4 speed Hurst shifter ID

[Mick70RR]

This is the shifter fitted to my 70 Road Runner, the number on the reverse lever is 6370. I'm prety sure it's not the correct shifter for a pistol grip and it gets close to the dash when shifting into third. The pistol grip is bolted on with two bolts. Anyone know what it's off and which one I should have?

[John_Kunkel]

The '70 B body shifter is a one-year-only and has the number 7174 on the reverse lever.

[Mick70RR]

Cheers John, any idea what this one is off?

[John_Kunkel]

Here's a list of the factory Mopar Hurst shifters:

2336= '64-'65 A & B Body

6353= '68-'69 B Body and '68-up A body

7174= '70 only B Body

7180= '70-'74 E Body and '71-up B Body

I suspect it's an aftermarket unit, does it have stop bolts?

[Runner]

john, how much does it shorten the the shift up on a pistol grip car?    brewers lists these on thier web sight for 299 dollars. i might get one at some point if its a noticable differance

  http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?id=229

[tecmopar]

Its a very noticable difference, I've sold or swapped out for customers many 7174 mechanisms over the years, mainly because people just didn't know that these were very specific shifters. A few guys had punched their dash boards so they knew something was wrong. For really shorter shifts in just about any other Mopar, this is the unit to use, good luck.

[Mick70RR]

John, it's definately a Hurst shifter, it's stamped on the side, maybe not off a Mopar.
It does have the stopbolts.
Runner, I saw those shifers on the Brewers website, think I will email them for more details.

[Mick70RR]

I got a quick reply from Dan and these are genuine Hurst shifters except for the levers which they make themselves. The tooling for the 7174 was scrapped about 10 years ago.

[Runner]

it would be cool if they would sell just the levers so a guy could replace the ones in the shifter he already owns.

[Mick70RR]

Hoe easy or difficult is it to take the shifter apart and re-assemble it?

[tecmopar]

Their actually pretty easy to do, just make sure you don't mix up the plates when you reassemble it. Look carefully for the obvious parts that create the play in them, the pivot bolt is usually worn in half causing the most slop, a badly worn barrel tube is next and of course a broken or bent roll pin causes the same problem. I used to get my rebuild kits from Hurst for 9.25 then 12.75  but once Mr. Gasket took over you can't get these kits any more, you have to send it to them and spend about 100.00 to have it rebuilt, what a shame but thats big business for you. Good luck.

[Mick70RR]

There does seem to be too much play in the shifter, there's a few inches of slack in the pistol grip before the levers move. I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and see what's worn.

[Mick70RR]

Well it turns out the pistol grip was loose in the shifter, the threads in the plate that the two bolts screw into were allmost stripped. I drilled them out and used two nuts and it feels nice and tight now. I also made two new levers for the 1-2 and 3-4 shifter shafts with the holes closer together to reduced the throw. I bought a can of case hardening compound and hardened them so they don't wear out too quickly. The smell of that stuff took me back 40 years to when I was at school.