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Sub-Frame Connectors Better than other?

Started by Blown70, January 11, 2008, 12:42:05 PM

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Blown70

I should have also stated this is for my 69, the 70 charger is welll....... all tubes with a 4 link anyway..... ;D

HeavyFuel

US Cartool.  Turning out pretty good so far.

Steve P.

Looks great....  I wish they had come from the factory this way...   How much weight do you figure you just added to the car? Maybe 12 - 18 pounds?? Just think how many cracked "B" pillars and quarter skins would have been saved...
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Yeahmate

US cartool. Not the easiest to install, but take the time in fabbing them up right and they look the part. Note; had to make up the park brake cable access trough the frame

suntech

Nice............Liked the way you made the cable guide :2thumbs:
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

HeavyFuel

Yeah, I did that too.

charger_mike75

I got a question, on the bolt in SC, how did you guys drill the rear holes?   I got a set of Competition Engineering SC and couldn't get the drill straight enough to drill the rear holes.   :scratchchin:

Rack

I think you can put a piece of tape on the part you're drilling to help keep the drill straight.

:Twocents:

The70RT

Quote from: Rack on February 04, 2008, 04:07:39 AM
I think you can put a piece of tape on the part you're drilling to help keep the drill straight.

:Twocents:

That or start out with a 1/8" bit and drill a pilot hole.
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charger_mike75

I tried that, my problem was my drill was hitting the rocker preventing me from getting a hole started.

The70RT

Quote from: charger_mike75 on February 04, 2008, 08:10:56 AM
I tried that, my problem was my drill was hitting the rocker preventing me from getting a hole started.

I never encountered that. Maybe get an 45 degree angle adapter for your drill.
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bill440rt

Quote from: charger_mike75 on February 04, 2008, 01:08:47 AM
I got a question, on the bolt in SC, how did you guys drill the rear holes?   I got a set of Competition Engineering SC and couldn't get the drill straight enough to drill the rear holes.   :scratchchin:


I can't speak for the C.E. ones, but for the MP connectors I held them in place with a jack underneath, marked all the holes & with a center punch, then removed the connectors. I drilled each hole separately from each side. The bolts lined up fine.

I ground the mating surfaces to bare metal, & bolted them in place combined with 3M panel bond adhesive (STRONG stuff!). My floorpans were freshly painted so I couldn't weld them in without doing damage. I figured, bolting them along with the panel bond adhesive has gotta be stronger than bolting them in alone, even if it isn't as strong as welding.

:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Back N Black

Turning a car from side to side on a rotisserie, is it not a issue with stress the body and frame on a uni-body car?

When welding or bolting in the sub-frame connectors should the car be level and on four axle stands?

The70RT

Quote from: Back N Black on February 05, 2008, 12:54:01 PM
Turning a car from side to side on a rotisserie, is it not a issue with stress the body and frame on a uni-body car?

When welding or bolting in the sub-frame connectors should the car be level and on four axle stands?

That question arose on here on various threads and most think it doesn't matter. Some are even putting rear quarters floors front fenders and doors on while on a rotissorie. If you have a solid foundation to start with it shouldn't matter. :Twocents:
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HeavyFuel

Quote from: The70RT on February 05, 2008, 01:50:24 PM
Quote from: Back N Black on February 05, 2008, 12:54:01 PM
Turning a car from side to side on a rotisserie, is it not a issue with stress the body and frame on a uni-body car?

When welding or bolting in the sub-frame connectors should the car be level and on four axle stands?

That question arose on here on various threads and most think it doesn't matter. Some are even putting rear quarters floors front fenders and doors on while on a rotissorie. If you have a solid foundation to start with it shouldn't matter. :Twocents:

US cartools highly recommends that the car be level when welding in the SF connectors.  My car was made as level as possible, tacked, then turned on it's side for the final bead.  My car has very little rust, but I didn't want to take any chances.

troy.70R/T

i have been looking for torque boxes but can only find that auto rust techinicians makes them. Does anyone else make them? I have lookied at XV motorsports and U.S. Car Tool but do not see them on their web site. I would like to XV or U.S. Car Tool frame connectors but was hoping to but the torque boxes from the same place as well. I see the U.S Car Tool advertises their frame connectors as .125 wall Does anyone know how thic XV's frame connectors are?

colrmustang

1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas

AutoRust

Quote from: colrmustang on February 28, 2009, 10:30:43 PM
I make rear torque boxes, working on the front ones currently. :2thumbs:

Dude, about those rear torque boxes your "making"?   


Did you buy them directly from me and are trying to pass them off as something you "made"?      :flame:

Get real, those are the torque boxes from Auto Rust. Dont even try to imply differently.  :slap:

I have been active on this board for several years, most everyone on here knows me and my products, and everyone knows I make those rear torque boxes, they are not exact duplicates of the factory ones, they are actually a lot better.

Be a big man now, post up here and tell everyone you made a mistake and the rear torque boxes you have are from Auto Rust Technicians, and you would be happy to help them get  a set at the group discount available to all charger.com members

Otherwise , lets just say we don't play nicely with people that steal our stuff.


Thanks

Dave
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

mauve66

from his posting on www.66-67charger.com my understanding is he got a set from them and then made copies for alot less thean they were selling them, they aren't patented so free market trade as i understand it
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

colrmustang

I've grown really tired of this; IF you want to have someone apologize, then you talk to them one on one, WHICH IS NOT HARD TO DO SEEING AS HOW MY INFORMATION IS ON HERE. If you want me to stop, then I will since it cuts in your profits. A simple email saying stop is all that is needed. I get tired of everyone who is in this hobby making a killing off of anyone who wants to improve these cars.
1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas

AutoRust

Quote from: mauve66 on March 13, 2009, 11:27:01 AM
from his posting on www.66-67charger.com my understanding is he got a set from them and then made copies for alot less thean they were selling them, they aren't patented so free market trade as i understand it

Umm, no, there not " A LOT" cheaper then I sell them for.
Direct from my web site

Torque boxes were also known as "hemi boxes" or "double floor plates". Our tests have shown that when combined with our weld-in subframe connectors, the two together provide a 20% decrease in chassis flex, which is also a 20% increase in rigidity. These are not factory-stamped pieces for show car restorations, they are for performance enhancement.
ART-2425-1 — $249.95/set

Available individually: ART-24-1 is a rear torque box and ART-25-1 is a front torque box. $69.95 individually.


He claims he will sell them for $65 each, where is the big savings?
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

colrmustang

Would you rather me drop all shipping, have them contact a sheet metal shop, and sell them for the price I told you in the message I sent you?
1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas

AutoRust

Quote from: colrmustang on March 13, 2009, 11:44:13 AM
I've grown really tired of this; IF you want to have someone apologize, then you talk to them one on one, WHICH IS NOT HARD TO DO SEEING AS HOW MY INFORMATION IS ON HERE. If you want me to stop, then I will since it cuts in your profits. A simple email saying stop is all that is needed. I get tired of everyone who is in this hobby making a killing off of anyone who wants to improve these cars.

You are tired of this ??  Perhaps you might explain yourself a little better? Is this something that happens to you often? Is there a pattern here ?

Let me explain a few things here for you and everyone else to understand.
I could care less if you want to make yourself a set of torque boxes, I could care less if you want to make a few sets, and get your buddies to buy them from you.
Go for it. Go out there, and do the work. Get a car with some on it, develop yourself a pattern or 3, do the test fitting, make them fit right. Good deal, I am happy for you and your buddys.
BUT, if you want to get a set of mine, post pictures up and tell everybody there yours and your gonna undercut my pricing, then you just set the rules. I will play by your rules. This is business. I defend my products vigorously.
I will call you out, in a public forum ( seeing its your choice to go there first) and tell you to admit your stealing my ideas, and trying to hoodwink a few people into buying them from you at a "better" deal.   See my previous post above regarding your "better deal"

You might have noticed my Torque boxes are different then stock appearing ones, and I tell people flat out they are NOT original pieces. When people call asking about them, we typically ask if there doing a "Real Hemi Car". If so, you should call Harms for his factory correct ones. Mine are better the Factory ones, we use a heavier gauge steel, a better design for function, and we sell them as a performance enhancement item.

If you want to do the same thing we do, go ahead. HOWEVER, make sure you go ahead and run your business from a properly zoned location. Make sure you get all your business permits. Make sure you pay all your TAXES on the income, Make sure you follow proper business procedures. Make sure your telephone numbers are listed on all your advertisements so someone can contact you. Make sure you stand behind your products and cheerfully refund money if someone orders then and decides they dont want them. Did I mention paying taxes on your income?? All the taxes, to the state, the IRS, the local governments, and anyone else thats out there looking for it. Most state governments are hurting right now, I am sure they would be glad for you to pay taxes on the income you earned.

We are a good company here at Auto Rust Technicians. We have been in businees for 32 years. We developed products to help people save rusty Mopars. We do it for business, but we also do it for fun. We are car guys. We have been Mopar guys since the days they started building faster cars then anyone else. We went through the good times, and we went through the bad times when you could barely give away a Challenger with a glove box full of money. We are enthusiasts.
We save a lot of Mopars, here in our shop, and by selling kits that help others save old Mopars. We support and advertise in all the Mopar magazines, we pay a ton of taxes every year. We employ hard working guys in our shop that also are enthusiasts and tax payers who work for an American company producing American made products. We support and advertise at Major Mopar events around the country, and travel to them when our advertising budgets allow us to.
We support the sport.

How this might be considered " making a killing off anyone who wants to improve there cars????

Dave

:cheers:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

colrmustang

So you know, I am copying everything over here so people know what i am saying. I would rather have everyone know what my intentions were, and how they have been greatly exaggerated.

From the 66-67dodgecharger.com forum:

Quote from: autorust on March 13, 2009, 03:11:45 PM
Shall we continue on this forum?

Sure, if you insist. I really couldn't care less where you talk to me since you seem to be so dead set on not leaving me alone since I have already removed everything on the other forum+. If you have read said thread, you by now surely know what my intention was. IF you can't leave well enough alone when someone does what you ask, then why do you insist on harassing them?

NO WHERE have I explicitly said "these are mine, I came up with the design" which is your current argument. I am not going to pass off something that was originally a design of the Chrysler Corporation as mine. According to patent law, items have to be marked with the number of said patent. If you don't believe me, here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent

Now, I am going to bluntly tell you since you haven't read in the thread at all; I am not making any money on these, at all, period. The costs of the boxes+labor for me is $59.77, and I then have to pay tax on that. Wonder where I come up with $65 now? Also, I lose money having to run around getting these things, shipping them (I use flat rate, normal person shipping, not business discount) and then there is the whole thing of you accusing me of stealing your design.

I didn't sit here and think, no matter what you assume, that I could make a living at this. It started just with the reinforcements, and someone asked me if I could make copies of the boxes (I suggest reading each and every post, not skipping around in there). I do this because I figure people could use some help in this kind of economy, but apparently people don't.

What else do you want? A sign saying your design is good? What about the fact that I am using your design ON an original Hemi car BECAUSE of it? Scott doesn't even carry the boxes, he will refer you to another company that charges $250 for them. All in all, your harassing me now on two forums for what purpose?

Original Thread:

http://66-67charger.com/forum/index.php?topic=8102.0
1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas

colrmustang

One other thing I have noticed RE-reading the original thread; why is it that several comments have been changed? Do you think that the last edit time is not displayed? Do you want me to post every message that has been sent back and forth, because I keep my messages. Or, I can screenshot and post up, which do you perfer?









Edit: Added pics since someone mentioned they can't see
1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas