update from vega plug installation of 70 charger

[moparstuart]

That was the price that daytonalo and I talked about last year, but I don't think that it can be done for that. There are a lot of parts and a lot of tedious assembly to make everything work right and reliable. If you sell one bad assembly, then you're pretty much out of business so they have to fit and work right every time. Word travels fast on the net. If you buy all good parts, you're going to have almost that much in parts alone.
Larry (daytonalo) has the experience and the ability to pull this off but I haven't convinced him to do it yet. He has at least two on his resume' already. He uses GTO vacuum pods on his assemblies and has it all figured out. I have a new set of GTO pods and was planning to alter them and experiment a little. Just haven't had the time or the motivation.
Maybe we can experiment on your car Stuart. 

i'm up for that   

[BigBlockSam]

those gto pods work well. thats what i have on my nose. you just have to shorten the shafts . Rene

[Howie]

I may have the nose for that unless you do hotrod!

[moparstuart]

I may have the nose for that unless you do hotrod!

i'll take it

[hotrod98]

Message sent. I'm finishing up a paint job this week and may work on the nose project.

[Daytona Guy]

Can't wait(but I will) till hotrod98 starts a clone kit parts business! already got the wing braces last year looking forward to many more good things to bolt on my cloneabee some day charger. Best Wishes to All! Stephen

I will use linear actuators to keep the operation of the headlamps simple and reliable.

Where do get the linear actuators - I have looked all over and they are usually over kill and I cannot find them small enough. (15 lbs max is what I need)

[BigBlockSam]

i have daytonalo's only production nose with working headlights. he said it was to much work for the money .

[hotrod98]

Can't wait(but I will) till hotrod98 starts a clone kit parts business! already got the wing braces last year looking forward to many more good things to bolt on my cloneabee some day charger. Best Wishes to All! Stephen

I will use linear actuators to keep the operation of the headlamps simple and reliable.

Where do get the linear actuators - I have looked all over and they are usually over kill and I cannot find them small enough. (15 lbs max is what I need)

Dane, try this link.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=136

These are the ones that I was thinking about using. See any reason why they wouldn't work?

[NYCMille]

Why not just do an electric conversion with aftermarket motors and ditch the accuators that's what we did and it works perfectly.

[BigBlockSam]

Why not just do an electric conversion with aftermarket motors and ditch the actuators that's what we did and it works perfectly. 

thats cool if you use  all metal moving parts but if you use fiberglass parts . it tends to stress out the fiberglass parts . vacuum is gentler . Rene

[daytonalo]

Anything will work ! Electric motors , springs , cables , Velcro , small midgets , bottle rockets , Popsicle sticks , duct tape , all will work !!! Simply put , why reinvent the wheel   with Vacuum a Monkey could install and dirt cheap and will out live everyone on board . Why get involved with Brackets , limit switches , why ?? My motto KISS , KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !!!!!!!!!!


Larry

[hotrod98]

Larry, what are the guys supposed to use for a vacuum switch when their car doesn't have a vacuum style switch on the headlamps. Even the guys that have the 68 and 69 style switches find that they more often than not no longer work. At least with the 12 volt actuator, all you have to do is run down to the parts store and pick up a little wiring and an electrical type switch and you're in business. Besides, the vacuum pods are designed to hold the headlamps shut. How well will they operate when used to hold them up as well? I don't think the GTO pods were actually designed to hold something up that is that heavy for long. They were designed to open a lightweight plastic headlamp door...sideways.
And, will the pods prevent those heavy headlamp assemblies from shaking on rough roads? When the headlamps are opened with an actuator, they're there for the duration. No shake, no failure. I really don't see where using the vacuum pods are easier than any other method. I think that fabbing up a couple of mounts for an actuator would be fairly simple in my opinion.
I'm all for keeping it simple. If these actuators had been around in 1969, I can just about guarantee you that the Chargers and Daytonas would have had them. I don't know of any new cars that use vacuum pods.
I'm all for keeping it simple and I say actuators are a no brainer way to go.

[NYCMille]

'm all for keeping it simple and I say actuators are a no brainer way to go.

BINGO!  Although I would like to see how the small midgets could be utilized.

[moparstuart]

'm all for keeping it simple and I say actuators are a no brainer way to go.

BINGO!  Although I would like to see how the small midgets could be utilized.

or a hamster on a wheel

[daytonalo]

I converted my stock charger Headlight Switch to Vacuum ! You could also very easily use that Vacuum/Electric Switch .  This is not f****nn Rocket science !!! any method will work !!! I have tried many methods ,and vacuum works ,and one of Jerry's Kids could install it !!


Larry

[daytonalo]

ITs all good !!! Good  luck to all !!! I'm leaving you guy's for a while !! !!

[Daytona R/T SE]

Where ya goin' Larry? You're not going to do anything crazy, Like.....get a job.... ARE YOU???

[daytonalo]

No way!! Made it to 44 without one , about to to get another race boat will be my main focus until next Oct

[Daytona R/T SE]

No way!! Made it to 44 without one , about to to get another race boat will be my main focus until next Oct

Whew !  You had me worried there for a minute   


Party on, Dude 

[BigBlockSam]

the vacuum pods are designed to hold the headlamps shut. How well will they operate when used to hold them up as well 

those pods have two hoses on them . one is up and the other is down. when the lights are in the up position , you can't push them down with your hand . i tried and when there closed the vacuum holds them closed tight. you can't open them with your hands  without removing the vacuum from the down side of the pod . again i tried it . it works well . plus it's more like the original . i like that .
i agree  use what ever works . i know replicas that had them spring loaded and sprung with cables . i liked that too and it works. as long as it lasts and you don't have to keep fixing them.  Rene

[daytonalo]

BOTTLE ROCKETS WOULD BE A NICE TOUCH !!!!!

[A383Wing]

Larry, what are the guys supposed to use for a vacuum switch when their car doesn't have a vacuum style switch on the headlamps. Even the guys that have the 68 and 69 style switches find that they more often than not no longer work.

I have an aftermarket solution to the original headlight switch for the 68-69 cars....it's a remote electric-vacuum switch that is operated off of the original headlight switch. The 3 vacuum lines hook up to it along with 2 electric wires....I have had one on our Daytona since 1994, never had any problems...I posted a number of threads & write-ups on this years ago...but nobody listens to me. Sorry to hi-jack this thread....but someone asked about headlight switch issues.....

Bryan

ATTENTION
OWNERS OF '68 & '69 DODGE CHARGERS

ARE YOUR HEADLIGHT DOORS NOT WORKING?
WON'T OPEN?    WON'T CLOSE?   
DO YOU HEAR VACUUM LEAK BEHIND DASH?

MAYBE THE PROBLEM IS BAD HEADLIGHT SWITCH

WHY SPEND HOURS LOOKING IN WRECKING YARDS - MOST ARE GONE ALREADY OR THEY ARE BROKEN ALSO

NOS SWITCHES ARE HARD TO FIND - ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE!

WE HAVE A SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM - THIS DEVICE IS AN ELECTRIC VACUUM SWITCH THAT TAKES THE PLACE OF THE VACUUM SWITCH ATTACHED TO THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH

ALL THAT HAS TO BE DONE IS: REMOVE THE 3 VACUUM HOSES FROM YOUR EXISTING SWITCH - HOOK THEM UP TO THE NEW SWITCH - HOOK UP 2 ELECTRIC WIRES (1 TO GROUND & THE OTHER TO DIMMER SWITCH) AND YOU ARE DONE

NOTE: THIS SWITCH WILL ALSO WORK ON '69 DAYTONAS & '70 SUPERBIRDS
            (BUT THE HEADLIGHT OPENING SPRINGS MUST BE REMOVED)

[hotrod98]

I've owned my current Charger for about four years and I've never tried the headlamp switch. Never drove the car at night. I wonder if it works.
As for the actuator post...I haven't yanked Larry's chain in a while. It's okay, I feel better now.

I have an aftermarket solution to the original headlight switch for the 68-69 cars....it's a remote electric-vacuum switch that is operated off of the original headlight switch. The 3 vacuum lines hook up to it along with 2 electric wires....I have had one on our Daytona since 1994, never had any problems...I posted a number of threads & write-ups on this years ago...but nobody listens to me.

Bryan

I'm listening now. 

[hotrod98]

We started hi-jacking this thread about 7 days ago. 

[daytonalo]

KISS !!!!! KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !!! This system is simple !!! Why not hire two Pigmies to hold doors open @ night


Larry