat is minimal so you wouldn't need to pull back the vinyl more than an inch or so to get these on. (if the vinyl is already installed)

As for Nacho's Question..... They are worth it if you do any kind of bodywork. You can shrink metal with it or weld studs (Longer ones) to pull dents with or weld the molding studs as well. The gun kits can be purchased from about $200.00 to $600.00 depending on the level of duty you want.  If you go to a body shop that has a stud gun and ask them to do it for you they would probably charge you near $200.00 just for labor unless you are in pretty tight with them. So by purchasing the gun you have it at the ready for future use in dent removal if you should need it. My philosophy is... Any good reason to buy a new tool is a beautiful thing!  :Twocents:

Nacho-RT74

yeah you could be right, but better if a couple of friends shares the charge LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html