Use Original forged steel crank or buy new one for 440?

[Chatt69chgr]

I have the original forged steel crank out of a 69 440 that had automatic.  I am trying to decide if I should try to use it for my engine build (warmed up 440-4sp with 10.5:1CR and Stealth heads) or should consider buying a new crank from somebody like 440Source.  I think others offer these new cranks now for the same price----all made in China.   Assuming that it will clean up OK and that I do plan to buy new rods to reduce the reciprocating weight and have the rotating assembly balanced, what are the pros and cons?  I guess I would have to have the crank magnafluxed and ground all costing $$.  Or for $550, I can just buy a new one.

How can I tell if the flywheel end of the crank is bored for a pilot bearing----anyone have pictures/dimensions that they could provide so I could compare/measure mine.  If it's not, that would be another expense (assuming I could find a shop to do the machining).

[John_Kunkel]

When it comes to parts that are susceptible to fatigue, new is always better but for your build I would save the money and use a stock crank if it checks out OK.

If the crank has been finish reamed for a pilot bushing it will measure .9375", unfinished cranks usually measure around .915".

[firefighter3931]

I'm with John....use the stock forged crank, it's plenty strong for your application. A set of new h-beam rods + lightweight pistons and you'll have a bulletproof bottom end. 

Ron

[Chatt69chgr]

Can somebody take a picture of a 440 forged crank for a 4 speed showing the end that the flywheel/pilot bushing goes in.  Mine came out of a 69 New Yorker with automatic.  It has a kind of extension that stick out from the flywheel flange that measures something like 1.8 inches across inside dia and is maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inches deep.  Then there is a round hole in the center of that which extends back into the center of the crank itself.  It's maybe 0.7 inch in diameter.  I have a funny feeling that my crank is not set up for a pilot bushing.  I will note that the cast crank I have laying next to it doesn't look remotely like the forged on on the flywheel end.

If my crank is not bored for a pilot bushing, can it be?  What is the typical charge for this?

[metallicareload99]

Can somebody take a picture of a 440 forged crank for a 4 speed showing the end that the flywheel/pilot bushing goes in.  Mine came out of a 69 New Yorker with automatic.  It has a kind of extension that stick out from the flywheel flange that measures something like 1.8 inches across inside dia and is maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inches deep.  Then there is a round hole in the center of that which extends back into the center of the crank itself.  It's maybe 0.7 inch in diameter.  I have a funny feeling that my crank is not set up for a pilot bushing.  I will note that the cast crank I have laying next to it doesn't look remotely like the forged on on the flywheel end.

If my crank is not bored for a pilot bushing, can it be?  What is the typical charge for this?

My 440 also came out of a 69 Chrysler C-body automatic.  I used the MoPar roller pilot bearing instead of the bronze bushing, and it all worked out fine.  I didn't have to mess with the pilot hole at all.  What I did to ensure that the pilot shaft had enough room was to take a measurement of the nose of the pilot shaft diameter and length, and compared it to the hole in the back of the crank.  Another way to check is if you have the clutch alignment tool, you can use it to simulate the tip of the transmission's input shaft.  This is how I made sure everything would work out.

I also had a cast crank that did not have a hole for the pilot bearing, it was obvious it needed to be drilled out.

While your particular crank may not be drilled and finished for a pilot bushing, it should be possible to use the pilot bearing with the crank as it is now.  I have never heard of a forged crank that did not have the pilot hole at least rough bored into it.  If the hole is not there it can definitely be machined into it, Good luck

[Chatt69chgr]

Thanks Metallicare-----I got on the Brewers Performance website and downloaded the info on pilot bushings/bearings.  I understand what you are saying and will measure my crank in light of all this new info.

[Chatt69chgr]

Well, I measured the larger inside diameter on the crankshaft and it looks like it's around 1.81-inches.  And I pushed the nose of the transmission into the end of the crank and it fits with some clearance into the smaller bored hole.  So all I need to do is order a pilot bearing from Brewers and I have this little dilemna solved.  Thanks so much to metallicareload99, John, and Firefighter for all the help.  Another of my endless "problems" solved.

[metallicareload99]

No problem, 4-Speeds are fun.  It's worth the "trouble"