I THINK I'M GOING TO SELL MY DAYTONA

[Old Moparz]

I will burn it before I sell it for 7 k

Well, if you burn it & there's a ton of black smoke we'll all know that you used a shitload of bondo.   

[suntech]

This took a strange turn!!!! 
Larry says he is thinking about selling his car, and ask what it is worth!! Ends up in a bunch of posts there everybody pretty much tells what piece of junk it is!!!
Then if somebody posts a picture of their car that they can run through, without opening the doors, and not even get sore shoulders, everybody says "hey........great project" 
Guess you need to refrase your question to : If it was yours, and you were thinking of selling it, what would it go for??!!!!

I am also in the boat buisness, raced and buildt boats for 30 years, and vinylester IS a hell of a lot better than good old poyester. Better bite to surface, and a lot less schrink.

[Zinc]

Fiberglass is Polyester , body Filler is the same , all the work I did I used Vinylester , twice the price of Polyester that are used on your body's
I'm not new to Fiberglass , been laying up boats for years . Every boat built on this Fucking planet has wood stringers glassed in with no problem . If you think you can build a car today with no Body filler , you really have your head up your Ass !!!!!! You too , go away !!

I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake"

[PocketThunder]

Fiberglass is Polyester , body Filler is the same , all the work I did I used Vinylester , twice the price of Polyester that are used on your body's
I'm not new to Fiberglass , been laying up boats for years . Every boat built on this Fucking planet has wood stringers glassed in with no problem . If you think you can build a car today with no Body filler , you really have your head up your Ass !!!!!! You too , go away !!

I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake"

Its Mr. Peabody!!      

[moparstuart]

  lets call underdog or  tennesse tuxido and chumly

[Beep Beep Dave]

No need to get your panties all bunched up Larri - BTW are you by chance a blonde?

I will try and make the questions easier for you to follow

1. What was the original drivetrain? 318? 383? 440? /6? auto? 4-speed?
2. Do you have some fairy dust to spread over the tranny tunnel or have you already put in the 4-speed hump?
3. Was the car a factory air conditioned?
4. Does it have an factory air conditioned firewall?
5. Does it have a 26 inch rad support? Was it there or did you have to install it?
6. Besides the Quarters how much other repop sheetmetal did you have to use?
7. Did you go with 1969 or 1970 Quarters?  (edit forget this question as the quarters as they need to come off anyway)


And yes I rechecked who started this thread and asked what their car is worth? You asked for opinions and I asked for more info.
If you have a predetermined answer in mind please let me know so I can agree with you before you get yourself upset any more.
This is starting to remind me of the time an old girlfriend asked me if these jeans made her look fat and I said no you do that all by yourself....that didn't go over too well either. And this is heading the same way  

Barring all of the above do you have a link to somewhere where all the pics are posted? I've always wanted a Daytona and if the price is right I'd be happy with a well done clone. I have a nice factory sunroof Charger roof looking for a home.

Dave

[Beep Beep Dave]

So far you have the makings of a very good HLPAG ad...a couple of bad pics and a vague description
All you need now is some orange paint and a lint free roller.
Good luck Buttercup

Dave

I know you're probably busting his balls, but he's got tons of previous threads with a lot of pics showing the work he did on the car. I haven't seen it in person, but I have been following the project. 

Do you have any links saved, I tried searching his posts but there is only soo much fluff one guy can get threw in one day. It would be nice to get down to the meat and pototoes so to speak.
Dave

[hotrod98]

I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake"

I can't even believe that you would compare the cars of the 60's and 70's to the Duesenburgs or model A's. I've worked the metal on those old cars and yes, I've been able to remove dents and not use filler, but we're talking about sheet metal that is almost twice as thick as the later stuff.  Big difference. You wouldn't have lasted too long working in my body shop at the dealership. I had those old guys coming in looking for a job that bragged about how they had been bodymen forever and knew how to work lead. I thanked them for coming by and showed them the way to the door. Working that old thick sheet metal and slinging lead won't get you too far nowadays when working on the new stuff.
The sheetmetal on the 69 Chargers resembles the metal of today more than the metal in those cars of the 30's. 

[Troy]

Here's a few:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6739.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,8271.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,12157.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,20786.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38262.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38855.0.html

Troy

[moparstuart]

   those are all great threads I went back and read them all, I cant believe larry you would sell this car after doing all that fantastic work !
  I love all my cars and you will have to tear them out of my cold dead hands !   

[Beep Beep Dave]

Here's a few:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6739.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,8271.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,12157.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,20786.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38262.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38855.0.html

Troy

Thanks Troy, I will check them all out later. A quick scan through and I don't see any engine compartment pics?

Dave

[69_500]

I think that the mentioned prices between $10-15K would be the right ball park numbers. I'm going to assume however that he has a figure in mind of around $30K or so, due to the previous thoughts of selling it once all completed with the crate HEMI for over $100K. Which I don't think would happen anyways, but that was the idea.
People aren't trying to low ball you by any means by saying $10K, or less. Like it or not #'s matter just as much if not more than quality work to many many many people. I'd take a rough as a cob real Daytona any day of week for the same money as a done completed cloned car. Just a simple fact.

[BigBlockSam]

$12000--------$15000   

[69_500]

Just being realistic. If a decent driver car with a 318 in it would currently be going for $12-15K , why should a rolling shell of a clone be any more expensive? To me, SHOULDN'T BE. 

[daytonalo]

4 speed tunnel, 26 " rad , installed outer Wheel houses and trunk floor . Let me hear that is all crap metal as well . I have worn many hats , I know boats , I race offshore in Class 5 with the OPA . My main focus right now is getting my 32 Skater in the water . Oh , let me hear you tell me the boats you build are better than a Kevlar -Vinlyester 32 Skater !! PEACE TO ALL , THIS IS IT FOR A WHILE !!! I WILL SELL EVERYTHING FOR MY CAR FOR 25 k , INCLUDING HEMI 4 SPEED AND BELLHOUSING . E-MAIL ME @lob77@comcast.net or 609-315-2640

[69_500]

Does that price also include the engine to go along with the HEMI 4 speed, and bellhousing?

[daytonalo]

A 472 Hemi ? , 16 k

[Beep Beep Dave]

I don't know boats.
Yes that 1st generation sheetmetal is all crap - you asked. The newer AMD stuff is night and day better. Original sheetmetal still trumps all though. Do you have any pics of how you joined up the lower quarters and the trunk extensions? That usually separates the boys from the men.
I personally wouldn't part with $25k of my money for that but if you come down from that and can answer some basic questions it might be worth a look.
I'd still like to know what it started out as drivetrain wise and if it was an A/C car  but I must not have the latest decoder ring
Good day sir.
Dave

[BigBlockSam]

 

[Aero426]

Just being realistic. If a decent driver car with a 318 in it would currently be going for $12-15K , why should a rolling shell of a clone be any more expensive? To me, SHOULDN'T BE. 

Considering he's done the engineering to get the nose mounted fitted and working,  that's worth something.   That's worth how many months of messing around doing it yourself?    Plus you've got the value of the parts.    How much someone is willing to pay for all that, I can't say.     Most of us here try to do things on the cheap.   

Overall, it has the potential to be one of the nicest clones out there.   

[69_500]

I'll agree with that Doug, in that it is a fully functional nose cone. Which in and of itself, is something to be pretty proud of. However a lot of people are like you said, and on the cheap. So if they can cobble together a nose cone, that looks half decent for a fraction of the price then that is what a lot of people would choose as well.

Personally I think its a pretty good looking car, if your wanting to do a clone. Its definitely something to work with. Its not finished so you can still do it your way, if you so choose to change anything. Quite a few of the hard things are already done. IE nose cone, and rear window plug are already installed.

[hotrod98]

The problem with trying to sell an unfinished car is that the guy that buys it will probably be a do-it-yourselfer. The problem with that is the do-it-yourselfer will more than likely feel like he can do the whole project himself for less money. Never mind the difficulty of what's been done to the car. Obviously, guys are buying those so called complete do-it-yourself kits all of the time and not one of them has a clue as to what lies ahead.
I hope that Larry gets his price for the car. Somewhere out there is a guy smart enough to realize that Larry has done the hard part. The rest of it is simple resto type work that any decent bodyman or bodyshop can do.

[Old Moparz]

Larry, when I said $7K to $10K, I was basing it on what someone might be willing to shell out for it if you wanted it gone. Danny (69_500) makes a good point when he said it's not a real one, just a replica. The cars that tend to get the highest prices are the originals, & the majority of the people don't spend serious money on one that isn't. (Yes, there are some exceptions, but in general.) I know what it would cost to duplicate the car you have, & you can't for the $7K to $10K I mentioned.

If you really want to sell it, you have to compile all your photos in stages & be descriptive with details. Posting it on several sites & ebay will be way better than a buried price in a WIW thread on an aero forum. I was on the phone a couple of years ago pricing airline tickets to go out west with a deposit for a Daytona replica, but someone beat me to it. That's one of the reasons I ended up buying my '70 Road Runner & started accumulating Daytona parts for my Charger.

I'd be seriously interested in yours if I didn't buy my Road Runner. I'd sell my '68 Charger & all my Daytona parts too. I'd love to see you keep it & to see your car finished. Throw a cover over it until boating season is over, although I never could understand the need for boating over cars......LOL. You'd be much better off finishing it to get a good price & not sell it as a project, people grow tired of having too much work. They also don't always have the money to pay someone to finish it.   

[petercharger]

sell or not to sell that is the question?

[Daytona Guy]

Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave

The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out

Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.

Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.

There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.


Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.







And what car do you have?