How do you paint the engine after a rebuild?

[WH23G3G]

Do I paint the engine block before I install the heads? Do I paint each part of the motor separate? I've got the block rebuilt except for the heads and oil pump screen. I've got the intake, oil pan, water pump housing, water neck, manifold rails all bead blasted and jet washed. I want a clean engine. I want to make sure the gasket surfaces and gaskets don't get painted. However, I do want to get overspray on the exhaust manifolds like original, eventhough it won't last it looks cool. What's the prefered method for detail painting a fresh engine rebuild? How should I go about cleaning the excess oil that dripped when I installed the pistons. I sure don't want to blast it with a hose and get all the water in the engine.

[A383Wing]

Engine gets put all together, then gets painted as an assembly...at least, that's what I have learned.....

[Charger-Bodie]

It can be done any way you want But I prefer having them all together then paint.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Engine gets put all together, then gets painted as an assembly...at least, that's what I have learned.....

I have painted two engines and the above method is how I did it.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

 If you want it to look correct (factory) assemble it as already suggested then paint it as a unit.  Sometimes I like to paint my valve covers seperate, so I slip some old covers on the engine to paint it, then install the correct valve covers after the engine is installed in the car.
To get the engine clean before painting it I sometimes use spray carburetor cleaner or spray brake cleaner, then wipe it down with something like Prep-Sol, or Sherwilclean (SP?). 

[Charger-Bodie]

If you want it to look correct (factory) assemble it as already suggested then paint it as a unit.  Sometimes I like to paint my valve covers seperate, so I slip some old covers on the engine to paint it, then install the correct valve covers after the engine is installed in the car.
To get the engine clean before painting it I sometimes use spray carburetor cleaner or spray brake cleaner, then wipe it down with something like Prep-Sol, or Sherwilclean (SP?). 

Very similar to your carb spray method....I use a spray gun with thinner in it to "pressure wash" the engine from top to bottom then wipe down....

[WH23G3G]

The only problem with washing it down with thinner, carb, or brake cleaner is that the machine shop coated everything with a Nu-Cast paint to keep it from flash rusting. So I'm sure it will peel off with the cleaners applied to it. I was going to clean it with prep sol or 3M wax,grease remover until it was totally clean with no oil drips anywhere. Do I really need to buy the $30 engine paint seal kit? I don't want it to look like a cheap job and get overspray through the exhaust ports or manifold. What else is did the factory paint that shouldn't be painted besides the overspray on the exhaust manifolds? Didn't the factory paint the throttle brackets, vacuum port, heater hose connections, ground cable, and grommets Chrysler Blue just like the engine?

[Charger-Bodie]

The only problem with washing it down with thinner, carb, or brake cleaner is that the machine shop coated everything with a Nu-Cast paint to keep it from flash rusting. So I'm sure it will peel off with the cleaners applied to it. I was going to clean it with prep sol or 3M wax,grease remover until it was totally clean with no oil drips anywhere. Do I really need to buy the $30 engine paint seal kit? I don't want it to look like a cheap job and get overspray through the exhaust ports or manifold. What else is did the factory paint that shouldn't be painted besides the overspray on the exhaust manifolds? Didn't the factory paint the throttle brackets, vacuum port, heater hose connections, ground cable, and grommets Chrysler Blue just like the engine?

Id wash all that Nu-cast stuff right off with the thinner. 

[Sublime/Sixpack]

 There are lots of little tricks you can come up with when painting an engine. I use masking tape/paper on surfaces like the intake (carb mount surface) then after painting and removing the tape/paper I use a little laquer thinner on a rag to carefully remove any paint around the edges.
And as far as making it look factory correct (or should I say factory sloppy) don't you want it to look as good under the hood as possible? I'm a purest at heart so I can apprecitate what you are trying to do but you can make it look better than the factory did. And I suspect you may like it better in the long run. 
  Example:  On my '69 Bee theres a big factory paint run on the firewall that I retained to keep that factory/original flavor, but now everytime I check the oil I see that damn run in the paint. Its looks like crap, and I'm tempted (12 yrs later) to pull the engine and redo the firewall so I don't have to see that sloppy run in the paint!   Another example: On the Charger I painted the exhaust manifolds engine color so they looked correct then a year later I didn't like how the burned paint looked so I pulled them off, bead blasted them, then coated them with a natural color Hi-temp coating and put them back on. Much better!
   Not trying to change your mind, just trying to be helpful.

[Rolling_Thunder]

I usually assemble the engine minus intake and valve covers...    I mask off the intake ports - this is done simply for ease if painting the entire valley pan gasket - most customers also like to keep their aluminum intakes...    aluminum so it is merely a habit...      if stock valve covers are dictated they are painted on the engine as well as stock intakes if selected of corse...     I do leave the water pump and housing off to paint the entire timing chain cover. I also paint exhaust manifolds with Eastwood hi-temp coating, install pulleys, carb, fuel lines, fuel pump, and accessories afterwards to avoid crappy looking overspray.


I spray the engine with brake cleaner and wipe with paper towels...   then use floodlights and a propane torch to slightly heat the iron parts...     seems to promote better paint adhesion...   a couple of light coats to be followed by several normal layers of color then hi temp clear...     overall I use roughly 2-2.5 cans of color and 1-2 full cans of clear - Most of my customers make allowances for factory correct...    no drips and ALL of the engine painted...   not the half ass factory method...     

[1969chargerrtse]

I bought one of those engine paint kits.  It comes with cover gaskets for carb, water ports, spark plugs etc...  then sprayed the whole thing in one shot.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Your engine bay looks very nice! Good job

[PocketThunder]

Your engine bay looks very nice! Good job

     Holy Crap!!!!!!!      

[1969chargerrtse]

Oh thanks guys. My thought was if the motor is out being rebuilt, why not take the time to yank everything out while I'm waiting and do it right. It was not cheap, the car was extremely incorrect. I spent lots of time on this site or sucking on the brains of Chris and Brian our mods. It cost about 7 grand in total do do everything and was financially a draw on the family. My wife and I had quite a few head bashing momments but it's done and I have no regrets. The one thing I would add is Brian ( 1hot68 )mentioned is true. The new look doesn't last forever. One valve cover has flaked near the lower part near the hot exhaust. Little leak here and there. But hey I drive it a lot. My wife once said to me, why couldn't you just rebuild the engine?  Why did you put all that extra work and money into it?   Well I said, let me put it this way. God forbid I die, this I promise you, when the first person comes to look at  the car and they lift the hood, they'll say, Ill take it!  Nuff said.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

 Yes, after awhile the engine paint will fade a bit, there will be seepage here and there, and the stampings on your radiator hoses may start to flake off, but atleast you're starting out with it being primo.   
I think the biggest problem you'll have is with that battery. I finally stopped buying and using them because careful as I was, my left inner fender developed a few stains because of them.

But again, your bay looks great!  Nice job.

[Charger-Bodie]

Yes, after awhile the engine paint will fade a bit, there will be seepage here and there, and the stampings on your radiator hoses may start to flake off, but atleast you're starting out with it being primo.   
I think the biggest problem you'll have is with that battery. I finally stopped buying and using them because careful as I was, my left inner fender developed a few stains because of them.

But again, your bay looks great!  Nice job.

Just to clearify I told Rob to make it as nice as posible But NOT to expect it to stay like that forever..................................While something can wear from near perfection, It will never get any better than you make it.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

I agree, and besides always having the photos of it looking so good, he'll have the satisfaction of having done the job right! 

[1969chargerrtse]

Yes, after awhile the engine paint will fade a bit, there will be seepage here and there, and the stampings on your radiator hoses may start to flake off, but at least you're starting out with it being primo.   
I think the biggest problem you'll have is with that battery. I finally stopped buying and using them because careful as I was, my left inner fender developed a few stains because of them.

But again, your bay looks great!  Nice job.

This battery was like 300.00 or so.  More advise from Brian.  I was buying the lead acid type, but Brian advised I go with the gel filled type, I think it has a Optima yellow battery inside.  So it cost more but the thing could be on its side and it won't leak, or over boil etc...

[Sublime/Sixpack]

I was wondering about that, thought maybe it was a look correct with modern tech.  Best of both worlds.  Do you mind sharing the source name?

[Charger-Bodie]

Axion battery is the manfacturer. Good people to deal with.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Thank you.  One more question; what is the longevity of this battery?

[tan top]

I bought one of those engine paint kits.  It comes with cover gaskets for carb, water ports, spark plugs etc...  then sprayed the whole thing in one shot.

nice work ..looks good    , 

[1969chargerrtse]

Thank you.  One more question; what is the longevity of this battery?

You know what?  I can't find my paperwork on the battery?  It might be in the box out in the shed,  But it should be with my paperwork.
The warranty says 1 year full replacement, 3 years pro rate.  I would think they would last close to 7 years like a good gel battery.  There are threads out there about these batteries, but I can't find them.

Finally found the site, not very impressive site though.

http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/

[WH23G3G]

I only wish my engine bay could look that good. I'm not too much worried about it being perfect, I'll be driving it a lot and know things will get dirty and paint will chip. I did clean, sand, and paint the engine bay GK6 bronze metallic like it should be. But my engine bay wasn't perfect when I got it nor will it be when I finish it. I think one of the previous owners hit a wooden fence post when he was playing Dukes of Hazzard and it put a small quarter size hole in the core support and dented the top of the support. I got it straightened out enough so that everything will fit right and just smoothed it out and painted over it. I also didn't get NOS replacement parts either. Working at a parts store I got all I could as long as it was a decent quality. I want to get the electronics from Mopar Performance because all the aftermarket ones may work but just don't look right. I've refrained from posting any photos of the engine bay until I have the engine in and assembled. But hopefully it will be soon. That paint seal kit looks like it really makes it a clean paint job. 

[1969chargerrtse]

I only wish my engine bay could look that good. I'm not too much worried about it being perfect, I'll be driving it a lot and know things will get dirty and paint will chip. I did clean, sand, and paint the engine bay GK6 bronze metallic like it should be. But my engine bay wasn't perfect when I got it nor will it be when I finish it. I think one of the previous owners hit a wooden fence post when he was playing Dukes of Hazzard and it put a small quarter size hole in the core support and dented the top of the support. I got it straightened out enough so that everything will fit right and just smoothed it out and painted over it. I also didn't get NOS replacement parts either. Working at a parts store I got all I could as long as it was a decent quality. I want to get the electronics from Mopar Performance because all the aftermarket ones may work but just don't look right. I've refrained from posting any photos of the engine bay until I have the engine in and assembled. But hopefully it will be soon. That paint seal kit looks like it really makes it a clean paint job. 

Yeah well it was pretty ugly when I started.  I just ripped everything out and started over.  I ordered lots and lots of parts and made lots and lots of phone calls, and wrote lots and lots of help me post.  But it's done and over with.  I use it a lot also an just wipe it down.  It's lost some newness but still looks nice.