Steering coupler assembly

[astat1]

Is there a trick to replacing the cap on the coupler. It seems impossible to try to bend the flaps on the coupler without the other side coming off. I am waiting to get the Mopar clamp that supposed to avoids this but I would rather have it together without the extra hardware on it.

[Chatt69chgr]

Where are you planning on getting the Mopar clamp.  I wasn't aware that anyone had these for sale.

[Ghoste]

It's like a large spring clip that covers the regular clamp.  It was part of a tsb type of recall (not a recall per se but a factory authorized field repair?).  There is no trick to getting the stock one that I can remember beyond patience and luck.  As for the coupler repair kit, there is a guy who sells them and I used to have his card someplace.  He often has a booth at different Mopar events but I'll see if I can dig up a card for you.

[astat1]

I bought mine on eBay, $30 including shipping. I figure thats cheap to avoid heading into a tree or worse. There are still several available. Search under Mopar steering coupler.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Where are you planning on getting the Mopar clamp.  I wasn't aware that anyone had these for sale.

See here....

http://www.mopar4sale.com/

[Ghoste]

BTW, is it just coming apart on you or did you have it apart to replace the shoes inside of it?

[Chatt69chgr]

I have the TSB but had no idea that anyone had the spring.  I had checked the dealer and they said the part was long gone from inventory.  Thanks for the lead on where to get one Just69chgr.  Now I want to note that the rebuild kit for the pot coupler is still available from the dealer.  And it costs a lot less than Rick Ehrenberg sells one for on his EBAY site.  So with the rebuild kit and the spring, you would be all set--------unless you decide to get rid of the whole thing and go with the U-Joint style coupler from Flaming River.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Rebuild kit.....about $15 but comes with "incorrect" orange colored boot.   A few repro companies sell just the black boot itself for about $15 as well 

[astat1]

I rebuilt the coupler as the boot was in pieces. I have the Mopar issued clamp now but am still going to try and put it together using 2 c-clamps to keep it together to be able to bend the tabs in. I am putting this in the poor design file.

[71 Bee Man]

I bought mine on eBay, $30 including shipping. I figure thats cheap to avoid heading into a tree or worse. There are still several available. Search under Mopar steering coupler.

I have the same problem as you - I bought the rebuild kit but just can't get the metal "cover" to stay on. To be honest i don't think there should be any problem with it all "jumping out". Surely that would require movement in the whole steering column pulling it upwards.

I think I'll look for the clip regardless just to neaten it all up.

peter

[Ghoste]

You know, I've been following this thread and it really bugs me because I rebuilt mine a few years ago and I can't recall having the problems everyone else seems to with holding the thing together.  I do vaguely remember that the thing gave me a little fight but I can't remember for the life of me what the hell I did to make it all go together.  I redid my wiper pivots at the same time and I remember having a waaay bigger issue getting all that mess back together.
I forget if it was part of the kit or not, but I also added a grease zerk to the side of my steering coupler to help keep the shoes lubed up in there.
I really wish I could recall how I got the thing to hold together.  I'm not exactly Mr. Patience so I must have schemed up some sort of little tool to help me. 

[Nacho-RT74]

welll is true that is hard to crimp the taps since once you crimp one side, the other comes out easily.

also is true I made in mounted on car... I dodn't want to fight with coupler and a BIG HAMMER trying to remove from steering box stud

[grdprx]

I need to get the repair kit, and fix my coupler.  there is a lot of free play at the intermediate shaft there.  I can't seem to find procedures here or in the factory manual.  I have a 68, does the steering wheel/shaft need to be pulled, or does it come apart in the middle near the coupler?  Anyone know what page I'd look for in the manual?  I've seen the blow up diagram of the coupler, but i can't find that picture in the manual...  thanks

[Ghoste]

Wheel and shaft shouldn't need to come out.  You will have to pry the ears up on the coupler cap and then you will be able to take it all apart.

[Chatt69chgr]

I can't remember which magazine it was but in the last year one of the Mopar/Muscle Car magazines had a article on how to rebuild the coupler.  It said that a common mistake was installing the shoes backwards.  Also said that there is supposed to be play, ie, the shoes are supposed to be able to move forward and backward in the coupler as the steering box is flexed by the frame.  It said that if the whole steering column was solid, as in using the flaming river u-joint) that before long the plastic pieces that "lock" the inner and outer steering shaft would break.  Frankly, I don't see how these plastic pieces breaking would matter after the steering column was in the car.  Of course, if they didn't break, were one to use the U-joint, the bearing in the upper end of the steering column under the steering wheel would be pushed back toward the driver.  I can't recall if this bearing is retained with a clip or not but if it was then the steering column housing would be messed up.

Does anyone remember which Magazine and which issue this article was in?

[Ghoste]

I do recall the story and I'm pretty sure it was Mopar Action but a lot of the times when I'm pretty sure about something I tend to be pretty wrong.

[grdprx]

That would be quite helpful if someone had that available and could scan it..  

Ghoste, if I pry the cap off and it all comes apart, will I be able to then get the new orange seal and new cap on?

Thanks guys!

[twinscrew698]

I used the silicone boot on mine!!
Try these guys..
http://www.steerandgear.peachhost.com/ct_CGcouplerkitsforlowersteeringcolumn.htm

[grdprx]

So, I'm a little nervous about starting this.  Are there any instructions someone could provide?  I assume the shaft the coupler is on has to come apart in order to get the new cover on...  How?

Ghoste, you mentioned a grease zerk, does this mean that while I'm assembling everything; that I need to dab some grease in there or pack it with grease?

Appreciate any info.  I searched, but couldn't find any procedures.

[Chatt69chgr]

The steering shaft projects into the coupler housing with about 1/4 inch play at the bottom.  The housing comes off the splined sector shaft by driving out a roll pin.  The housing doesn't have to be taken off but the steering shaft does have to be backed out of the housing to clean the old grease out and provide access to regrease the new assembly and install the parts including the rubber gasket and cover.  So the column would need to be loosened to give it some play.  If the shaft is forceably moved back then the plastic shear pins would be sheared.  I saw one article where they used two clamps to push the cover down before bending over the ears.  There is a little article on the coupler in Moparts Tech:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/steering/2.html

Keeping the cover on was apparently a problem way back when and Chrysler issued a TSB identifying a spring to hold it on.  I bought one a couple or three years ago from:
Mike Randall, PO Box 76, Manchester, MI 48158.  There was a short one at 2-1/2 inches and a long one at 3-1/16 inches.  Was called a Steering Shaft Coupling Clamp and was $16.  You measured from the surface of the cover clamp to the center line of the two holes in the side of the coupler housing to see which you needed.  No idea if he still sells these.

I have seen a picture of a zerk fitting installed in the coupler body to allow it to be greased.  Was in the side in middle of the housing.

[Ghoste]

Yes, you should pack some grease in there.  I drilled a small hole in mine while it was all apart and the tapped it for the grease zerk.

[General_01]

I couldn't get the tabs bent correctly to hold it on either. I ended up using a clamp made for CB antennas on the shaft and butted it up to the lid to hold it on. Works fine for me, but I am not going for the factory correct look.

[grdprx]

All right!  I finally figured it out!  

Got the housing off, there were no shoes in it!  Explains the EXSISIVE play...  

[john108]

I am about ready to tackle this rebuild.
I have the kit.
I noticed that there are rebuild kits that have instructions.
Mine doesn't.  I have seen the exploded pictures and basics.
Can anyone please post detailed instructions???
Thank you.

[john108]

This is the best I could find.