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porting heads

Started by Nacho-RT74, January 27, 2008, 11:20:12 AM

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Nacho-RT74

How to make it at home by myself ?

tools ?

templates ?

how much time takes ?

what I have to know about take care on some specifical point ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

aifilaw

There's posts galore about this, its a shame the old boards don't still exist or I'd pull up some of the walk-throughs and in depth discussions on it.
They still sell templates for the mopar heads for $20-$40. That will gain you probably around 20-30cfm.

Tools, I've done porting with everything from a air-tool die grinder, to an electric die grinder, to a dremel. When I do them now I handle all the big changes at first with a die grinder and a carbine metal cutting bit. I then follow it up with sanding tips on the die grinder. Then I go down to the dremel to really get in there and make the fine adjustments. Finally I get the sanding and polishing done with the dremel.

Porting by hand is really simple, knowing how to port is really difficult.
The most important things you rreally need to understand is airflow, statics, dynamics, aurodynamics, static pressure. To go into detail in this post will take a lot longer than what I intend to spend.

Get some good advice from someone who has done it, and before/after pictures of what to do, if you just go removing material, you will probably not gain anything at all, if not hurt your airflow a little, rather than make it better.

For a beginner, I would suggest following the mopar templates, trimming the boss, cleaning up the casting mistakes (there are always plenty on iron heads), and polishing the exhaust ports. Leaving the intake ports moderately rough will enhance your atomization if your using a carberator, and stop it from having fuel drop problems down the sidewalls especially with laminar flow. The exhaust ports are a different story, so as smooth and fast as you can make them the better.

There are really two extremes when porting that most professionals go by, velocity and cfm. That being, don't widen it up so much, but keep the speed of the air up as high as possible. The other being, open it up as much as possible, and let volume be your guide. One enhances torque potential, the other enhances horsepower. There are gives and takes all over the place. Where you want your flow based on the lift of the valve, the other engine requirements, such as the stroke of the cylinder will help your velocity, having a supercharger means the intake ports can be largely left alone, cam profile is the biggest factor to be reckoned with. There are a handful, and I do mean handful (probably less than 50 people worldwide) who really know what they want out of an engines performance, and can make the ports adequate to supply those exact needs perfectly. There are a variety of methods, such as wind-tipping the bosses, adding material to the base and removing from the boss sidewalls to actually increase airflow, et cetera.

But don't get me wrong, home-porting is probably the cheapest method of increasing horsepower and torque of your engine. I highly recommend getting yourself a scrap set of heads though, so you can find where the water jackets are, how far you can port, and most importantly get a feel for how to use your tools to remove metal, Iron is a lot harder to do than aluminum.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

aifilaw

One more thing, there are steps a machine shop can do to increase your heads performance that you can't, or shouldn't without the right machines. valve jobs, back-cutting the valves at certain angles, et cetera
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Nacho-RT74

I only have Dremel... maybe will work but will take more time ? :shruggy:

I have to pay attention on every word you spelled LOL.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

dukeboy_318

1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

charger50071

If you don't know exactly what you are doing don't waste your time grinding away at your heads. Spend the cash and get a set of aftermarket heads and bolt them on.You could ruin or make the old heads flow worse than stock.
1971 Charger 500 383
1971 Charger RT 440-6
1965 Coronet 500 426 wedge
1960 Phoenix D-500 convertable crossram

Nacho-RT74

I have 3 pairs of heads to try :D
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

aifilaw

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 30, 2008, 01:02:46 AM
I have 3 pairs of heads to try :D

Then you are in a position to learn.

I highly suggest going out and buying yourself the parts to build your own manometer flow-bench, should cost around $50. This will assist you in figuring out how to port
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

suntech

QuoteI only have Dremel... maybe will work but will take more time ?

The dremel i have seen, takes just 1/8 shaft, and with a tool like that it will take FOREVER!!
If you have one bigger, that takes 1/4 shaft, you might get it to work, but i would preffer an air driven, metal housing grinder tool. You need hard metal grinders, in a variety of shapes. 1/2 inch dia Ellipse shape is the one you will use most of the time, but you will need need ball end and straight round tip to, as a minimum, to do a deacent job.
A Cutting/ cooling compound is also good to have, to avoid the grinders to clog up.
And.................patiente!!!
Good luck
Rolf
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

aifilaw

if you have an air compressor, get a air tool die grinder
if you don't, get an electric one, that's what I have. It cost me about $40, 1/4" drive shaft

get yourself some carbide cutting bits, surprisingly "wood" carbide bits work fine on iron.
the die grinder will be for the heavy material moving, the dremel will be for the finesse and fixing and polishing, you will need both, but I've done it all with a dremel before, getting the right bits is key.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

suntech

Quoteget a air tool die grinder
Thats the english name yes :2thumbs:
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

Musicman

Quote from: aifilaw on January 30, 2008, 06:03:03 PM

Then you are in a position to learn.
I highly suggest going out and buying yourself the parts to build your own manometer flow-bench, should cost around $50. This will assist you in figuring out how to port.


First he'd have to find plans for a DYI  Manometer Flow Bench