I THINK I'M GOING TO SELL MY DAYTONA

[moparstuart]

still love your car everytime i see it dane   

[Troy]

Looks like a non-A/C firewall. More links (FYI - I'm just using the advanced search):
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9015.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10621.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,18911.0.html

Troy

[Zinc]

Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
D

The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out

Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.

Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.

There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.


Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.







And what car do you have?

Dane, regarding wood buried in fiberglass, dose your yellow daytona clone have wooden homemade light buckets, like the red daytona you use to own, just curious?

[PocketThunder]

Larry, how does the car connect to the cart you have here?  Is it just sitting on dowel pins at factory hole locations in the frame?

[Daytona Guy]

Dane, regarding wood buried in fiberglass, dose your yellow Daytona clone have wooden homemade light buckets, like the red Daytona you use to own, just curious?

My red one did not have wood buckets so I am not sure where that came from, and my Yellow one does not either - My Yellow one has my own design glass buckets and aluminum headlight doors (Red Daytona's was glass) but they are completely dif from factory. I do not even need buckets but I have them so that they look good when opened – darkens the cavity. My pivot point is at the top of the headlight door and only opens 4" by a linier actuator (15 lbs).

[Daytona Guy]

still love your car everytime i see it dane   

Thanks Man!

[nascarxx29]

When I saw it many years ago.It was a X9 Black Charger 500 318 W/ AC with tan interior.Then I saw it in the paper for sale.And mentioned that car. Daytonalo later obtained it .And I supplied various pieces from a Non AC heater box .To Daytona/parking lights headlight bolts etc

[xs29l8b]

Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave

The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out

Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.

Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.

There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.


Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.







And what car do you have?

you have an amazing car sir.

[petercharger]

with the work he did on the car..i think Larry's car would be great for someone to finish it..I would keep the car Larry and do it later in the year..if not put a value on what you want out of it..

[nakita7]

I love your car, seen it on here several times before, looks like good work to me (worked as a Bodyman). I am actively looking for a clone, have a wanted ad running. Is there any way at all you have access to a 318 to throw in it and get it running? I'm serious, can you call me? Dallas @ 250-554-0403 (PACIFIC). Pacific means no 6AM calls from the East Coast (sorry, not sure where you are, had too many early calls). Thanks

[BigBlockSam]

I would keep the car Larry and do it later in the year 

  he's right you go through this every boat season

[xs29l8b]

does it have the rear vega plug?

[nascarxx29]

Yes it has the vega plug .I got it for him.And he had access to my original daytona for more correct info and detail

[petercharger]

so is anyone making an offer on that daytona...it's worth every penny he put in it...

[PocketThunder]

so is anyone making an offer on that daytona...it's worth every penny he put in it...

If i was flush with cash i would consider it.   I dont care about the numbers or quarter panels or the IQ of the current owner*, i just want a wing car.  (second to a C500 ofcourse) 

-------------------------------------------- Mike D style 

I for-see my generation (except for Danny) not caring about numbers matching or authentic vs clone, I just want a wing car someday, and if its a clone so what?  I'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi).   

Paul
in St. Paul



* that was shot...   I will someday have half the fabrication skills of our professional resident Daytona critic. 

[BigBlockSam]

I'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi).     

[PocketThunder]

  I'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi).     

Oh you like that do you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx3kKXDrtpM&feature=related   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDKnynsMIho&NR=1   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vheP74NGw8s&feature=related  MsMopar cutting it up!

[1970 RT/SE]

Someone tell me when the soap opera is over.

[moparstuart]

Someone tell me when the soap opera is over.

never but less drama after boat season

[petercharger]

larry did you end up selling the car...thanks

[daytonalo]

MANY OF MY FRIENDS WHO DRIVE OTHER MAKES ARE GETTING A KICK OUT OF HOW YOU GUY'S ARE SLAMMING  ME , GUESS I DESERVE IT !! ANYWAY , CAR IS LISTED UNDER CARS FOR SALE , MY # IS 609-315-2640 .


Larry

[triple_green]

Larry very nice work!!!...wish I had the time/skills to finish it.

3X

[daytonalo]

Will sell everything with this car for 25k , just paint and install your engine .609-315-2640


Larry

[Aero426]

Will sell everything with this car for 25k , just paint and install your engine .609-315-2640


Larry

Will you drop the price more if we all sit on our hands another two weeks?     

[kab69440]

Please God, let me win Mega Millions tomorrow!