Need engine recommendations

[runningman]

Hopefully you guys can help me out on choosing a good cam for my engine as well as any other machine work that would be helpful.  Here are some of the receipts I got when I picked up the car.  Thanks!

[runningman]

another

[runningman]

more

[runningman]

my intake Weiand #8009 that has been modified

[runningman]

pic of exhaust ports on the heads 2843906-9

[runningman]

Pistons that were installed are different from what is listed on the receipt.  They are SpeedPro L2295F.  Right now I have 3.23 gearing and would like to keep it until I eventually get gear vendors.  I have 1 7/8 TTI ceramic coated headers and 2 1/2" x-pipe exhaust from TTI as well.  Car currently has a low stall converter (I think it is 1800-2000) and the MP .509 hyd cam. 

[firefighter3931]

Matt, a couple of questions if i may :

(1) What carburator do you have for this engine

(2) Does the car have power brakes

(3) Are you willing to swap out the torque converter

(4) What rear end gears do you plan on going with in the future

(5) were the heads bowl ported after the oversize valve installation

Some comments :

(1) The cam is too big for the stall speed and rear end gearing. It must be quite the pooch out of the hole 

(2) The intake manifold is fine....don't sweat it. 





Ron

[runningman]

Ron, sorry I forgot about the carb info.  It has an 800cfm Holley double pumper.  I have a manual SSBC disc brake set up to install.  I am willing to swap out anything that you recommend doing  .  Thinking of going with 3.91 gears at some point.  I am not sure about the head machining work.  The prior owner of my car had all that work done.  Engine only has around 400 miles on it since.  Yes it is a dog out of the hole........my 91 New Yorker is quicker 

[firefighter3931]

Yes it is a dog out of the hole........my 91 New Yorker is quicker 

Well that's not a surprise....too much cam, not enough stall or gear.  The 509 likes lots of stall and gear to work well...and it's still a pain in the azz to tune. 

Ok, so what are you looking for ? Mainly a cruiser build ? Street/strip bruiser ?

You have the adjustable valvetrain so are you open to a solid cam ?

What's the budget ?



Ron

[runningman]

Ron,  I would like a cruiser that I can take to the strip every now and then and not be embarassed.  I am open to a solid cam but most of the guys at work are telling me to stay away because I will be making adjustments a lot.  I would like to match everything as best as possible and hopefully not have to put too much more $$ into it.  I am hoping to stay under 1,000 or so.  I will need a big chunk to have the final bodywork and paint done at the end of the year.  Not sure when I will be changing the gearing so if I had change out the cam again for whenever that occurs that will be fine.  Thanks!  Matt

[runningman]

Ron, I am not opposed to spending more I guess..........if my wife lets me 

[firefighter3931]

Ron,  I would like a cruiser that I can take to the strip every now and then and not be embarassed.  I am open to a solid cam but most of the guys at work are telling me to stay away because I will be making adjustments a lot.  I would like to match everything as best as possible and hopefully not have to put too much more $$ into it.  I am hoping to stay under 1,000 or so.  I will need a big chunk to have the final bodywork and paint done at the end of the year.  Not sure when I will be changing the gearing so if I had change out the cam again for whenever that occurs that will be fine.  Thanks!  Matt

No problems with a solid cam....usually the lash needs adjusted once a year and it takes 30 minutes or so to do it. 

For your combo i like the Comp XS274S extreme energy solid.  I would use the EDM solid lifters with priority cam lobe oiling and a good additive package that has zinc/phosphorus in it (EOS or Comp breakin additive). A good oil like VR1 20/50 valvoline and a Napa Gold/Wix oil filter.

The PTC 11in 2800 stall street converter would be my choice with the outlined combo.

The 800 DP holley is fine. 

This will all come in below your 1k budget and improve the drivability of your car significantly. Off idle power will be strong and it'll be a tire frier. This cam should make good power right up to 5800 rpm or so....which is where your heads will start to fall off anyway.

Once you add the 3.91's things will get really fun ! 



Ron

[runningman]

Ron, great thanks!.  You don't think any additional head work is necessary?  Would Summit be the best place to get these parts?  Thanks again!  Matt

[runningman]

One more thing I forgot to mention, the engine builder said the compression ratio was around 10.5 to 1.  You probably already know that from the piston choice though

[firefighter3931]

One more thing I forgot to mention, the engine builder said the compression ratio was around 10.5 to 1.  You probably already know that from the piston choice though

I figured as much based on the 2295 pistons....so you need to pull some static compression out of it to help with the pump gas issue. I'm gonna recommend a thick Felpro gasket with a larger bore diameter and compressed thickness. The 1039's are almost 14cc volume and seal up nice :

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1039&autoview=sku


The XS274S solid cam will work fine with your current valve springs and timing chain set (single bolt upper gear) and that is one of the reasons i selected it ; for minimal installation hassles. These extreme energy grinds are also very strong performers and make killer torque....and this one is the right size (duration) for your combo :

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D21%2D231%2D4&autoview=sku

You'll need different pushrods for the mechanical cam : pn 105-1009

http://www.440source.com/pushrods.htm

The EDM lifters with priority lobe oiling :

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=91718


I would use the felpro 1215 intake gasket set that blocks the heat crossover. This keeps the carb and intake cooler and prevents vapor lock in the hot weather :

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1215&autoview=sku


Call John  at CRT and tell him you want a 2800 stall 11in PTC converter ($250.00) and he will ask you for engine details so have the info handy when you order it :

https://www.coperacingtrans.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=5f3a34148f7b3e8512db89f31a382ed8

* ask about upgrading the flexplate & bolts while you are speaking with him 


That should get you started for now. When it's up and running we can work on the tuneup for maximum performance. 




Ron

[Runner]

hey ron, rvoyles on moparts found that with the howards edm lifters his hydrolic pushtubes were the right length.... something to check in to before laying down the cash.   

[runningman]

Ron, thanks alot for all the info.  The guy at work that is going to help me has some relatives that own a machine/engine building shop.  I gave him all the info and he said he can probably get me all the parts 25% off through his distributor  I will be able to go over his house and help him so I get some hands on engine work also.  He says he can gasket match the exhaust ports on the heads for around 100-$125 for both.  Is this necessary?  I thought I remembered reading somewhere that depending on the engine combo this could be detrimental.  Thanks again!

[runningman]

hey ron, rvoyles on moparts found that with the howards edm lifters his hydrolic pushtubes were the right length.... something to check in to before laying down the cash.   

I can have him check on these as well......Thanks!

[firefighter3931]

hey ron, rvoyles on moparts found that with the howards edm lifters his hydrolic pushtubes were the right length.... something to check in to before laying down the cash.   

Mike, i read that thread and Rob ended up using a 9.125 pushrod with the edm lifters in his 440. The 9.125 is the correct length for a hyd cam with adjustable rocker arms. The standard mechanical lifter uses a 9.25 pushrod which would be too long with the EDM lifters which place the cup higher in the lifter body so that usually means a custom pushrod....

But....Rob's heads were milled .050 so taking that into consideration ; someone using an unmilled head would need 9.125 + .050 = 9.175

The 440 Source pushrods measure 9.180 so that's close enough. Of course the best way to do it would be to mock up and measure with a checking pushrod but if the heads  are unmilled these 440source pieces should work...and save Matt some cash.   


Ron

[firefighter3931]

Ron, thanks alot for all the info.  The guy at work that is going to help me has some relatives that own a machine/engine building shop.  I gave him all the info and he said he can probably get me all the parts 25% off through his distributor  I will be able to go over his house and help him so I get some hands on engine work also.  He says he can gasket match the exhaust ports on the heads for around 100-$125 for both.  Is this necessary?  I thought I remembered reading somewhere that depending on the engine combo this could be detrimental.  Thanks again!

Matt, don't waste any funds on port matching the exhaust. 

Have him check the intake port alignment and correct if need be 


Ron

[runningman]

Will do........thanks a bunch! 

[Runner]

ohh ok  i see what your taking about with the pushtubes.....       i dont know how nice they are but from the pics, the 440 source pushtubes look "rough" compared to the crane chromemoly stuff im using.   the ends look like the machining ist as fine.    might just be the pics though.

[runningman]

Ron, I ordered my cam and lifters yesterday.  The cam is on backorder for a couple of weeks.  I started looking at the gaskets and I can get them a little cheaper than the quote I got from the guy that is helping me out the build.  I am going to call Summit and have them add them to my order.  Can you recommend a good set of valve cover gaskets that will be good for my application?  Also do you have a preference for other gaskets? (oil pan and timing cover).  Thanks again!

Matt

[firefighter3931]

Ron, I ordered my cam and lifters yesterday.  The cam is on backorder for a couple of weeks.  I started looking at the gaskets and I can get them a little cheaper than the quote I got from the guy that is helping me out the build.  I am going to call Summit and have them add them to my order.  Can you recommend a good set of valve cover gaskets that will be good for my application?  Also do you have a preference for other gaskets? (oil pan and timing cover).  Thanks again!

Matt

Matt, i've allways used the felpro gaskets with ultra copper high temp sealant. On the Valvecover gaskets i just seal them to the valvecover and let the rtv set up overnight before torqueing them down. The rubber gaskets are what i use (not cork)

On the oilpan and timing cover i use sealant on both sides of the gasket and just snug them up while allowing the rtv to setup then tighten down later...works for me. 


Ron

[runningman]

Okay, that's what I will do..........Thanks again!