News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Newbie here :) Hello from Detroit

Started by 69*F5*SE, April 03, 2008, 02:16:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69*F5*SE

Hey Leon, I'm right up Gratiot from your shop near Frazho Rd.  Sure, I'd love to check out your shop.  Maybe this will help me with the boost I need in getting some of the chores done on my 69.  I appreciate the invite.  Thanks   :yesnod:  Ted

hemi-hampton


bmoparmofo

Just saying hi and welcome from Berkley, now that its warming up I'll be wrenching on my 69 again as well.. :cheers:
69 charger 383 t5, 67 newport 383, 67 newport custom 383

LeeBoy

Welcome to the site. Thanks for the tip on the Picklex 20. I have been looking for something like that for when I get my car blasted. Thanks again.
My 68 Charger build http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,41318.0.html
2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, 2005 HEMI Ram( totaled with only 27,000 miles on it!), 1977 Power Wagon (Sold), 1977 Plymouth Trailduster, 1974 360 Cuda, 1973 Satellite Sebring Plus, 1973 D200 Adventurer Sport, 1968 Charger (sold), 1965 Dart (sold)

69*F5*SE

Hey Leeboy, remember this, "Picklex 20 can only be coated with EPOXY primer when ready".  "NO ETCH PRIMER OVER Picklex 20".  Picklex 20 already provides the acidic etch.  The stuff is excellent though.  It'll keep bare metal rust free if kept indoors.  Spray it on, let it sit without puddling to soak in. It can be worked in with a red scuff pad.  Coat the metal evenly.  It dries chalky sometimes where it is on too heavy. It even removes rust if needed. Best is to have the car epoxy primed immediately after blasting but either way you have definitely got your work cut out for you.   :yesnod:  Hope this helps.

LeeBoy

Quote from: 69*F5*SE on April 08, 2008, 12:58:10 PM
Hey Leeboy, remember this, "Picklex 20 can only be coated with EPOXY primer when ready".  "NO ETCH PRIMER OVER Picklex 20".  Picklex 20 already provides the acidic etch.  The stuff is excellent though.  It'll keep bare metal rust free if kept indoors.  Spray it on, let it sit without puddling to soak in. It can be worked in with a red scuff pad.  Coat the metal evenly.  It dries chalky sometimes where it is on too heavy. Hope this helps.
Can regular metal etch from a bodyshop supply be used to keep bare metal rust free as well? It is less expensive but if it doesn't keep the bare metal from rusting I'll use the Picklex.
My 68 Charger build http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,41318.0.html
2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, 2005 HEMI Ram( totaled with only 27,000 miles on it!), 1977 Power Wagon (Sold), 1977 Plymouth Trailduster, 1974 360 Cuda, 1973 Satellite Sebring Plus, 1973 D200 Adventurer Sport, 1968 Charger (sold), 1965 Dart (sold)

six-tee-nine

Welcome here

69 F5 SE, mine's exactly the same triple green with 383 2BBL and 727 on the console. What about yours?
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


69*F5*SE

Leeboy,  regular metal etch won't work like Picklex 20.  Picklex was actually developed for welding puposes but then was discovered to preserve metal and or remove rust depending on the application needed.  It provides a stronger weld with little to no sparks.

69*F5*SE

Hey six-tee-nine, mine originally is to be F5 medium green metallic although it's not ready for paint yet.  It's a 383 4 barrel 727 slapstick shift car.  pretty close though. Thanks :)