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Reproduction 68 charger quarters and fenders???

Started by StockMan, March 09, 2008, 09:12:20 PM

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StockMan


Just curious if anyone has fitted a set of these?  Are they 18 or 20 gauge?  Are the body lines as sharp as the factory?

Thanks.


Finn

I just put new quarters on mine, got them from the absolute coolest mopar salvage yard by where I live.
They were pretty good quality. Needed a shrinker/stretcher to match the body curves/lines though so watch out for that.
Edit: I just checked the stickers on them and they say "quality reproduction panels" some numbers and "made in Taiwan" lol  ::)

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

hemi-hampton

I'd be pissed off If I bought a so called Quality 1/4 panel & then had to use a Shrinker/Strecher to modify body lines. Sounds like a peice of crap made in taiwan peice to me, or Shermans, or both. PLUS, How many people out there have or use a Shrinker/Strecher, not many, not like you can buy it at any local hardware store & carry it around in your back pocket like a screwdriver? LEON.

Finn

yeah it was a pain in the ass, But since they were local I got them on the car in the next two days without having to pay 150+ bucks for truck freight.

My friend that helped me with the panels had the shrinker/stretcher so I got lucky on that.

Needless to say if I had found this site earlier I could have saved myself quite a bit of money.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

StockMan


I was curious about the full quarters, they go right up to the top.  They just started making them, and they are for sale on ebay for 1400.+

Troy

DodgeDon has the quarters on his car (1970) and so does xs29j8Bullitt (1969). The fenders aren't available yet.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

Finn

Is there a link to the full quarters anywhere?
I'm curious as to what they look like.
The guy I bought the car from said his brother had found full quarters online but I never found them...

thanks
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

StockMan


I see them on ebay all the time.  They are in the process of making front fenders as well.  18 gauge!

Finn

Yeah I emailed a company and he said they were in the process of making the front fenders. He quoted me roughly 600 bucks a fender
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

StockMan


Around what you pay for a partially decent original one...

LeeBoy

Quote from: Finn on March 13, 2008, 04:53:47 PM
Is there a link to the full quarters anywhere?
I'm curious as to what they look like.
The guy I bought the car from said his brother had found full quarters online but I never found them...

thanks
here you go. http://www.autometaldirect.com/listing.php?listingid=114&pageid=117
                   http://www.classicbodydesigns.com/products.html
Both of these company's are making these.
My 68 Charger build http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,41318.0.html
2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, 2005 HEMI Ram( totaled with only 27,000 miles on it!), 1977 Power Wagon (Sold), 1977 Plymouth Trailduster, 1974 360 Cuda, 1973 Satellite Sebring Plus, 1973 D200 Adventurer Sport, 1968 Charger (sold), 1965 Dart (sold)

StockMan


I used a set of skins from 'GoodMark'.  The full quarters were not available at that time or I would have jumped all over them.  The skins I used are 20 gauge which was the one downside.  They fit very well and required no shrinking or stretching (Although I've never heard of this??) and the holes were punched in the correct places and the body lines were fairly sharp.  They were 200.00 a peice.

If I were to go back and do this again I would have cut the old quarter off below the top.  I cut mine a 1/2 inch on the top side for two reasons, I thought it would be easier to do the body work on the smaller surface area, and you don't see the line from the trunk side.  The original bend up there is much sharper that the after market panel.  Going on the side gives you more room to move when lining up your outer wheel housings, which usually need to be freshened up as well.

And, if you decide to section the panel in just before the door jam, make sure you have your door mounted to you can monitor the gap from the jam to the edge of the door.  A very small flex in the jam from the welding on the panel can create a very slight movement here which ends up being quite noticeable later.  Where the quarter wraps on the jam is a nice area to stay away from if you can.


Finn

Those are pretty cool, thanks for the link. I didn't need full quarters, in fact I could have just patched the bottom but I figured I might as well replace the whole thing now. I made the cut just under the bend at the top, I'm not on my regular computer but I can put pictures up later if anyone wants to see them.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Mike DC

 
With the Goodmark stuff (along with most other repro musclecar sheetmetal), the difference isn't just the thickness of the panels.  It's mostly the metallurgy of the newer steel being softer than the orignals.   


StockMan


I found that it was harder to punch a hole in the 20 gauge.