News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

what would it take to run 10"s?

Started by myrtle, February 02, 2008, 08:20:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

myrtle

hey everyone, what would it take to fun 10"a in a solid built 440 in my charger? I'm not having any luck with the search feature on this site to find proven packages, and wondering what else besides a built 727, stroker kit & heads is needed to sneak into the 10"s.

Thanks
THE REAL FAST AND THE REAL FURIOUS

daytonalo


BigBlockSam

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

firefighter3931

Quote from: myrtle on February 02, 2008, 08:20:08 PM
hey everyone, what would it take to fun 10"a in a solid built 440 in my charger? I'm not having any luck with the search feature on this site to find proven packages, and wondering what else besides a built 727, stroker kit & heads is needed to sneak into the 10"s.

Thanks


A strong motor, a good chassis and lots of traction. A 600hp motor will have enough power to run the number but everything else has to work well for it to happen. You need the complete package....motor alone won't cut it.  :Twocents:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Mike DC

   
It's one thing to build a car that can produce a 10-second timeslip once or twice under ideal circumstances.  But a car that can street-cruise reliably and produce something near the 10's on every blast?  That's something else. 



You're gonna start with a 500+ inch motor, some huge heads, a Dana 60 out back, a fully rollcaged chassis, and some BIG rear tires. 

     

myrtle

Looks like I need to go over my initial goals.

Here is a better question,..
With a built bottom end like a 512 stroker from 440 source along with their Stealth aluminum heads and a built tranny. what could one expect to run with a setup like this?
Or better yet, whats the fastest someone can expect to run with a good build, consistantly with a street driven car. I just want to know what would be a good goal to aim for some Im not let down.
THE REAL FAST AND THE REAL FURIOUS

tan top

Quote from: firefighter3931 on February 03, 2008, 11:27:12 AM
Quote from: myrtle on February 02, 2008, 08:20:08 PM
hey everyone, what would it take to fun 10"a in a solid built 440 in my charger? I'm not having any luck with the search feature on this site to find proven packages, and wondering what else besides a built 727, stroker kit & heads is needed to sneak into the 10"s.

Thanks


A strong motor, a good chassis and lots of traction. A 600hp motor will have enough power to run the number but everything else has to work well for it to happen. You need the complete package....motor alone won't cut it.  :Twocents:



Ron

try to lose  800 lbs in weight  would be a good idea also ...
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

myrtle

Screw it,.. Ill just go out and buy me a Demon/Duster or somthing.

Supercharge a 6cyl!!!  :popcrn:
THE REAL FAST AND THE REAL FURIOUS

firefighter3931

Quote from: myrtle on February 04, 2008, 12:07:34 PM
Looks like I need to go over my initial goals.

Here is a better question,..
With a built bottom end like a 512 stroker from 440 source along with their Stealth aluminum heads and a built tranny. what could one expect to run with a setup like this?
Or better yet, whats the fastest someone can expect to run with a good build, consistantly with a street driven car. I just want to know what would be a good goal to aim for some Im not let down.





With the right gearing, stall speed and chassis work it will be able to run consitent 10's.....at the track. Forget about trying to run that fast on the street....getting 600+ hp to hook on unprepped asphalt with street tires is mission impossible.  ;)

You will need a healthy cam and some porting on the heads to make that number but it is doable.  :Twocents:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Mike DC

I agree.  Street cruising anything (I don't care what it is) with four wheels and a roof around you is probably gonna make it about an 11-second ride or slower. 

The difficulty goes up exponentially as the car's time gets quicker.  The gap between 11s-to-10s is A LOT different than 15s-to-14s.  Different in how fast it feels to the driver and different in how much power & traction it takes to do it. 

Like I said before, there are plenty of "street cars" with fast dragstrip timeslips out there, but that's not the same thing as being able to reliably get those kinds of numbers every random time you stomp on it. 

You can reliably make 1000+ horsepower in a street car if you put the money into it.  But it's the starting line traction that always becomes the deal-breaker for a street car.  If you're not competing at a dragstrip and you just want a fun street cruiser, then the best thing I could tell you is this:  Just forget about the first 20 mph off the starting line, and build something to be a lot of fun after that. 


When you're dealing with rides this fast, the original type of car you started with becomes a lot less important than what you've done to it.  Old car, modern car, Ford, Chevy, Mopar, midsize, compact . . . it's all gonna be constructed of mostly similiar aftermarket parts whichever way you elect to do it. 

You basically want a lightweight car, with backhalved Pro Street tires in the rear, a ton of cubic inches, and forced induction of some sort.


And add a BIG cooling system to the list if you wanna attempt to street cruise it.  In the real world most of these "10 second cars" with normal-sized radiators barely make it 10 seconds in stop & go traffic without overheating.  Serious cars can be kept cool on the street with some work, but it's not something to cut corners on.

   

myrtle

damn you guys are so awsoome. Thank you all very much.
THE REAL FAST AND THE REAL FURIOUS