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Alternative sound deading material, FYI.

Started by Back N Black, April 21, 2008, 08:02:24 PM

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Back N Black

This is what i used to cover the floor in my charger, it is easy to apply and conforms to the floor really well. It is 12x12 square .70 mils (1/16") thick sound deading material. Peel of plastic and apply.

Back N Black

Its called Pro- Form and there are 10 sheets of 12x12 per box.$ 30 per box

BROCK

Cool!  How much does a box weigh?  How many boxes did it take?  Are they found at Home Depot?

=============================================
Let your music be in transit to the world

dkn1997

RECHRGED

694spdRT

Looks like some decent stuff. Did you have to heat it up to fit the contours of the floorboards?
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

bill440rt

That type of sound deadener looks like a replacement for sound deadener in modern cars. For example, trunk wells, floors, inside door skins, etc.
I was looking into that kind myself. There are other manufacturers that offer it, & it also comes in large, wide rolls.

It's probably not as good as Dynamat or Hush-Mat, but waaaay better than having nothing at all. And, it's a lot less expensive.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Back N Black

Quote from: bill440rt on April 22, 2008, 03:33:55 PM
That type of sound deadener looks like a replacement for sound deadener in modern cars. For example, trunk wells, floors, inside door skins, etc.
I was looking into that kind myself. There are other manufacturers that offer it, & it also comes in large, wide rolls.

It's probably not as good as Dynamat or Hush-Mat, but waaaay better than having nothing at all. And, it's a lot less expensive.

Bill you are right on all accounts. I did not want to spend a small fortune on Dynamat and i think it will work just fine.

Quote from: 694spdRT on April 22, 2008, 12:05:12 AM
Looks like some decent stuff. Did you have to heat it up to fit the contours of the floorboards?
Quote

i did not have to heat it up to fit the contours of the floor, i just used a small roller to get it into the nooks and crannies of the floor boards. I made a roller wheel out of a seat spacer, that fit the grooves in the floor pan perfectly.

41husk

were do you purchase it, and how much did it take to cover the floor?
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

PocketThunder

Looks like a nice product.  I used edead from elemental designs.  I put that stuff everywhere and the doors shut with a nice "click"...  :2thumbs:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10796.msg146399.html#msg146399

"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Shakey

Quote from: Back N Black on April 21, 2008, 08:02:24 PM
This is what i used to cover the floor in my charger, it is easy to apply and conforms to the floor really well. It is 12x12 square .70 mils (1/16") thick sound deading material. Peel of plastic and apply.

The work you've done on the underdash components looks great!   :2thumbs:

Back N Black

Quote from: 41husk on May 13, 2008, 01:48:19 PM
were do you purchase it, and how much did it take to cover the floor?

I bought it at Auto Machinery and i used 4 boxes. It covered from the firewall all the way to the back seat area. It cost me $120 plus tax.

41husk

1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

Goodz

So what is the sound difference in the car?  Have you started it up yet to see the difference?  Is it really worth doing?
"If there are two ways to interpret something I said, and one of them offends you, I meant the other one."

Finn

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Back N Black

Quote from: Finn on July 07, 2008, 07:40:55 PM
^what he said  :popcrn:


Engine is still on the engine stand. I will let you know when i fire it up.

rusty lee

cool thanks for the info. always looking for new ideas that don't cost alot.

4speed


PocketThunder

Quote from: Back N Black on July 07, 2008, 08:01:35 PM
Quote from: Finn on July 07, 2008, 07:40:55 PM
^what he said  :popcrn:


Engine is still on the engine stand. I will let you know when i fire it up.

What was the end result with the engine in and running?

Paul

Sorry about the old thread but like a girlfriend of several years, i need some closure!  :icon_smile_big:
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Back N Black

I think it works really well compared to the stock insulation, but i do not know how it compares to other aftermarket sound deading material like Dynomat etc...

E5 Charger


MORFF

I LIKE THIS EASTWOOD idea does anybody know how many boxes for a 69 Charger I have to do everything have nothing installed at all for sound and heat.
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

NHCharger

I just bought the Eastwood stuff for my Charger. I measured it up and it takes 1 1/2 boxes, so I bought three boxes to do both my Chargers. I'm more interested in the heat resistant aspect than the road noise. The floor boards and fire wall get real hot with the headers and dual exhaust on my 71.
I should be installing it in my 71 within two weeks. If you can wait that long I can tell you if I measured right or not. ;)
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

MORFF

Thanks yea Its going to be at least that my body  guy has to weld in the driver floor panel  then i am going to clean and caulk and prime seams get the interior done in primer. Then he is going to take it to outside body work. So I am looking at maybe nov tell i put it in but i like to try to stay one step ahead to know what i can use that is good that does not break the bank.
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

NHCharger

OK, well that was a long two weeks ::) putting the car back together is taking 10 times longer than taking it apart.
Anyway I used exactly 1 1/2 boxes of the Eastwood material. If you do the trunk you will use two full boxes and will still be short by a sheet or two. I figured 4 hours, took nearly 8, I was probably way to picky since this is being covered over. The stuff installs fairly easy. I used 15lb. felt paper to make templates since there is hardly a straight or flat area on the floor. Cuts easily with a utility knife.
The directions say to wear gloves since the edges of the foil will be sharp once you cut it, I thought, gloves are for pussies. I sliced the tip of my middle finger open in the last hour of this and bled all over the place :lol: :lol:
Below are some pics of the finished product. I used two tools. One is my laminate roller. The other is a homemade roller I had to make to get the material into all the creases and corners. I used that one 90% of the time.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

ODZKing

Nice jobs.  I like the home made roller.  I could have used it when I did mine.
I used a material exactly like the DynaMat material I've seen at shows. Except it was $16.00 a roll at Home Depot and one foot wide - Duct Wrap.  Looks very similar to yours.  Foil on one side, sticky on the other ... worked great and what a difference it made.  Pictures here:
http://www.retrorarities.com/FloorPans/index.html

jpsycoboy5

Quote from: ODZKing on August 30, 2010, 09:10:39 PM
Nice jobs.  I like the home made roller.  I could have used it when I did mine.
I used a material exactly like the DynaMat material I've seen at shows. Except it was $16.00 a roll at Home Depot and one foot wide - Duct Wrap.  Looks very similar to yours.  Foil on one side, sticky on the other ... worked great and what a difference it made.  Pictures here:
http://www.retrorarities.com/FloorPans/index.html

Did you layer it or is that alll one layer?
1973 dodge charger se was 318 in process of swapping in 440

ODZKing

Quote from: jpsycoboy5 on August 31, 2010, 12:29:32 AM

Did you layer it or is that alll one layer?
All one layer.  And I noticed that the foil edges would curl easily so I used foil tape on the seams.  It runs from front to back and you can see the tape seams.  Worked great!!
The entire interior cost around $45.00.  Materials I used are in the pictures (not including the blades and blood - LOL!)

HANDM

Quote from: ODZKing on August 31, 2010, 08:11:10 AM
Quote from: jpsycoboy5 on August 31, 2010, 12:29:32 AM

Did you layer it or is that alll one layer?
All one layer.  And I noticed that the foil edges would curl easily so I used foil tape on the seams.  It runs from front to back and you can see the tape seams.  Worked great!!
The entire interior cost around $45.00.  Materials I used are in the pictures (not including the blades and blood - LOL!)

I'm on it!
Gonna go to big orange today and pick me up some Frost King and tape and get on it
Thanks for the great cheaper alternative  :2thumbs:

MORFF

Nice job I am defenitly going eastwood. I got tired of waiting on body guy so i have to wait another couple weeks and me and my father-in-law are going to weld panels my self then i can put the eastwood in nice job man. tks for posting pics.
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

69bronzeT5

Quote from: ODZKing on August 31, 2010, 08:11:10 AM
Quote from: jpsycoboy5 on August 31, 2010, 12:29:32 AM

Did you layer it or is that alll one layer?
All one layer.  And I noticed that the foil edges would curl easily so I used foil tape on the seams.  It runs from front to back and you can see the tape seams.  Worked great!!
The entire interior cost around $45.00.  Materials I used are in the pictures (not including the blades and blood - LOL!)

How well does it keep heat and sound out? Especially heat?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

ODZKing

Well, my wife each trip would put her cold water on the floor in a bag leaning near the hump.  After about an hour or so she'd say the ice had all melted and it was warm. Undrinkable, warmer than outside temp-warm. 
She has done that several times this year and the ice melts slowly and doesn't get warm nearly as quickly, and not near as warm as before.
As far as sound, my car windows are not exactly as quiet as a Lincoln, but I can honestly say with the windows open, I can now hear the exhaust from the outside, not through the floor.
I don't know how the DynaMat works, I have never been in a car that had it.  I can say I have seen both materials and the duct wrap I used seems to be the same type material but comes in a one foot roll.  Frankly I thought it was easier to work with than a whole sheet.
I'd be interested to hear jpsycoboy5's thoughts on it.

jpsycoboy5

Quote from: ODZKing on September 03, 2010, 07:44:39 AM
Well, my wife each trip would put her cold water on the floor in a bag leaning near the hump.  After about an hour or so she'd say the ice had all melted and it was warm. Undrinkable, warmer than outside temp-warm. 
She has done that several times this year and the ice melts slowly and doesn't get warm nearly as quickly, and not near as warm as before.
As far as sound, my car windows are not exactly as quiet as a Lincoln, but I can honestly say with the windows open, I can now hear the exhaust from the outside, not through the floor.
I don't know how the DynaMat works, I have never been in a car that had it.  I can say I have seen both materials and the duct wrap I used seems to be the same type material but comes in a one foot roll.  Frankly I thought it was easier to work with than a whole sheet.
I'd be interested to hear jpsycoboy5's thoughts on it.

Well my charger is far from being near this stage but I did use it in my dodge ram this weekend by the transfer case during slow crawling or 2 tracking would always get very hot almost to hot to touch and after using the duct wrap it has cooled the floor a considerable amount and it did make the truck a lot quieter I haven't tried dynamat so idk how it compares to the duct wrap either but it was cheap and did the job
1973 dodge charger se was 318 in process of swapping in 440

NHCharger

Took the Charger out for a test drive, first one in almost 5 years. No main roads, just up and down the side road a few times. Had my infra-red temperature gun. I left one small space on the firewall bare. After the drive and idling in my driveway the temperature on the one spot was 195º-200º. Every place around it with the Eastwood material was 50º-60º cooler. Carpet is not installed so i could get a true reading. I'm thinking about putting a second layer of the material on the firewall area. The headers easily get up to 500º and being a few inches from the firewall it's a real foot warmer.

As far as the sound deadening after 5 years I wouldn't know if it was reduced or not. Plus the back seat, trunk divider, carpet and door panels are not in yet.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

gtx6970

I'm doing a 1970 Cuda for a customer and we are going with fatmat.com over dyna-mat

with a friend of mines recomendation ( he used it in a 1972 Dart resto and says it's  a quality product )

NHCharger

Update. Big difference in road noise between my 72 Charger with no sound deadening and the 71 Charger. And I only did the floors and firewall.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

ramairthree

Im just doing reflectix over home made lizard skin,
but your peel and place option looks great!

No adhesive, not big rolls. A smart way to go.

By the way, I thought I found a list on here , or a pic on here that showed a list of the sizes of interior trim screws, sheet metal screws you needed for door panels, kick panels, etc. etc.

Am I crazy, I can not find it now.