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Help me out on something here

Started by 69bronzeT5, January 18, 2008, 02:08:28 AM

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69bronzeT5

I have no idea how to do this. I have a dent in the worse place on my fender and I cant figure out how to get it out....any ideas? Its right above where the bumper mounts and the dent is right on the edge.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Back N Black

If your sending the car for body and paint, leave it for the pro's.  :Twocents:

bill440rt

Quote from: Back N Black on January 18, 2008, 06:24:28 AM
If your sending the car for body and paint, leave it for the pro's.  :Twocents:

:iagree:

You need a stud gun for that one. They go anywhere from $250-$600. Or, pay a pro $250-$400.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

1969chargerrtse

That falls more under the "crease" category.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

4aThrill

Is it hollow in there? If it is you can shove a flat volleyball and just inflate it until pops the dents out, I did the same thing with my rear end dent. Just make sure you have the hole facing you when you hook the foot/bike/hand pump to it. Works like a charm.  :lolexplode:

BRS

When you dent a piece of metal your stretching it. (Yes, metal stretches). Just pulling it out will not fix the problem because your just pulling out the stretched metal. After you pull out the dent you have to shrink the metal back and you do that with a torch and cold rags. It is an art so if your going to attempt it yourself read up on it. Don't let someone just throw some bondo on it. That not the right way to repair it.

squeakfinder


I had similar damage to one of my fenders. I had to cut the brace out of the way (at the welds) to get to the dent. And then weld it back once I was done. This probably sounds extreme, but in order to do hammer and dolly work...

Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

Chatt69chgr

You can get the stud gun at Harbor Freight for around $100.  They have the studs for it also.  Could someone elaborate a little on the procedure with the torch and cold rags mentioned above.  What exactly gets heated, how much, and where and when do you apply the cold rags.  Thanks.

BRS

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on January 26, 2008, 09:00:19 PM
You can get the stud gun at Harbor Freight for around $100.  They have the studs for it also.  Could someone elaborate a little on the procedure with the torch and cold rags mentioned above.  What exactly gets heated, how much, and where and when do you apply the cold rags.  Thanks.

If you have a crushed area or a crease it will not work, but if you have a dent that is just pushed in you use a brazzing tip (not a cutting torch) and heat the metal around the dent from the outside in. It won't take much heat to get sheet metal hot. Then, while it's hot take a wet rag and apply it to the area again working from the outside it. If your not familiar with doing this practice on an old piece of sheet metal.