New Hollow Wing - One Off flip up headlights (update)

[1meanfish]

How much heavier is the hollow aluminum wing compared to a fiberglass wing, how much are they and who sells them?

I think I'd rather use an aluminum wing from what I've been reading for my application, I will drag race my car and it is my goal to have the car in the mid to high 7's which means I'll be crossing the traps at 180-190 mph+. Light weight is important too. Does any one make a fiberglass wing that would hold up at those speeds and not shake? Thanks.

[Blown70]

How much heavier is the hollow aluminum wing compared to a fiberglass wing, how much are they and who sells them?

I think I'd rather use an aluminum wing from what I've been reading for my application, I will drag race my car and it is my goal to have the car in the mid to high 7's which means I'll be crossing the traps at 180-190 mph+. Light weight is important too. Does any one make a fiberglass wing that would hold up at those speeds and not shake? Thanks.

I would think the Texas Big bird, or the Pro-mod daytona would be the people to ask.  I am not sure but you could use a Fiberglass just a lot of enforced a lot?

[hotrod98]

You will need to be sure and use the cables that run through the wing for safety. If that wing failed someone could be seriously injured or killed. The cable was mandatory on the stock cars.
Seems like you would be better off using a pro stock style wing. They're more efficient, cheaper, sturdier and a heck of a lot safer.
Just wouldn't look as cool.

[Daytona Guy]

It was hard work (design) at the front end, but the result is simplicity (workability) on the backend. I designed these so that one small bolt can be removed and the whole headlight door comes out. One side is a pilot, and the other is bolted in at the pivot point. Simple. Of course everything has been reinforced for durability. I did a test of 100 times of use by flipping them up and down with no wear and no failure. I did them different from my Red Daytona because of what I have learned. 

The nose got my first redo of my paint job. I am going "Lighting Yellow" (Mazda 2005) two stage. The rest of the car will be repainted within two months.

[moparstuart]

awesome

[hotrod98]

Dane, It occurred to me that a guy could also buy the aftermarket versions of these headlamps on ebay or elsewhere. The run around $80 or $90 including shipping. They're a little more high tech and I think that they're set up for some of the newer style brighter bulbs. That's what Year One is using on their new Bandit Trans Ams. I'm planning to use them on my 77 SE Trans Am in place of the dual rectangular sealed beams. I'll catch hell for converting an all original SE car.
I'm going to seriously look into your setup when I get time to start on my clone project. Looks so much better than the bugeyes.

[daytonalo]

Also know as Ford Zinc yellow , had a Mustang GT in that color

[BigBlockSam]

hey
lights look good . not my style at all . would look good on a custom . Rene

[moparstuart]

hey
lights look good . not my style at all . would look good on a custom . Rene

me too I want mine bug eyed

[hotrod98]

You guys plan on leaving the headlamps popped up most of the time I guess. Who's going to know. I'll take bright modern lights over those dimly lit bugeyes any day.
Dane could have posted 1000 pics of that car without you guys ever knowing what kind of lights that he had.
I applaud him for showing us the light...pun intended.   

[daytonalo]

Dimly lit ? If you wire them with relay they a far better than orig or how about a set of Silverstar bulbs , far brighter than stock . Or a step better , HID conversion for stock headlights , so what is it ?

Larry

[moparstuart]

You guys plan on leaving the headlamps popped up most of the time I guess. Who's going to know. I'll take bright modern lights over those dimly lit bugeyes any day.
Dane could have posted 1000 pics of that car without you guys ever knowing what kind of lights that he had.
I applaud him for showing us the light...pun intended.   

i think his solution is great i just prefer the stock look 

[hotrod98]

Dimly lit ? If you wire them with relay they a far better than orig or how about a set of Silverstar bulbs , far brighter than stock . Or a step better , HID conversion for stock headlights , so what is it ?

Larry

I must have adult ADD or a bad case of IDC lately.
I'm getting project burnout again. Must be those long days in the shop working on other guys projects.   

[moparstuart]

Dimly lit ? If you wire them with relay they a far better than orig or how about a set of Silverstar bulbs , far brighter than stock . Or a step better , HID conversion for stock headlights , so what is it ?

Larry

I must have adult ADD or a bad case of IDC lately.
I'm getting project burnout again. Must be those long days in the shop working on other guys projects.   

hey  no burn out or nervous break downs  before you even start on my car !!!

[BigBlockSam]

thats why mechanics usually have crappy cars. when you spend all day working on cars, the last thing you wanna do is spend your free time working on cars . Rene

[PocketThunder]

thats why mechanics usually have crappy cars. when you spend all day working on cars, the last thing you wanna do is spend your free time working on cars . Rene

Thats exactly why i didnt go to work for my dads shop, i only work on cars that are older than i am. 

[daytonalo]

I now do resto work full time , after a 10 hour day , the last thing I want to do is work on my hunk of shit !! What I do is reward myself and work on my car one day a week .

Larry

[moparstuart]

I now do resto work full time , after a 10 hour day , the last thing I want to do is work on my hunk of shit !! What I do is reward myself and work on my car one day a week .

Larry

it will never get done !

[hotrod98]

The only cars that I will work on are musclecars. I don't like pre 60 cars and I don't like post 79 model cars. I'm not so much burned out as I am frustrated at how long it's taking me to get my shop ready. Fortunately, the only thing left to do on the paint booth is cut the hole in the roof for the exhaust.
I did work until 9:30 last night removing the trunk floor from a 69 runner. So all is not lost and Stuart, we're still on for doing your car.
I just acquired a 70 Camaro Z28 this weekend that I plan to put together to use as a daily driver. It will have an LT1 and 4 speed auto from a wrecked 95 Z28 that I own.
I refuse to drive any of the mopars daily since I can't stand the thought of some clown hitting them. Camaros are nice cars to own and drive, but they're somewhat dispensable and certainly easy to get parts for.
I bet I catch hell for some of the things that I just wrote.

[Daytona Guy]

You guys plan on leaving the headlamps popped up most of the time I guess. Who's going to know. I'll take bright modern lights over those dimly lit bugeyes any day.
Dane could have posted 1000 pics of that car without you guys ever knowing what kind of lights that he had.
I applaud him for showing us the light...pun intended.   

True - I try to major on majors and minor on minors. I know I have time and I knew I wanted to get the car done and enjoy it. Then over time on the off season I perfect stuff. The headlights take a lot of time so I just cut the factory assembly off the fenders and mounted them behind the openings and made door covers and pulled tem off at night (Rarely used). Now they will look cool at night too.

I never liked the way the nose was mounted from the factory. I understand why they had to mount them as a steal nose, but totally unnecessary when a glass nose is used. These glass noses are WAY less weight than the metal ones. The way I mount mine I had my nose off in less than 30 minutes and it will go back on in the exact place with no adjustments. I had my nose on for 4 years and driven weekly and sometimes daily at some good speeds and after further investigation before I painted it – passed with flying colors with no stress.  The originals are held up from the bottom and the top is supported by bracing (Z brackets) while the latch tray holds it in place. Mine is help up predominantly from the top and supported at the bottom, this way the sides (that will Coe-flow) will not bow in time under stress.

[daytonalo]

I mounted my nose to the inside of fenders , 99% of people look at it with no Z-braces and wonder how I attached it ! I still use z-braces , mostly for factory look and to funnel air into rad . From the outside it looks stock, and the nose to fender gap never , ever moves , it was a ton of work but worth it