Zo's 70 Charger Project

[terrible one]

I found I passenger side Qp. Has lower rust issue, but looks in good shape. The guy is giving me a good price for it. Can anyone tell me if this would work for me? It looks like I have to buy a patch panel for the bottom. 

You could use that, but on top of that you would have to buy a patch panel for it or have a bodyman do all of it, and then you might be close to the price of a new AMD quarter . . .

[Ghoste]

And that's the beauty of the AMD panels.  It's going to make it a lot harder for the used sheet metal market to charge what they could for a panel a couple of years ago.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Well his selling it to me for about $150 and I think the patch is around $120 online( $270 total). A full Qp cost more then $700. I'm just waiting for some more pics. Hopefully I can make it work somehow.

[troy.70R/T]

hey socal that QP in the pic is not even cut at the factory seem along the sail panel. If you are doing the work yourself it will be easier for you to put on a full quarter. You will also have alot less time into it (I don't know how much you time is worth) If you can buy a full quarter for 700 do it and let me know wher I can get some for that price. I just think after it is all said and done you wiil be happier if you buy the new quarter. just rying to save you alot of time and agrivation.

[troy.70R/T]

Socal I also feel for you on the fender. I would spend the money to find a decent used one Even if it has some rust on the bottom. but lookit over good on the inside. the inside always tells the true story on any panel. make sure there is no rust where that brace is on the top of the fender where the fender and door meet (where the top of the fender meets the cowl) there is also a spot buy the headlight mounting where they can rust. You may also want to consider buying one of those tools that can tell you wether or not there is bondo present in a panel I believe the tool is called  a spot rot tool    any autobdy paint store should have on or know where you can get on in fact I believe that there  is one in Eastwoods magazine. They are around $20.00 I believe. small enough to always carry in your glovebox. spending 250.00 on a nice fender will be well worth the money.

[troy.70R/T]

by the way socal the body line on the fender is very hard to fix right. look at a good one it also bulges out along the fender and up and down. run your hand along your good one and your bad one to see if you can tell what I am saying. It is very hard to get this shape back once the frnder had been caved in. along the top of the fender there should also be a body line that runs from the front to almost allthe way back but it dissapears before it gets to the end of the fender. the tpo of the fender is also concave. Just something else to consider if your going to fix it. hope this helps you

[BigBlockSam]

 

[MoParMetal]

how are you coming along zo?

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

MoParMetal,

I Just finishes sanding everything down to bare metal. I was lucky enough to find a driver side fender in real good shape for $300. Only problem is its in Colorado, so that adds another $100+ for the shipping which I cant complain because I called MR Darrel Finch who's only 2 hours away to see if he had any in stock. Well he did, but at a cost of $1,000 each I almost  after I heard that price. Any who, I'm not sure what to do next with the parts that are all sanded down. Do I primer them first? or do I try to get them all straight? Someone please point me in the right direction.

[Charger-Bodie]

....epoxy primer.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Which one it the best to use?

[Charger-Bodie]

they are all good but I use U-Tech , Omni is fine too.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Hey Guys,

I know its been a while, but I'm reporting good news. I managed to find a new Driver Side Fender and valance in real good shape at a awesome price. I'm still in the process of stripping them down naked. but so far I'm enjoying what I'm finding NO BONDO!!!!!!  Here are pics of the new pieces.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Valance old one and NEW YOUNGER ONE

[NMike]

isn't it nice how spending a few extra bucks make the whole project seem smaller.

[69*F5*SE]

Well, I'm glad to see something's working out for you.  When saw the original post with pics my heart sank.  I felt so bad for what you found underneath the primer. Someone really stuck it to you and they'll get theirs one day.  I believe in karma and they will have to deal with what gets dished out to them eventually.  Anyhoo, I'm glad to see that you're getting some things together for the car. Good luck, you'll need it.    Ted

[Finn]

I called MR Darrel Finch who's only 2 hours away

He's about an hour and a half away from me, where are you located at?

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Ventura, CA. Why do you ask?

[Finn]

aha doi lol.
Well I'm in Santa Clarita Valley (other side of the 126) so just let me know if you want me to keep an eye out for parts or anything.

[dpm68]

Wow Zo, that sure looks like a lot of work - good luck. I bought my 68 from a guy in Colorado also - where in CO is yours from? Mine is from Granby near Grand Lake and this guy has several of them and is a bit on the shady side, as he kept the tic-toc that was in it after telling me he would deliver it to me in the exact condition that I last saw it in and that he "would not take anything off..." yea, right.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

DPM68,

I got my from Cherry Creek I think the guys name was James. To my knowledge that was the only charger he had, but hey you never know. 

Question  I just got my epoxy primer today. Does the body work need to be complete before the primer is applied or after? 

[Charger-Bodie]

DPM68,

I got my from Cherry Creek I think the guys name was James. To my knowledge that was the only charger he had, but hey you never know. 

Question  I just got my epoxy primer today. Does the body work need to be complete before the primer is applied or after? 

Either way works for many people.....I prefer epoxy then body work, the spot th epoxy again where you broke thru doing the body.

[SoCal Zo (.)(.)]

Will Body Filler stick to primer as well as bare metal? 

[69*F5*SE]

Filler will stick to bare metal much better than it will to primer.  Although, it will stick to epoxy primer fairly well.  But, try to keep the filler on prepared bare metal for best adhesion. Some people may argue the fact but it'll stick to prepared bare metal much better. You can use 3m's dry guide coat on your filler to get it where you need it very well before build primer. Then you  can guide coat your build primer for even better results. 

[Charger-Bodie]

Filler actually adheres BETTER to epoxy than it does to bare metal, plus the epoxy will seal weld etc. ALOT better which makes the repair last far longer.