Has my BAT wire been messed with on the IGN switch?

[cudadude013]

My ignition switch still seems to not be getting any power. I believe there is supposed to be a red wire coming from the bulkhead that goes to the IGN switch but it looks like a previous owner may have messed with it.

The red wire seems to have been cut and brown wires were added to each end. Is this normal? What should I do to fix it?

...just one of the many problems I'm working out to get her running

[cudadude013]

...and just FYI... I tried connecting the two brown wires (to make one continous red wire) and my blue fusible link at the starter relay just melted

[Nacho-RT74]

what year are we talking about ?

[cudadude013]

'68 440

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChargerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChargerB.JPG

[cudadude013]

Thanks Nacho,

everything seems to get mixed up where the wires are taped together.

Does this look like the red "j" wire and the black "p" wire that connects to the ammeter?

Looking at the other posts it seems I can just connect the two and call it good.

[cudadude013]

and just to give you an idea of the mess I'm working with...

my first time messing with electrical. 

[2Gunz]

Thanks Nacho,

everything seems to get mixed up where the wires are taped together.

Does this look like the red "j" wire and the black "p" wire that connects to the ammeter?

Looking at the other posts it seems I can just connect the two and call it good.

Without being there..........

It looks like they are the Amp gauge wires.

And yes..... you can connect them together.

But dont let Nacho catch you doing that!

[cudadude013]

Cool, well as a comprimise I think I'll only connect the two until I get my gauge cluster installed

[nh_mopar_fan]

Been there, done that. Did anything power up at all?

What I did was make a copy of the wiring diagram and get out some thin color markers.

I traced every wire from the bulkhead connector. When I confirmed it was right, I colored in that line with the color of the wire.

Worked great. Mine was way more messed up than that.

[cudadude013]

nope still no power. not even a "click" when I turn the key.

If I try to jump it from the starter relay it "clicks" but doesn't trun over.

[UFO]

Cool, well as a comprimise I think I'll only connect the two until I get my gauge cluster installed

I would not be hooking up a battery without the cluster installed,much less trying to start the car.Way too many possible short circuits.

[cudadude013]

Good to know, I always thought the cluster was the last part to install, but it was just a guess. I'm new to this and always looking for useful tips. I'll go try to install the cluster right now and see if that helps!

Thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

And yes..... you can connect them together.

But dont let Nacho catch you doing that!

Cool, well as a comprimise I think I'll only connect the two until I get my gauge cluster installed

I would not be hooking up a battery without the cluster installed,much less trying to start the car.Way too many possible short circuits.

Good to know, I always thought the cluster was the last part to install, but it was just a guess. I'm new to this and always looking for useful tips. I'll go try to install the cluster right now and see if that helps!

Thanks

there is not problem on that as far you tape both ammeter terminals once together. I in fact drove my car once without cluster, in that way.

[Nacho-RT74]

From the distance I just can tell how the ign switch works and how all wires work onall mopars, no matter the year.

Red wire arriving to ign switch is spliced from black wire arriving to ammeter, so is hooked at alt line. as far amm wires are not together ( with engine off ), you won't have power on ign switch to get power coming from batt. this source comes from red wire to ammeter.

When engine is running and alt charging, then you have power on black wire to ammeter so power on ign switch on red wire, no matter if amm wires are not together.

Brown wire at Ign switch feeds the coil bypassing the ballast. Send power JUST on Start position
Yellow wire clicks the starter relay. Send power JUST on start position

Black wire at Ign switch is accesories. powered on RUN position
Blue wire feeds all engine sources ( reg, ballast, elct asist choke, alt brush if double field, ECU module if elect ign ), also some sources on cab. Just power on RUN position

NOTES: when everything is hooked, blue and brown wires are ALLWAYS powered on both RUN and START, but just because ballast plays like a splice.

Red wire to ammeter does have a fuse link ( if everything is original ), bolted to starter relay stud.

First check, if you have power on red ammeter wire. As far you don't have power there, then you won't have power anywhere once red and black wires are hooked together.

[Nacho-RT74]

...and just FYI... I tried connecting the two brown wires (to make one continous red wire) and my blue fusible link at the starter relay just melted

that could it be because red ammeter wire was making some ground around at the moment you hooked them.

check for continuity before feed, between Red ammeter wire and any of those extra eyelet terminals

[cudadude013]

Thanks Nacho, 

I really appreciate all your help. I'm going to try your suggestions as soon as I get off work. I'm just trying to wire it to the point that I can start it from the inside and I'll worry about the rest when I get there.

[Nacho-RT74]

honetsly IMHO I see your wiring pretty much healthy with just that weird splice. I hope mine was in that way LOL.

I see on what I think is the turning switch harness a cut wire... what color it is ?

beside that also see a loosen prong attached to a female terminal, on an orange wire ( pretty much sure is something of cluster lighting net ).

[Hoggywood]

Read my thread on ammeter wire, Hoggywood. don't just tape the two ammeter wires together, use a covered elec. connector.  might cause a fire if you don't