L@@King to buy car trailer

[chgr500]

I'm looking to buy an open car trailer....I want to haul full size car and maybe the Charger....I only have a 1/2 ton truck with a 5.8 litre but is a strong truck....so what do and dont's for trailers..it'll be tandem axle with electric brakes....5-6K GVW?..I like the idea of having an open centre to keep any weight down...16 or 18' ..dove tail? ....any one have pics or suggestions?

[justin1987]

Here are pictures of my car trailer. It is an 18 foot trailer with a 4 foot dovetail. The ramps are 5 feet. It has brakes on one axle (which I kind of regret not getting them on both) and a breakaway box.

[no318]

That looks like a Terry's trailer from OK. city.  That is what mine is.  VERY similar.  I have had 2 of his and am sold on them.  My opinion is
1.  get an 18ft (16 + 2 ft dove tail or 14+4 ft dovetail)
2.  solid steel floor
3.  most with 5 lug wheels are 7k lb.  That is a minimum to me.

[justin1987]

That looks like a Terry's trailer from OK. city.

That's exactly where it's from. 

My dad and I shopped for weeks around Oklahoma to find a good trailer and Terry's trailers were the best price and the best quality.

[Arkgl01]

Make sure you get a rock gard on the front! it really helps! 

[Troy]

Mine is 18' total with a 5' dovetail and 5' ramps so loading a car is very easy. I had problems on other trailers in the past with the Chargers getting "hung up" because they are so long (trans cross member would hit the back of the trailer). This one eliminates that possibility. It's a 7,000 pound trailer but, even though it's all steel, it only weighs 1,550 pounds due to the design. With a Charger loaded it's just over 5,000 pounds. It has removable fenders on both sides. It is very easy to crawl under to attach the straps and the ramps are very easy to store/remove. I like all the brakes I can get so I have brakes on both axles with a break-away box. It's made by H&H who are more famous for their tilt trailers and I paid right around $2,200 from a local dealer. The only things that I'd like to change are the location of the tie-down rings (or add more) and smoother ramps for when I have to push a car (too often unfortunately).











Troy

[justin1987]

Make sure you get a rock gard on the front! it really helps! 

Yes, that is a must. You wouldn't believe how many rock chips were on our rock guard after the first trip. I can only imagine what the front of the car would look like without the rock guard.

[694spdRT]

Nice trailer Troy. 

I would like to get one like yours at some point to replace our older steel tilt deck trailer.

[NHCharger]

Here's a pic of my 71 on my trailer. It's an 18' including the 2' dove tail. as you can see you don't want to go any smaller. in hind sight i should have bought a 20'. I haul my small backhoe and a lot of other assorted stuff, building materials, granite curbing, etc. so I like the PT deck for screwing down stops. Also I believe brakes on all four wheels are essential when your hauling a load like this, especially with a 1/2 ton.

[chgr500]

Here's a pic of my 71 on my trailer. It's an 18' including the 2' dove tail. as you can see you don't want to go any smaller. in hind sight i should have bought a 20'. I haul my small backhoe and a lot of other assorted stuff, building materials, granite curbing, etc. so I like the PT deck for screwing down stops. Also I believe brakes on all four wheels are essential when your hauling a load like this, especially with a 1/2 ton.

If you didn't have the tool box up front couldn't your car move ahead some safely? ....thatl Charger does l@@k rather large up there.....how much does your trailer weigh?

I really like the style and look of your trailer Troy ..and a sweet deal...23' though huh ..nice easy loader

Seems to be alot of diffences in construction on the trailers...basicly gauge of metal and axles...also having a hard time finding anything used.. ..I was inquiring about new aluminium trailer ...very nice only 985lbs dry weight for a 18' 7k GVW trailer ... $$$$    but outa my league...i was allowing to spend $2500 max. on something... Hmmm

[justin1987]

If you didn't have the tool box up front couldn't your car move ahead some safely? ....thatl Charger does l@@k rather large up there.....how much does your trailer weigh?

That would put too much weight at the front of the trailer. You want the weight to be centered over the axle as much as possible.

[Troy]

Here's a pic of my 71 on my trailer. It's an 18' including the 2' dove tail. as you can see you don't want to go any smaller. in hind sight i should have bought a 20'. I haul my small backhoe and a lot of other assorted stuff, building materials, granite curbing, etc. so I like the PT deck for screwing down stops. Also I believe brakes on all four wheels are essential when your hauling a load like this, especially with a 1/2 ton.

If you didn't have the tool box up front couldn't your car move ahead some safely? ....thatl Charger does l@@k rather large up there.....how much does your trailer weigh?

I really like the style and look of your trailer Troy ..and a sweet deal...23' though huh ..nice easy loader

Seems to be alot of diffences in construction on the trailers...basicly gauge of metal and axles...also having a hard time finding anything used.. ..I was inquiring about new aluminium trailer ...very nice only 985lbs dry weight for a 18' 7k GVW trailer ... $$$$    but outa my league...i was allowing to spend $2500 max. on something... Hmmm

It's only 18' - the dovetail takes up the rearmost 5'. I edited my post to make that clearer. For reference, the Barracuda is 15.5' long. Aluminum is not for the person on a budget! One like mine is in your price range and not much heavier than aluminum.

If you didn't have the tool box up front couldn't your car move ahead some safely? ....thatl Charger does l@@k rather large up there.....how much does your trailer weigh?

That would put too much weight at the front of the trailer. You want the weight to be centered over the axle as much as possible.

I disagree. You have to have weight on the tongue or it will be all squirrelly. I think the commonly accepted amount is about 10% of the trailer weight but that also depends on the tow vehicle. The dually doesn't really care but when I got the weight too far back when pulling a Charger with the Suburban it was a nightmare.

Troy

[chgr500]

I disagree. You have to have weight on the tongue or it will be all squirrelly. I think the commonly accepted amount is about 10% of the trailer weight but that also depends on the tow vehicle. The dually doesn't really care but when I got the weight too far back when pulling a Charger with the Suburban it was a nightmare.

Troy

...just like loading a car on a trailer backwards

[Troy]

I disagree. You have to have weight on the tongue or it will be all squirrelly. I think the commonly accepted amount is about 10% of the trailer weight but that also depends on the tow vehicle. The dually doesn't really care but when I got the weight too far back when pulling a Charger with the Suburban it was a nightmare.

Troy

...just like loading a car on a trailer backwards

Hey! I've done that. It makes more sense when your Charger doesn't have an engine though.

Troy

[MOPARHOUND!]

I bought one of these 4 years ago, at there Ozark, MO facility:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-18-4-Tilt-Car-Hauler-Flatbed-Cargo-Utility-Trailer_W0QQitemZ180219799055QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180219799055

Added several options: trailer brakes on both axles, 2-5/16" ball hitch, heavy duty dolly leg (semi-trailer style), stake pockets on 3 sides, removable fenders, extra strip of steel plate at the tilt bed's front for mounting an electric winch.

Most of the vehicles I haul are inoperable with flat tires. Don't have to fight keeping the ramps lined up with this style trailer, or fight getting over the "hump" where the ramps met the rear of the old trailer. I can remove the fenders to open the a car door if I need to, versus crawling out the window and leaving the window down driving down the highway like my old trailer.

The winch I mounted on the front of the tilt bed threw the gravity balance off. But no big deal, I just put a spare tire and my tool box on the other end to keep the bed tilted until the front tires of the vehicle to be hauled contact the bed. The tilt mechanism and design is incredibly simple, no hydraulics or slippery pavement to contend with to tilt the bed.

Carry a car battery with me, and some marine type terminals for quickly connecting/disconnecting to the winch cables. Need to permanently mount my car battery for powering the winch on the trailer, but don't have a welder (yet). In the meantime, I don't have to worry about the battery being stolen. Would also use the welder to add some weight to the loading end of the bed to compensate for the winch on the other end.

Debated buying the 12,000 lb version, versus the 7,000 lb version I did buy, but the 7,000 lb version has hauled everything I needed to in 4 years.

Pic of trailer with moparguy01's old yellow 74 Charger aboard, that's the world famous RD at the controls of the come-along:

[NHCharger]

If you didn't have the tool box up front couldn't your car move ahead some safely? ....thatl Charger does l@@k rather large up there.....how much does your trailer weigh?

I still have 2+ feet between the tool box and the front of the car. as mentioned it's all about balance. I pull/drive the car on until the rear of my van drops about 3", that's how i judge the tongue weight.
Can't remember how much my trailer weighs, but the rating is 7,000 lbs. for trailer and load.
Also I have found most used trailers are well used and over priced. I looked for a used trailer but for what everyone was asking I bought a new one for only a few hundred more than the beat up used ones.

[MOPARHOUND!]

Also I have found most used trailers are well used and over priced. I looked for a used trailer but for what everyone was asking I bought a new one for only a few hundred more than the beat up used ones.

I think mine was $1,800.00 initially 4 years ago, + the options and some negotiation, it came to $2,200.00.  Now $2,200.00 is the base price.

18 feet of the bed tilts, 4 feet is fixed. I haven't used the 4 feet of fixed much, but the little I have I was glad to have it.

Had been considering roll-back truck configurations, but decided the tags, property tax, and insurance would not be feasible given the amount of use I anticipated.

Like the setup alot, spec'd it the way I wanted it, and functions as I expected. Just have to use some common sense with the gravity tilt setup. Once you get to the point of the trailer tilting pass center, it can come down hard if you hurry, so you take it safe and easy loading and unloading.

I have a wooden "mini-side kit" I screwed together for use on occasion on the front and sides of the trailer, utilizing the stake pockets.  Keeps things from falling off the side and front of the trailer, as well as providing a degree of shielding for the vehicle being hauled from road grime and rocks.

Hauled a 440 powered '74 Dodge Club Cab with ease, winch positioning has came close to being in the way a couple of times, but has never prevented hauling a vehicle or caused problems to date.

[Tilar]

That's a damn nice trailer, Troy.   I just bought this one. I had to get a heavy duty one due to me hauling farm tractors to the fair. This one is made by PJ Trailers out of Paris, Texas. 14000 lb GVW. It has a 20 foot bed with a 2 foot dovetail. 5 foot Spring assisted ramps, Breakaway kit with charger Rubrail  which means you can hook your chains or straps anywhere other than where the fenders are.

Now I just have to upgrade my truck because I can hear my K2500 with the 305 cussing me out when I hook on to it.    Guess I shoulda bought a dodge with the cummins.