Overcharging Problem

[FLG]

Hey guys,

Having an overcharging problem with my 73. Voltage stays at about 15.3 volts. Changed the regulator (did nothing) but im thinking i might need to purchase a heavy duty one, as the car has the 100 AMP alternator. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Frank

[Plumcrazy]

What happens if you run it with the regulator unplugged?

[FLG]

I pulled the regulator off and it drops to about 12.3 volts. I tested for continuity between the 2 wires from the plug, and there is. I was suspecting the wiring until i removed one of the plugs from the alternator, when i unplugged it they there was no longer any continuity between the wires. Is it safe to say i need a new alternator?

[Nacho-RT74]

there is continuity becuse you MUST HAVE continuity throught rotor ( around 4-10 Ohms depending of alt year )... bad stuff would it be if you have continuity between any of wires and chassis at regulator plug disconected.

becarefull with 100 amps units...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[FLG]

ok, well then im just going to wait until i get a new harness from one of the members here. But until then, what other trouble shooting should i do?

[Nacho-RT74]

same test directly to alt, between brushes. Continuity between them and isolated from chassis.

anyway, by the way Plumcrazy told you to test, it could be simply damaged regulator. They are not guaranteed good from new. Also could it be damaged wires running to brushes.

However, I think with regulator unplugged and perfect alt, reading should it be below 12 Volts since batt is discharging at that moment

How does the ammeter on cluster reads ?

Note: please upgrade the wiring, check the link.. with 100 amps UNIT will burn bulkhead for sure at certain moment of car electrical loading, will be a slow process allmost unoticeable

[FLG]

Thanks nacho,

Im going to have to wait on the new wiring harness before i start upgrading the system. So i should be able to do it within the next week or so.

Can you please explain what you mean by,

"same test directly to alt, between brushes. Continuity between them and isolated from chassis."

Just a little confused.

[Plumcrazy]

I pulled the regulator off and it drops to about 12.3 volts. I tested for continuity between the 2 wires from the plug, and there is. I was suspecting the wiring until i removed one of the plugs from the alternator, when i unplugged it they there was no longer any continuity between the wires. Is it safe to say i need a new alternator?

The problem isn't the alternator.  Try a known good regulator, I think thats the problem.

[FLG]

ok, should i go with the heavy duty one from year one, the regular one, or one from rock auto?

[Nacho-RT74]

"same test directly to alt, between brushes. Continuity between them and isolated from chassis."

same test you did between regulator plug terminals but now between alt brushes. Put tester ends on prongs and should it be continuity ( 4-10 ohms ) but both completelly isolated from chassis

[Plumcrazy]

ok, should i go with the heavy duty one from year one, the regular one, or one from rock auto?

I would suggest the local Chrysler dealer.

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, should i go with the heavy duty one from year one, the regular one, or one from rock auto?

I would suggest the local Chrysler dealer.

[FLG]

ok will do...apparently though i have another problem. Now i cant get the car to start  cranks, has fuel, has spark...dont have time to play with it today or yesterday so i just pushed it, but gonna have to try keeping the choke open and trying to start it. And i didnt even touch anything this time  Had it started for a few seconds, but didnt keep it reved enough and she stalled, never got it started again 

Edit: OK back running, must have flooded it by accident...will check ohms tomorrow morning

[FLG]

Alright, 11ohms on alt between plugs.

Regulator Plugged in, from blue wire to chassis = continuity
Regulator plugged in, from green wire to chassis = no continuity
Regulator unplugged, from blue wire to chassis = continuity

Now, correct me if im wrong, but blue wire to chassis with regulator unplugged should be no continuity? If im correct, where the heck does this blue wire run to?

Ok did some more testing, there is a wire that goes to the "ACC" pin on the fuse box. But you can tell it was not the original wire, if i unplug it and unplug the regulator i get no continuity. So what wire is "supposed" to go there? And is this my problem?

[Nacho-RT74]

blue wire is POSITIVE from ignition switch, no continuity at all with chassis ANYWHERE

[FLG]

Nacho,

Im referring to the blue wire coming from the alternator, i assume this should also have no continuity with the chassis either. So why the heck am i not having any other problems?

Edit: Also, since your on if you dont mind can we jump into the chat room?...should make things easier then posting back and fourth

[FLG]

Well nacho, this should make you scratch your head 


Ok car is def a 73, but now that im thinking about it the fuse box looks more like a 72...so i did some testing today..possibly a 72 rallye dash?. I started removing fuses and checking for continuity with that blue wire off the alt to the chassis. Finally got to the left upper most fuse, and bam...no more continuity. OK so i start the car, and its still showing 15v. Now i say "what is this fuse for?", headlights still work, brake lights still work, interior and dash lights still work, reverse lights still work, dome light still works, trunk light still works, and finally turn signals are fine. So i look at the doors and theres wiring going to them...and now im saying to myself "The car has NO power windows...why the hell is there wiring going to the doors??" So can this fuse be for the non-existent power windows?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

both top fuses are isolated from bus bars ( acc and batt sources ) on back of fusebox. One is to cluster lightning and the other one is to all accesories inside the car feeded by the blue line ( seatbelt stuf, and brake light on cluster )

[FLG]

ok so so since i STILL had cluster lighting..its safe to assume the fuse i removed was the brake light and seatbelt stuff? Is that all it feeds Because if thats the case ill just leave the fuse out for now. Could the short be a problem with the seatbelt wiring under the floor? Also, i think ive exhausted quite alot of possibilities..im going to bench the alt tomorrow and make sure its OK just to rule it out.

[Nacho-RT74]

remember, reading we were having could it be simply the bulb continuity, not a short

[FLG]

Yep, true..but what about these wires going to my doors?

I'll be in the chat room for a little if ya want to brain storm again.