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oil priming

Started by chargerman68, January 08, 2008, 07:36:02 PM

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chargerman68

i got my 440 rebuilt and unsure if they primed the oil system proior to me wrenching on it.there is oil on the springs and valves but the rockers are bone dry.my oil pressure gauge is not working due to faulty oil pressure sending oil..how do i know if oil is getting up to the heads without the gauge.waiting on napa to get one in?

also if i need to prime it could i use a drill and a slot off of a disty.i know its counter just wondering dont want to buy a tool if i only need it once..thanks
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

firefighter3931

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 08, 2008, 07:36:02 PM
i got my 440 rebuilt and unsure if they primed the oil system proior to me wrenching on it.there is oil on the springs and valves but the rockers are bone dry.my oil pressure gauge is not working due to faulty oil pressure sending oil..how do i know if oil is getting up to the heads without the gauge.waiting on napa to get one in?

also if i need to prime it could i use a drill and a slot off of a disty.i know its counter just wondering dont want to buy a tool if i only need it once..thanks


There is a special oil priming rod available from MP....it goes down into the oil pump and you have to remove the drive to fit the shaft in there. The drill must be turned counterclockwise to circulate the oil.

Oiling to the rocker arms comes from the #4 cam lobe and if you're not getting any oil it could be one of two things :

(1) Make sure the rocker shaft oil holes are facing down and the holes are aimed towards the exhasut manifold side of the head. Looking at the front of the engine with it installed in the car the holes should point down and out (towards the fenders). If the holes are down and facing in then you need to fix it.

(2) Rotate the engine over slowly by hand (breaker bar on the crank bolt) while priming with the drill and priming rod. Once the cam feed hole is lined up you will get oil coming out of the rocker arm shafts. Make sure to rotate it enough so that oil gets to both sets of rockers.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

chargerman68

what could i use to prime the pump jerry rig sytle dont want to wait for shipping a tool....
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

firefighter3931

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 08, 2008, 10:16:42 PM
what could i use to prime the pump jerry rig sytle dont want to wait for shipping a tool....


Spend the $10 and get the right part. You can go down to your local dealer and order one in.  :Twocents:

P4286800 is the part number.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

chargerman68

ok thanks

any dodge dealer should have it
do u have any pics of the 4 cam lobe holes...
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

firefighter3931

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 08, 2008, 10:25:31 PM
ok thanks

any dodge dealer should have it
do u have any pics of the 4 cam lobe holes...


If the dealer doesn't have it they can order it in for you....or you can get the priming rod from Summit racing.

The #4 cam bearing is pressed into the block. There is a hole in that bearing that lines up wth an oil feed hole in the block and the bearing msut be properly aligned for oil to get to the top end of the engine. Lets assume for now that the oil holes are properly lined up and just follow the procedure i outlined above and see what happens.  :Twocents:

Make sure the rocker shafts are intalled correctly, use the priming tool and slowly rotate the engine over while priming.  :yesnod:




Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

chargerman68

1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

chargerman68

friend tried to prime it today cranked over engine by hand while oil prime tool turning counterclock,still no oil up into the heads....how long would it take to crank over to get oil to spash up onto the rockers


and after doing all of that do i need to tell them to reset back to #1 prison at tdc and and redone firing order or not?
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

dukeboy_318

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 09, 2008, 10:25:46 PM
friend tried to prime it today cranked over engine by hand while oil prime tool turning counterclock,still no oil up into the heads....how long would it take to crank over to get oil to spash up onto the rockers


and after doing all of that do i need to tell them to reset back to #1 prison at tdc and and redone firing order or not?

tell who, the machine shop???, TDC is needed to set timing, I dont think itd affect the priming, but i could be wrong so to reset to TDC center, all you do is stick a finger down the spark plug hole on #1 and have a buddy turn the engine with a breaker till you feel the piston,or you can get the tool.  then you can double check your timing and firing order.  how long did you try priming it, it might take a few minutes to get the the oil up there, i say try again, if not it could be misaligned cam bearings. :Twocents: :2thumbs:
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

Steve P.

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 09, 2008, 10:25:46 PM
friend tried to prime it today cranked over engine by hand while oil prime tool turning counterclock,still no oil up into the heads....how long would it take to crank over to get oil to spash up onto the rockers


While the tool was in place and turning COUNTER clockwise, did the drill go from cruising speed to bogged down? If so,this would tell you that the pump is primed and that oil is being pumped. If it just seamed to free wheel you will more than likely have to pull the pump and prime it.

I don't recall anything about you having your motor rebuilt before this. What was done??
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

chargerman68

got it was supposed to be rebuilt no the drill never bogged down...whats next?????
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

1BAD68

I just primed my small block last week and had trouble.
I found out that with the timing mark on the damper set at 0 and #1 piston at TDC it oiled fine on one side.
The other side wouldn't so I kept turning the crank by hand about 10-15 degrees at a time and primed, it finally found its spot and then oil came pouring off the rockers.
Should be the same for a big block.


Ghoste

Quote from: chargerman68 on January 10, 2008, 03:51:54 PM
got it was supposed to be rebuilt no the drill never bogged down...whats next?????

Did you pack the pump with white grease first?

dukeboy_318

Quote from: 1BAD68 on January 10, 2008, 04:11:29 PM
I just primed my small block last week and had trouble.
I found out that with the timing mark on the damper set at 0 and #1 piston at TDC it oiled fine on one side.
The other side wouldn't so I kept turning the crank by hand about 10-15 degrees at a time and primed, it finally found its spot and then oil came pouring off the rockers.
Should be the same for a big block.



so timing does have an effect on priming!, cool, i didnt think it did, im glad i learned something again  ;D :cheers:
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

supserdave

Not so much an effect on priming, you will still prime the pump and the bearings, all you do by turning the engine over is to line up the holes that feed oil to the top end.

But yes, if you want to prime the top end you have to do that.

BRS

Summit has the right priming shaft for Mopar. Timing has nothing to do with it since you have to pull your distributor and cam gear before you can insert the priming shaft. (It is a B or RB engine?) Make sure the drill is turning counter clockwise. I should only take a few seconds before you start feeling some resistance. It's a good idea to put a mechanical oil pressure gauge while you do this. (Pick one up at your local vendor for under $20.00). If you have already set your initial start-up timing be sure to mark you distributor before you pull it. Good luck!

chargerman68

no didnt pack anything got the motor at the shop.we had to luck turning over by hand for about a half hour.the drill was not bogged down and it was going the right way....
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

Steve P.

Any time you change an oil pump you will have to pack grease into the pump to create a seal and suction. Oil pumps are a positive displacement pump. This means "IT" must be primed, (packed with grease). Start there.
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Charger-Bodie

Did I miss something? I thought yo already had youre car up and running?
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

BRS

Turning the engine by hand won't do it. If you don't feel any resistance on the drill and your sure your priming shaft is down in the pump (and your pump is turning) then you either have a problem with the pump or the pick up. either way your going to have to turn some wrenches.

chargerman68

Quote from: 1hot68 on January 10, 2008, 09:21:05 PM
Did I miss something? I thought yo already had youre car up and running?

yep final got the thing running and put the kickdown linkage in started it up loud clank on the right side i didnt know about oil priming and since i got screwed over at the shop i was at i fiqured it didnt get done and now have the problems listed above with priming it...
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

chargerman68

at a total loss...i tired of fixing one thing to battle three more....does it ever stop :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

Ghoste

I'm not sure it ever stops but it does get better.  Two choices right now depending on your temperment, either damn the torpedo's and push on through to completion, or step back take a deep breath and get back to it when it won't make you scream.

BRS

Quote from: Ghoste on January 10, 2008, 09:38:43 PM
I'm not sure it ever stops but it does get better. Two choices right now depending on your temperment, either damn the torpedo's and push on through to completion, or step back take a deep breath and get back to it when it won't make you scream.

The later is good advise! Things are always clearer, and easier, after you've calmed down. Sorry for your trouble!

Steve P.

I agree with these guys. Time to take a step back. Crack open the book on building your motor. Learn what it takes and take it step by step from there..

The loud clank does not sound good.  I think we should hear this story from the beginning. BUT,,, first tell me, is this the same motor that you were having trouble getting started a few months ago or have you changed the motor or had it rebuilt?  This is somewhat confusing..
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida