daytona

[daytonalo]

need feedback on stinger daytona kit

[BigBlockSam]

Howdy
  i'm happy with my stinger nose but  they haven't finished making the light buckets yet but i'm not ready to mount the nose yet. i'm working on the rear window plug and wing now. i don't know about there wing looks kinda funky on there website. i'm using an aluminum wing. the good think about stinger is that there the cheapest and the fastest to deliver there nose. Peace

[daytonalo]

I got a call from artie last week and he's finished with the headlight buckets. Why did you go with a steel wing versus stinger wing. Also im using a vega hatch , I have it roughed on the car , give me sometips please. Larry O

[hotrod98]

I've pretty much decided to go with the dayclona nose. It's made with marine grade resin which holds up much better than regular resins. If you think about how well boats are made, it makes sense. I'm going to sell a few project cars that I have around here and bite the bullet and buy the good stuff. I plan to keep the car pretty much for the rest of my life so I want to make sure that it holds up. That's not really all that long though, since I'm almost 50 now.    I've gone the cheap route before and always ended up regretting it. I'll use my aluminum wing and the daytona plug. I'm just waiting for Rene to work out all of the bugs first.

[BigBlockSam]

hey
i'm so busy with work that i haven't been able to work on the daytona. what i can tell you is that you have to remove material from the back of the vega plug or notch the sail panels on your car to get the vega hatch in. i bought my 69 charger just to do the daytona thing . my sail panels had lots of rust so i cut it out and the plug fell rite in. it doesnt go all the way up either . you have to weld a peice of metal in on top. here is a pic that Dane gave me of his car . to help me with my instalation. Rene

[Blown70]

Well one of these years I will hopefull test a stinger wing for speed.... Not too expensive it I shred it I can always get another....

[2fast4u]

   Hey Sam!  Is that rear window plug supposed to look like that at the bottom?

  I'm kinda confused as to why it looks like it's curved back up! 

2fast

PS....I would still like those pictures again of the black Daytona....sorry about the first time you sent them!

[BigBlockSam]

thats Dane's car. i don't know why it's bent back like that. ya gotta remember, building a daytona replica  is not a science. it can be done in many differant ways.

i'll send you those pics again tomorrow. Peace

[hotrod98]

And I don't think that's one of them.

[Old Moparz]

I almost went to Florida before Labor Day to pick up a nose cone & other parts from Artie at Stinger. I was going to go with my wife & daughter, make a mini vacation out of it, & maybe see an aunt I haven't seen in a long time. The trip was planned for the same weekend that hurricane Katrina hit, so I decided to cancel & order it to have it shipped. Dane passed the Stinger name onto me last year & said the product was very good for the money & is shipped very quickly. Well, I didn't get around to calling Stinger yet, & a friend of mine convinced me to call this semi-local guy who was bailing out of his Daytona replica project & selling just about all the parts needed to do the conversion. It's all Ted Janak's parts, & they all look very good, including the nose cone.

The list of parts I got includes:

Nose cone
Z Brackets
Latch tray
Head light doors
Head light buckets
Head light pivots
Head light mounting plates
Lower front spoiler
Wing with mounting studs
Wing washers
Window plug
One fender scoop (Only one, don't know why?)

I just picked all this stuff up Tuesday night in New Jersey. I ended up getting all of it for roughly the same as what I would have paid by getting Stinger's parts, along with the rest of the items that stinger doesn't make from Ted Janak. Including the shipping & packaging fees. The biggest plus is that I didn't have to wait for the parts to be made & didn't risk having them damaged by the delivery gorillas.

I don't think I'll use the window plug   because of the fiberglass & steel differences & may sell it down the road. I also have an aluminum wing I'd rather use, but since the fiberglass one had the studs & holes in it, I'll probably use it as a template to mock up the aluminum one on the car. The few things I still need will be the lower front valance, one fender scoop, the grille & the grille frame.

I'm somewhat disappointed I'm not buying Stinger's parts since I had spoke to, & emailed Artie. He seems okay & gave me a good price, but by procrastinating the placing of my order, I lucked out.

[chargervert]

I have two Dayclona nosecones,they have twice the matting,and are made with marine grade matting and resin.Just pick up one of Mikes cones,and you will feel the difference! I also have Dayclonas steel internals,and they fit and function as original.As most of you know Mike is a friend of mine,and I don't want to get into the big pissing match over the steel verses fiberglass thing again,I'm just offering some info on how Mikes parts fit,and how there made.I know everybodys budget varies! I'm glad to see more people stepping up to make parts for these cars.

[Daytona Guy]

I cut the bottom of the Vega lid off and welded it on to the bottom edge because the radius was that same as the Daytona. Then I bent up my own drip rail and welded it on to that. You do not have to cut all of the back off the Vega, you need it for reinforcement,   just down the side of the window and it slides right in with little or no change to the sail panels.

As for nose cones. Almost everyone uses marine grade. When I made my own noses it is actually less expensive and any good quality boat shop will sell it to you for carry out. Stinger uses the same, and is less expensive (650.00) but keep in mind that I would fit each cone to your front end. I alter every nose I get to make it a perfect match. I add and reshape the sides to match the top of the fender and the bottom of the valance. The originals do not match well either, but it seems when you do a clone people want to pick it a part and so I just make them better. I have only seen the Dayclona nose on the internet, but what I can see, they have a good shaped nose.

Stingers wings, that last I checked, are one piece. That may have changed.

Here is that same car = After (above)

[Old Moparz]

I'm glad to see more people stepping up to make parts for these cars.

Hey Chargervert,

Are the headlight related parts inside the cone from Dayclona made from steel? I know the package of parts I just got have all of these internals in glass, but if it doesn't work so good I'd rather try the metal. I actually wanted to use metal from the beginning, but since they came with the package I may try it out.

Thanks, Bob

[Daytona Guy]

Old Moparz, could you measure the length of the horizontal piece of the wing. Or does someone know how long it is?

[chargervert]

Hey old Mopars,all of Mikes internals are made from steel,except the headlight doors,which were fiberglass from the factory,his Z bars are steel,the four piece headlight buckets are steel,the headlight pivots are steel too.He offers the vacuum operated mechanisms,as original,and he offers a motorized electric set up,to actuate the headlights.All of the hardware that is required to mount the buckets into the nosecone,as well as the springs,and the adjustable stops for the headlight doors,are as original,and available from Dayclona! I also recomend the steel latch tray,and the steel Z bars,because the assembled nose is a fairly heavy peice,and those parts are what attach the nosecone to the car(as well as the two mounting brackets that bolt to the Z bars,and the frame of the vehicle.All of Mikes steel parts are NOS quality,and are acurate for an original car,or for a correct looking,and functioning clone.I know Mikes stuff isnt the cheapest stuff out there,but its all made by hand,and you wouldn't beleve the time it takes him to make this stuff! If you want your lights to work correctly this is the way to go!

[chargervert]

Hey Bob,if you plan on having your wingcar for a long time,ask Dane to put you on his list for one of his wings,but keep in mind there a bit heavier than the originals,so I would use Dayclonas wing washers,and braces,or you can get the braces from Hot Rod 98! good luck! PETE

[BigBlockSam]

Hey Dane the measurement your looking for is 57 3/8 

[Old Moparz]

Old Moparz, could you measure the length of the horizontal piece of the wing. Or does someone know how long it is?

Dane, Do you want the measurement off the aluminum wing you sent to me, or the fiberglass one from Ted Janak? I can get both if you want to compare.

Hey old Mopars,all of Mikes internals are made from steel,except the headlight doors,which were fiberglass from the factory,his Z bars are steel,the four piece headlight buckets are steel,the headlight pivots are steel too.He offers the vacuum operated mechanisms,as original,and he offers a motorized electric set up,to actuate the headlights.All of the hardware that is required to mount the buckets into the nosecone,as well as the springs,and the adjustable stops for the headlight doors,are as original,and available from Dayclona! I also recomend the steel latch tray,and the steel Z bars,because the assembled nose is a fairly heavy peice,and those parts are what attach the nosecone to the car(as well as the two mounting brackets that bolt to the Z bars,and the frame of the vehicle.All of Mikes steel parts are NOS quality,and are acurate for an original car,or for a correct looking,and functioning clone.I know Mikes stuff isnt the cheapest stuff out there,but its all made by hand,and you wouldn't beleve the time it takes him to make this stuff! If you want your lights to work correctly this is the way to go!

Thanks, I had thought I remembered it being steel. I will make a list of all the pieces I will need & go from there. Whatever parts I have in glass I'll try first since I already have them, like the Z brackets & such. I've seen a few cars that use them & they are stronger than I had expected once it's all assembled. If I don't like it, I'll go with steel. It's good to know they have all the headlight motor parts too.

Bob

[06DaytonaR/T]

hEY Daytona can anyone get in on this discussion.   I just got a new 2006 daytona it has alot of go power.   I think if it is ok that we now talk of the new charger and the new daytona.   I have a couple of questions.   Do you think this is OK or will all the old school guys get mad.

[Shakey]

hEY Daytona can anyone get in on this discussion.   I just got a new 2006 daytona it has alot of go power.   I think if it is ok that we now talk of the new charger and the new daytona.   I have a couple of questions.   Do you think this is OK or will all the old school guys get mad.

Start a new topic with your questions, in the appropriate section of the board.

Keep in mind these guys are building replicas of the Daytona that was built 35 years ago and the only thing it will have in common with your car is the name.

[hotrod98]

This thread had absolutely nothing to do with an 06 Daytona...nothing. Now go out and buy a 69 or 70 charger and then gather up the parts to build a clone of a real daytona and then reply to these threads. We'll welcome you with open arms, so to speak.
BTW, I own a daytona ram pickup and when I want to talk about daytona ram pickups I go to rumblebee.org.
There's bound to be a website for 4 door chargers somewhere.

[chargervert]

Hey Bob,I would think twice about using those glass Z bars,every car that I have seen that has them,has been cracked,split,and patched over,with sheets of fiberglass matting to try to keep the nosecone from falling off the car.I have also seen some of the most creative uses of threaded rod and turn buckles,to aid in the support of the cone.The headlight pivots are another area where I recommend using the steel peices.Those glass pivots will never withstand the stresses of continous headlight operation.You can ask Dane for a second opinion on this,because I have discussed this with him before.I think if you are going to  go through all of the labor,and expense,to build your clone,than I would spend a little more and anti  up for some steel pivots and Z bars.One guy told me he used screen door hardware to make those glass peices function.I don't want turn buckles,threaded rod and screen door parts on my Daytona!It will be alot easier to install those steel parts now,than it will be to do it after the cone is painted and on the car!Just my advise! I have been both routes!I guess I was tired when I read your thread the other night,I didn't notice that you aready had one of Danes wings.As far as I know Dayclona is the only vendor making steel wing washers,I recommend them also,and Dayclona,and Hot Rod 98 are offering the braces.good lluck with your project PETE

[hotrod98]

chargervert,
Actually, I just made up 11 sets of the braces as a group buy here on d.c.. Later, when I get some extra time, I might consider building a few sets to help the guys out.  For right now, though, I've got way too many things going on. Both Dayclona and Janek sell them.

BTW, I agree with your thinking on the z braces and headlamp buckets. Any time that you can use steel instead of fiberglass it's a no brainer.
I really don't like having to rework stuff that I've already finished. I think that even though they're pretty expensive, I'm going to save up and buy the steel parts. I can certainly see the buckets deteriorating over time due to the vibrations and from the operation of opening and closing the headlamps as well.
I'm hoping to be able to buy one of the first superbird noses from Mike at Dayclona as well for my wife's car.

hotrod98

[chargervert]

Mike is currently repairing an original Superbird cone to make the mold from.Thats the problem with the mold making process,you have to have a good peice to mold it from.He had to do extensive repairs to both the Daytona,and Superbird original cones,and then fit them to the cars to check them for fit,then a mold can be constructed.I also forgot to tell Bob,that Mike also has an acurate grill frame,and grille screen available, also,and he can make you that scoop,that you are missing.You may have to sand the opening on your Janak cone a little bit,because Mike made his grill frame to fit the original cone,and I don't know if the thickness of the fiberglass is going to be a factor on the Janak cone.

[wingcars6970]

Welcome to the board daytonalo.You can come and reference off my daytona when you in my area .For help with your replica build up .I used the storm cylinder bracket as its hollow in the center and fits flush to the pivot bracket.And its black and cant be seen. And in time I thought   it would egg out the fiberglass connection point and decided on my own this is what I was going to try.   So to the reference made by charger vert not wanting to add any non factory pieces in a nose turnbuckles reinforcements etc etc. .I heard from another wing car buddywith a real daytona that was having line up and fitting problems with all factory metal parts that had the headlight doors was below the nose surface.And was recommended by Mike G to do as they have done .Use peel on stick on furniture dot size pads.Which are not found on the factory parts list as well as turn buckles etc mentioned previously.And you do need to have a good wingcar nose core for the mold .My friend had access and used a nos one right out of the box for his daytona nose mold .I wondered if it would have been any different tollerances..As Dane mentioned everyone he does requires massages to fit .They usually dont fit out of the box so as the chargervert remark about the grille opening not compatable with there frames.Mike made his grill frame to fit the original cone,and I don't know if the thickness of the fiberglass is going to be a factor on the Janak cone.

.Even using several different 70 charger fender will yield better results in my opinion as they vary from the factory   another thought is what difference would be in a lay up for a part that was taken from a clean parts car that was prevoiusly bolted up or one thats currently being reworked for a mold.As to one nos out of the box never mounted .In my opinion it should be mounted and molded on the car and whatever stresses excerted on it.As with the daytona when the factory butted up those zbars againist the under side of the nose and things were bolted and pulled down in place by the latchtray etc you do get a slight bulge out effect in my opinion.We also had a Gene G metal nose cone aquired in the early 90-s that had to be reworked in the contours.So I dont expect any part be a perfect out of the box fit .Cars and tollerences vary .As in the case of my seen ouch superbird on cars in barns .Wrecked by getting rear ended by a truck driver with only 19'000 original miles on it.Was the donor for all the superbird parts reproduced.As its 2005 were you gonna get a good exceptional unrestored factory painted nose to pull a mold off these days.Another tip is fiberglass shouldnt be air gunned over tightened.This is were and the only time Ive seen parts stressing damage occur.Ive never used any stingers parts to comment on them

I had seen my first Superbird at age 12 or 13 in my neighborhood growing up.And have owned a few wingcars since then.And do all my own mechanical work and rewire cars.Thanks to WW & DSAC for years of informational newsletters
1969 Daytona 440 Presently owned
1970 Coronet 500 383 Presently owned
1970 Superbird 440 U 166242
1970 Superbird 440 U 174597
1970 Superbird 440-6 V 179697
1970 Coronet RT 440 U 224126
1968 Road Runner 426 J 134509
1970 Daytona Replica 318 G 178701