How to get brake drum off when brakes are rusted to them?

[MOPARHOUND!]

Scored a Dana 60 from a 1976 Dodge 1 ton motor home chassis for next to nothing.

Trying to get the brake drum off one end.  The guy I got it from couldn't get it loose.  The slack adjuster had some teeth missing, so he tried the bigger hammer method of trying to pound it loose through the inspection/access slot.  When that didn't work, he took the bolts loose from the brake cylinder, and pounded the brake cylinder down inside the drum, hoping this would free the brake shoes inside the drum.  The drum is still stuck. 

Any ideas?  The axle is out, and the wheels and tires are off.  The axle end is the full float design:

http://www.autohobbydigest.com/image.php?dana-f7.jpg

Think I'll spray it full of PB Blaster penetrating oil.

['CUDA360]

What about aplying heat from a torch?  Enough to heat up the drum but not so much as to burn up the brake shoes or catch the grease on fire..

Might work

By the way I might be getting one of these chassis with the 360/727/Dana still installed so let me know how it goes.

[Ghoste]

I once had to get one apart that was like that.  I took vise grips and yanked the shoe retaining nails down and turned them and then stuck a prybar under the lip of the drum.
My disclaimer is that all I wanted was the rearend pig and I didn't care about anything connected to the end other than getting it off.  Even though it wasn't that long ago, I didn't take stock of nor can I recall if there was a lot of damage to the drum or backing plate when I did this.

[moparguy01]

GET YOURSELF 2 BIG STOUDT SCREWDRIVERS OR SKINNY PRY BARS. (oops, caps) then wedge one in each side and pry out alittle. then push on one, and what the center of the drum with a 3 pound sledge a few times. sometimes it gets rust build up on there.

[bull]

If all else fails I would probably just cut the drum off as best you can without touching the hub and then chisel any part of the drum that's stuck to the hub if you have to. It's not like you're going to reuse that drum are you? Here's the ticket:



Better yet:

[Ghoste]

Hey Bull's right.  How much of this thing are you trying to save?  The center carrier is about all you will use isn't it?

[eSJayDee]

Might be a dumb suggestion or comment, but have you tried a drum puller?
It's basically a harmonic/gear type pulling device w/ claws on the 'legs' to grab the lip of the drum.
I'd also suggest wacking the snot outta the thing w/ a rubber mallet. (It might not help loosen the drum, but it's a good workout & relieves frustration.)

[BrianShaughnessy]

I doubt you're trying to save the axles or anything as it would have to be cut and get new axles to use in a car.... so I suggest using a ford tool  

8 lb will work but 12 lb is better 

[MOPARHOUND!]

Wish the drum would flex.

The guy I bought if from wants the backing plate and drum assembly, if possible.

Thought of cutting the 4 studs holding on the backing plate with a torch, so the whole thing would come off.

Maybe then I'd have access through the 3" to 4" hole in the middle of the backing plate the axle tube goes through to take apart the brake assembly.

Have the outer bearing, and the inner and outer nuts off.   Axle is there only to keep dust, etc. out, and is free.

Pic of what I am up against.

[Ghoste]

That might be your best bet.  You're going to have to use shorter axle tubes anyway so cutting at the axle end isn't going to hurt you.  Are the axle tube flanges even the same for a smaller brake assembly?

[Charger_Fan]

Judging from your pic, as long as everything holding the shoes to the backing plate (adjuster, wheel cylinder, both pins & e-brake cable) are free from the backing plate, the rusted shoes should come off with the drum.
If you've got the 2 nuts & outer bearing out of the hub...to me, the drum (brakes & all) should slide off the axle tube. Other than maybe a burned up inner bearing, I don't see why that whole mess doesn't fall off in your hand.

[jgbailey57]

hit it with a decent sized hammer on the line i showed all the way around and it should break the shoes loose.  maybe put a bar on the lug studs and try to turn the drum at the same time.  if you don't get it email me at baileyj@bv.com and i'll swing by and help you out tomorrow night (friday 11/11/05).

[Charger4404spd]

Have you tried a slide-hammer?

[MOPARHOUND!]

hit it with a decent sized hammer on the line i showed all the way around and it should break the shoes loose.   maybe put a bar on the lug studs and try to turn the drum at the same time.   if you don't get it email me at baileyj@bv.com and i'll swing by and help you out tomorrow night (friday 11/11/05).

Thanks for the offer jg.   Not sure what I will be doing later this evening yet.   Will try beating on the drum while applying pressure.   Will have to be careful as the guy would like the drum back.

Slide hammer may not work, as the springs and such that make up the brake assembly cushion the outward blows.  

Hopefully there isn't much of a lip wore it to the drum from the brake shoes, binding the drum from slipping off.

Also have a 74 Dodge pickup with an 8-3/4 rear with this same problem.  It sunk in the mud, and sat for years.

Keep the ideas coming.   Thanks to all so far.

[jgbailey57]

They're pretty solid drums so they'll take a pretty good blow, just don't go crazy with it.  As long as you don't hit it on the lip it shouldn't break.  I have a billiards tournament for work at sidepockets at 87th & pflumm starting at 6:00, how far are you from there?

[MOPARHOUND!]

jg,

My sbc dsl connection was down until noon on Saturday the 12th, so I couldn't get back to you.

However, I did try beating on it with no progress until yesterday.

After cutting the adjuster 90% into(?) with a torch through the access hole, three of us with one beating, one prying in a circular motion, and the other pulling straight on the drum, it gradually came off.   You could tell that end had been submerged in water for some time.   Fortunately, none of the water made it insided the housing itself.

Kudos for the idea.

-'HOUND