Cluster Restoration.

[rikubot]

Hi I have a question for you: Does the tic toc tac sit farther back in the cluster than the clock and speedometer? I just got mine in the mail and put it in my cluster and it sits noticeably farther back. I paid $370 for an "authentic mopar restoration part" off eBay.

Here are a couple pics.

[Dino]

Yes it does, that's normal.  The clock part itself sits flush with the speedometer but the tach sits deeper.  I'm actually contemplating keeping my stock clock because of it. 

[rikubot]

Hmm my clock face sits about 1/4 inch behind the speedo face. I'd prefer if they had built em flush, but it won't stop e from running it. Are all these things built to stock dimensions? It would kill me to know my tach sits even FARTHER back than "normal"

[Dino]

Maybe I'm wrong.  I assumed the clock and speedometer were flush.  I have an original toc-toc-tach here and my cluster is out so I'll drop it in there and compare.

[rikubot]

Thank you sir I appreciate it!

[birdsandbees]

They're not flush. I can get a shot of my original Rallye dash 'Bee if you like.

[rikubot]

They're not flush. I can get a shot of my original Rallye dash 'Bee if you like.

Yes please if you don't mind. I have such a hard time comparing my car to anything because the cluster I had before was a chunk of wood with gauges bolted to it.

[birdsandbees]

Hard to get a good picture, but that is correct. Clock face is about 1/4" further back than speedo face and of course the tach is another inch back. Shot of my 'Bee, it's never been out.

[Dino]

Didn't get a pic of mine but I can confirm the clock's about 1/4" back from the speedometer.  I don't like it.

[rikubot]

Thanks guys, I can sleep sound now haha. I'm not crazy about how far back it is either, but I have made peace with most of the weird things Mopar did back in the day simply because it's mopar and I love it. Structurally, it doesn't even look like it would have been difficult to mount it more flush. Hmmm...oh well. Thanks again Dino and Birds, Ill post a picture of it installed and lit up as soon as I get my wiring harness!   

[Quarterpounder]

Sure appreciate your help on resto. of the cluster. I have a question,regarding the Tic TOC Tach. I saw an article about someone selling kits to upgrade the tach. to run with electronic ignition. they say it will not work otherwise. Do you have input on this?

Thanks.

[Obi Ben Dover]

Real Time Engineering (www.rt-eng.com) makes a replacement circuit board that will allow the tach to work with points or electronic ignition.

[Lostsheep]

I've recieved a couple requests on the removal of the cluster from the car. So just a brief run down. Others that might have tips here post up!
A. Disconnect battery.
B. Check to see if you disconnected the battery.
C .Pull the radio bezel.  Not doing this is a sure way to loose the lower right corner of the cluster bezel.  Ever notice how many Ebay bezels for sale are missing that corner??
D.Next I like to slide under the dash and disonnect the speedo cable.  It gives more room for getting the cluster aft to disconnect the wiring.
E. Drop the steering column. You can just loosen the bolts to the end of thier travel and that will give enough room to get the cluster out but I prefer to get it completely down and out of the way.  You might also have to loosen the 4 bolts where the column passes through the firewall to get it to come down fully.
F.Now remove the 5 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. The ones visable through the bezel.  Now the only thing that has it is the wiring and the charger vacuum hoses.
G. I start from the left side of the cluster.  Pull it aft just enough to get a hand in there to disconnect the vacuum fitting from the headlight switch.  I often do this when I'm under the dash undoing the speedo cable but it depends on how well you 'fit' under there.  There is a small metal clip,often missing, that holds the rubber fitting on.
H. Now start disconnecting the wiring from that left side.  Each time you unplug a switch or light the cluster will come a little further out from the left side allowing your hand to go a little further right to unplug more. When you get to the terminal board be carefull.  Do not bend or wiggle the connector up and down.  This will weaken the already problematic pins. Do your best to pull it straight off. The last thing to go is the amp gauge wiring that is attached with two 3/8 nuts.
I. That should be it.
If you need to put power back on the car you can simply use a screw and nut to connect the amp wiring terminals.  Then wrap with electrical tape.  Now you can still use the electric and even start the car if desired. Of course you have no way to monitor engine conditions but I do this just to get a car to move around the garage.

The connectors for the switches are all idiot proof where they will only go on thier assocaited switch but it would be a good idea to mark the bulb socket.  That way your high beam indicator doesn't flash when you use your turn signal.

I do alot more cluster rebuilds then I installs so again if anyone has other ideas on the removal please post up for others.

Well thats a wrap.  Questions.... Feel free to ask and I'll help if I can.

I know you posted this a long time ago, but wanted to thank you for the step by step. I followed it pretty much to the letter. I've attempted to take my cluster out and got frustrated, so I never did. That being said, I'm pretty sure my cluster hasn't ever been out so it was quite challenging. It went back in a bazillion times easier than it came out....either way thank you!!

[rikubot]

This thread is hands down the best cluster restoration guide. Does anyone have a link to a complete dash resto thread? Everything but the cluster would work for me seeing as we already have one of those...

[44070dart]

I know this is old thread but my '68 Charger is new to me. I'm going to pull the cluster and refurbish my gauges. Just want to say thank you for this thread, time very well spent to help all of us lil w. Dave 

[AKcharger]

Anyone have a source for someone who can do 3rd Gen faces...I learned the hard way decals DO NOT work because they aren't flat

[resq302]

You can try Gentry at Autoinstruments.com or David Paris at performance car graphics should be able to redo the faces.

[b5blue]

Hit that with a heat gun or hair dryer and work it down?

[Mr Bigblock]

Does he Still do Restorations

[resq302]

Does he Still do Restorations

He Who?

[AKcharger]

Hit that with a heat gun or hair dryer and work it down?

Tried, 1st picture was after heat gun, this is before. also if you peel the sticker off it rips off your paint 

it's in its way to D&H  in south Carolina, luckily I had a spare head

[b5blue]

I refaced my 70's and 6 months later it crapped out anyway. 

[Mr Bigblock]

Does he Still do Restorations

He Who
lilwendal

[timmycharger]

He has not posted on this thread for about 10 years so who knows? 

[mopar4don]

... VERIFY alll gauges,clocks,speedo work prior to anything.  Ask me why I would spend all that time on a speedo with a sheared needle bushing thats not fixable??  Thats what makes me an expert. Its stilll sitting on the shelf.

I am looking into restoring my gauges and will use lilendal's write up as a guide. And I would like to verify my gauges work before I begin, but he doesn't say how to test the speedometer and or clock and or tic-toc tach. He does show how to test the small gauges and will you that.

So does has anyone know how to check the larger gauges?