Zo's 70 Charger Project

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Alright Guys,

Tomorrow is going to be a busy day. I'm going to primer a few of the parts and hopefully knock some dents out. I just got my new toy today and I can wait to abuse it. I hope I don't screw things up

[Charger-Bodie]

Alright Guys,

Tomorrow is going to be a busy day. I'm going to primer a few of the parts and hopefully knock some dents out. I just got my new toy today and I can wait to abuse it. I hope I don't screw things up

Nice!! 

[troy.70R/T]

glad to see you bought a fender you won't regret it. I was wondering if I can ask how much you paid for the valance. just because I have a mint one that I was going to sell and was just wondering what they are going for. Also I see your charger has slots on it If your interested in selling or trading them and they are 15x8.5 non unilugs I would be interested.

[69*F5*SE]

Filler over bare metal or epoxy will work but here's a good link to show the differences in adhesion.  Although, this is not where I based my opinion but I agree with the results...  It's worth reading.

http://autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml

[Charger-Bodie]

Filler over bare metal or epoxy will work but here's a good link to show the differences in adhesion.  Although, this is not where I based my opinion but I agree with the results...  It's worth reading.

http://autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml

Yeah Ive seen that "test" before and that epoxy test failed because it was not cured properly. The solvents were still trying te get out of the epoxy and aided him in the belif that he had going into the so called test.

But all that aside , many people do thing differant than one and another , and both methods work so go with what you like! 

[69*F5*SE]

I respect your viewpoint

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

So I wasn't able to prime some parts this past weekend.   I put some work in the new fender I got. There is one section near that front that needs a bit of work on it and its been kicking my ass trying to get it correct. It a good size fold in the metal that was never really work back into shape. It also had a hole that was filled with some type of led that I knocked out to try to reshape . I used the stud gun to try to remove the fold, but that sucker barely even moved. My next move is to hit it with a torch and see if I can work it that way. If not, theres two other options that I don't want to attempt. One would be to remove the headlight bracket thats connected to the fender(with spotwelds) and get access to try to knock it out from the back. My second option would be to cut the piece out and replace it with the metal from my original fender(pic above). That same section on my original fender is in good shape. Well tomorrow is another day and hopefully I get it closer to taking the dent out. 

[terrible one]

Man I'm pretty sure Mopar Action had a little article about a repair of that EXACT spot with a '70 Charger fender. . . it was blue. . . I'll see if I can find it.

[Todd Wilson]

Put some bondo on it!   



Todd

[MoParMetal]

Man I'm pretty sure Mopar Action had a little article about a repair of that EXACT spot with a '70 Charger fender. . . it was blue. . . I'll see if I can find it.

it was mopar muscle and it was a 70 superbee fender

i was reading it yesterday

[PocketThunder]

  damn dude keep up the good work.  and i thought i was going to have a hell of a time with the metal work on my Charger...   

[terrible one]

Man I'm pretty sure Mopar Action had a little article about a repair of that EXACT spot with a '70 Charger fender. . . it was blue. . . I'll see if I can find it.

it was mopar muscle and it was a 70 superbee fender

i was reading it yesterday

No I am positive it was a '70 Charger fender. This was probably about half a year ago?

[MoParMetal]

yes it was. its i believe b5 blue. the front has a huge dent on the front of it? a passenger side fender?

yea it was bee fender. its editor boligs' 70 bee.

[terrible one]

yes it was. its i believe b5 blue. the front has a huge dent on the front of it? a passenger side fender?

yea it was bee fender. its editor boligs' 70 bee.

Drivers side.

[MoParMetal]

yes it was. its i believe b5 blue. the front has a huge dent on the front of it? a passenger side fender?

yea it was bee fender. its editor boligs' 70 bee.

Drivers side.

touche...touche 

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Here it is.


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0712_dodge_super_bee_dent_repair/index.html

[terrible one]

Damn! 

[MoParMetal]

Damn! 

[Dodge Don]

    Was that car parked on the moon during a meteorite shower? You have alot of bodywork ahead of you.

[Finn]

Any updates on this??

[69*F5*SE]

Yeah, I've been wondering the same thing.   

[superbirdtom]

Filler over bare metal or epoxy will work but here's a good link to show the differences in adhesion.  Although, this is not where I based my opinion but I agree with the results...  It's worth reading.

http://autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>>>

this test is rediculous. First you need to use some self etch wash primer. then you epoxy over that. then wait 24 hours before you skim coat your car. then wait two days before you start sanding. it is amazing how much difference this all makes. I have seen too much bondo come right off bare metal in my time. .. I restored a 49 buick special ,the idiot owner then fiddled with the fuel line going into the carb it came off going down the road and the whole front end was a burnt crisp. we saw it coming back to the shop( rich's street rods in maltby wa )on a flatbed two weeks after it left. good lord we were peeved. anyway the guy says I have a car show to make in two weeks, this was the closest think I ever faced compaired to one of these phony deadline chip foose type shows. the whole shop jumped on it and we made the show in 2 weeks.. but my point here is I had used self etch primer- then  epoxy then the filler. well the filler was burnt but didn't come off .I used stripper wheels to remove some filler from areas that had it then used stripper on all the parts . well the stripper would not take the etch primer off period ,it becomes part and is imbedded into the metal.  it all had to be sanded off. I have had this experience in aircraft painting .

The aerospatial a-star helicopters from france are primed with self etch. then another primer then painted . good lord this stuff is a nightmare to take off. I had to use acid stripper which is a dull pink.  the yello aircraft stripper everyone has seen at the parts store is like so weak I could wash my hands in it , compared to the acid stripper . it took 4 applicatons of acid stripper and a week of torture to strip that copter.    and its the same for any car you use a good wash primer on before you epoxy it. and rage gold sucks as a filler in my opinion. its crapo.    anyway thats how I do my restos> self etch-dp-50 epoxy then whatever over that

[b5blue]

WOW!Can you recommend any specific products?What about large areas of surface rust(I E roof).I'm in Fl. and the sun/heat and humidity is very strong!I see bondo failing to hold up because the metal expands away from it, I think I like your approach, I payed a guy to epoxy prime my roof and told him "no bondo  or filler" but he just could not resist filling in seams and spotting a few small rust holes (along with sandblasting my glass!).

[superbirdtom]

this is a whole nother ball of wax and that is SCORCHING HEAT!! . I am from fridgid country, when I did move to L.A. to persue a music career. it was in 1978. moved to bakersfield where my cousins lived. lord talk about hot . anyway I never saw bondo dry so fast ever, up here you have to use more hardner cause of the climate.   The sun can be so brutal on a cars finish. when I went to phoenix ariz I have never seen so many vinal tops flapping in the wind and dash boards with 20 cracks in them. then up here its the opposite the trucks running around have the bedsides flapping like an eagle ready to take off. If you use more than an eighth inch of bondo and it is going to sit in direct sunlight you will have problems . if you use a half inch  it wll eventually split if on top surfaces. , lead will not do this. maybe an option

[b5blue]

WE THINK THE SAME!Any dealings with Eastwoods lead free body solder?It's a tin/copper/zinc alloy.