Steering box

[terrible one]

Alright, I've got a few questions for you guys. Firstly, I'm on a pretty strict budget, but if the body of my car is going to be shitty, I want it to be beautiful in function. So far, I'm throwing in a fully rebuilt engine and transmission, new brakes, brake lines, MC, etc., new suspension components front and back, and that's about it.

That being said, my steering is pretty sloppy. I haven't had any experiences in it besides turning and pushing it into and out of the shop, but there's definitely a good bit of play in the wheel. Is there any way to tighten this up? The Firm Feel boxes look great, and I've heard amazing things about them, but they don't really fit my budget. I see the huge core charge on their site. . . do they allow you to send a core in and re-coup that charge? That might make it a little better. And last, is it possible to replace the steering box with the engine in the car (if I had to do it later on down the line. . .)

-Jackson

[FLG]

Why not wait until you finish up the front end work before you go with a new box. Alot of times a sloppy wheel is caused by a worn front end.

[gasoline_24]

I spoke to them yesterday and they told me the core charge does not apply if you send in another unit.  It does not have to be the same year as the one you are getting.  They told me that they actually recommend the later style but will except a 2nd Gen.  I am not sure when the later style started, but he said it was a much better piece.  2 week turn around time.

[terrible one]

Why not wait until you finish up the front end work before you go with a new box. Alot of times a sloppy wheel is caused by a worn front end.

The front end is done. New bushings, ball joints, tie rods, blah blah blah. It's not so much slop in the suspension, etc. but just like a lot of play in the steering wheel. . . could probably turn it 3 inches each way before it "catches"

[terrible one]

I spoke to them yesterday and they told me the core charge does not apply if you send in another unit.  It does not have to be the same year as the one you are getting.  They told me that they actually recommend the later style but will except a 2nd Gen.  I am not sure when the later style started, but he said it was a much better piece.  2 week turn around time.

Right on, in that case I could send mine in then. . . I saw on their site that they recommended you get the later box anyways for a cheaper pitman (or was it idler?) arm. But even the price without core is a grip.

[FLG]

Ah sorry, i thought you didnt do the front end yet. In that case tell me how the new box comes out, probably going to replace the one in my 3rd gen when i start the restore. Do you have power or manual? If your going power, which "Stage" are you going to go with?

[gasoline_24]

I am going to do stage 2.  They said that stage 2 is the most popular.

[Tilar]

The front end is done. New bushings, ball joints, tie rods, blah blah blah. It's not so much slop in the suspension, etc. but just like a lot of play in the steering wheel. . . could probably turn it 3 inches each way before it "catches"

3 inches is a lot. You might take a little of that out with your adjustment down on the box, But it sounds like you have a coupler worn out where the steering shaft mates up to the steering box.

[terrible one]

The front end is done. New bushings, ball joints, tie rods, blah blah blah. It's not so much slop in the suspension, etc. but just like a lot of play in the steering wheel. . . could probably turn it 3 inches each way before it "catches"

3 inches is a lot. You might take a little of that out with your adjustment down on the box, But it sounds like you have a coupler worn out where the steering shaft mates up to the steering box.

Yeah, that much play is what worries me. How do you adjust it on the box? Of course, I'd like to see where that gets me first. I'll check out the steering shaft to input shaft on box coupling point too.

[Tilar]

Is it a power or a manual box?

[terrible one]

Power. 

[Tilar]

This is easier with the front wheels off the ground and somebody else to help you, but it can be done by yourself easy enough.

On top of the gearbox you will see a locknut with a screw in the middle. I think it takes an allen wrench for the center adjusting screw but it may be a regular flat tip screw driver.. Loosen the lock nut while holding the center adjusting screw in place. Sometimes the adjusting screw will be stuck in the lucknut, so you may have to hold the locknut with a wrench and try to move the screw.

With the wheels centered, move the wheel left and right just past center position while you gradually turn the screw in (clockwise). (This is where the helper comes in handy) Turn the adjusting screw in until a slight resistance is felt as the steering wheel passes the center position.  Then back the screw out until the resistance is barely detectable. Roughly 1/4 turn back.  Now tighten the lock nut while holding the adjusting screw in place.  Re-check the steering wheel for resistance as it passes the center position.  A slight resistance is fine.

Once you feel like you have that adjusted, Turn the wheel to the extreme left and right and be SURE that you do not feel any binding of any kind. If you feel it bind when you make a hard turn, back the screw off another 1/8 to 1/4 turn and again check for binding.

There are a few more adjustments for a power steering box but this is the jest of it. If, After doing this you find that you still have a lot of play, your gearbox probably needs rebuilt. I do have complete instructions for this also and I can and will post the total instructions for this if you want.