aftermarket shifters

[Cooperman]

The factory shifter in my '68 Charger is worn. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket replacement shifter by the likes of B&M, Hurst or Lokar?
Anyone have a preference over cable and rod operated? I guess cable is more flexible(!) on location...
I really want to keep my factory console and a neutral safety switch would be an advantage! 

Anyone know if this would work? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D80775&N=700+400004+115&autoview=sku

Thanks for your help. 

[Mefirst]

I did a change of shifter about 2 years ago. Mounted a Hurst V-Matic ratchet shifter into the stock console... Worked out great and the job took only about half a day...



First you have to cut out the stock shifter mounting bracket.. (NOTE! -It would be a good idea to take out the carpet before you start cutting, or have a fire extinguisher near by)



Locate the new shifter sweet spot placement, the placement of the console is secondary (I did switch sides then i tested where the shifter felt most comfortable)



Weld the bolt heads into the transhump/floor... I welded the bolt heads onto the floor, that way its easy to mount the shifter... (NOTE! -Measure and mark the spot, again a good idea to NOT have the carpet in the car while your welding!!!)



This is what youll end up with...



Now comes the console, you have to make new brackets for it. You also have to take the shifter appart so you can stick the shifter through the console lid. You also have to make the hole in the lid where the shifter comes through, larger, just use a file so the shifter will move freely from P to 1st....

/Tom

[Runner]

why not just get a better stock shifter, or rebiuld yours?    someone sells a plate that alows a guy to convert an earlier shifter into a slapstick.        the factory slapstick is the best shifter ive used in a street/strip car.  the mechanical linkage wont leave ya in a bind when the shifter cable is melted .   most aftermarket shifters have the cable run from the front and right next to the headers on a mopar.   

[Mefirst]

....most aftermarket shifters have the cable run from the front and right next to the headers on a mopar.

This is true. You do have to figure out how to route the shifter cable away from the heat from the headers, a good idea is to cover the cable with a heat resistent tape or something similar... Thats how I did it, and I have not had any problems...

/Tom

[Cooperman]

Thanks for the photos and description Tom. Great job. 

I'm all for keeping the original assembly. I have a buddy who swears by aftermarket shifters, but he's a GM guy, so what does he know! 
The base of my factory lever is cracked around the pivot and the linkage bushings are worn. Thers's nearly an inch of movement before anything happens!!

Another plan was to repair the lever and use a couple of 1/4" rose joints to replace the shifter control linkage.
I'll try that and see if I can make it work before I change it out. Thanks again fellas. 

[Runner]

http://www.beaparts.com/showlargeimage.aspx?id=114-69KIT&filetype=largeimage  brand new shifter from b/e&a http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=b&cat=none       195 dollars, around what youll pay for an afternarket shifter.        the slap stick is so easy to use and it will do anything an aftermarket shifter will do, with out the hasles.     i cant seem to find the guy that makes the gate to make the ealier shifters into a slapstik but if your interested in going that route ill look harder.   

[Runner]

ahhh i found it.....  let me say first off that ive never tried these  but for 30 bucks if i had a non slapstik id give it a try. http://www.duncan-motor-sports.com/prod01.htm