Removing 8.75 chunk, Can I do it myself on the floor?

[WH23G3G]

I'm done with the front end on my 73 now on to the rear end. I plan on removing the chunk taking it to a driveline specialist and having him check out the internals. Then I'm going to put new grease seals on and hopefully that's it. I've got the brakes stripped down and the axle shafts out. I've got the car up on 4 jackstands. Will I be able to get under and remove the chunk myself safely? I've never removed one. Is it over 80lbs? I of course will be removing it myself so I'll have to figure out a way to get it out myself. Any suggestions on an easy way to remove it. I don't have any fancy transmission jacks to help. Just a good floor jack.

[RECHRGD]

Well, I've done it by myself before when I was a few years younger.  They are HEAVY but you can do it.  Just be ready for the weight when you slide it off the axle housing.  Your in the ballpark with the 80 pound estimate.   Bob

[Chatt69chgr]

I took one out at a junkyard by myself and I had a bad back that day.  I found an old plastic dishpan and blanket in the back of a van in the junkyard and after pulling the axles and getting the driveshaft off, I took all the bolts loose leaving one at the top so the thing wouldn't come out until I wanted it to.  Then I used a screwdriver to pry apart the pig from the housing and let the oil drain out.  Next, I reached in and carefully took off the last nut and then with gentle prying at the top, the whole thing dropped into the washpan.  Just reached under and slid the thing out.  Perfect condition.  The prize was the plate type suregrip which is what I was after (the pig was a 742).   Let me have the whole thing for $100.  Good thing I got it when I did as they crushed the whole junkyard about a year later.  There was still some stuff down there I would have like to get but its on it's way to China now. 

[Mike DC]

Yeah, there's nothing special about the job.  These guys have covered it. 

Just be prepared to get a lot of oil draining out.  And then like they said, the iron pig itself is heavy enough to warrant a floor jack just to lower it down.

[2Gunz]

I just did mine myself, and without a lift.

Getting it down isnt an issue, i was able to pull it off with my hands and guide it down.

Reinstalling is the trick.

I attempted to pick it up and put it back on.....

I could pick it up but not with enough control that I could put it back in the bolts.

I ended up using a floor jack. It wasnt a picnic, but its on and I still have all my fingers.

Make sure you replace the Pinion seal while you have the Driveshaft off. I forgot

to and had to redo it.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm doing it... pretty easy really if you have the right tools, bearing extractor and if possible air dril to remove the pinion nut ( damn that thing was TIGHT on mine )

[The70RT]

What is the trick on tightening the pinion nut after you put in the new seal?

[2Gunz]

I just put the rear tires down, blocked the tires and turned like hell.

Unfortunatly I had to take it off again to do the pinion seal.

And getting it off the second time REALLY sucked.

[John_Kunkel]

What is the trick on tightening the pinion nut after you put in the new seal?

If it's a 741 or 742 it's just a matter of tightening the nut real tight, if it's a 489 there's more top it than that.

[2Gunz]

I just put in a 489 from a 741, and I didnt see any difference 

[The70RT]

I just put in a 489 from a 741, and I didnt see any difference 

I did a GM a while back and I can't recall....someting like how much drag it has / force to turn everything?

[2Gunz]

huh?

[firefighter3931]

What is the trick on tightening the pinion nut after you put in the new seal?

If it's a 741 or 742 it's just a matter of tightening the nut real tight, if it's a 489 there's more to it than that.

John is referring to the rear yoke torque specs....not mounting the pig into the housing. The 489 housings use a collapsable crush sleeve and the torque applied to the pinion nut creates the proper amount of preload to set the backlash. The 741/742 cases use a solid spacer that does not collapse so once the backlash is set (with shims) you simply torque the pinion nut to spec.

There are solid spacer kits available for the 489 housing to eliminate the collapsable crush sleeve. 



Ron