Cluster Restoration.

[1charger69]

any thoughts on my contnuity situation guys???

[Johnnys440Charger]

Is Lilwendal/Mike still around doing restores?   I'd like to get mine done.
I PMed.   Probably swamped with orders, right?

What ball park price and turn around time are we looking at?

[36 Dodge Brothers]

Is Lilwendal/Mike still around doing restores?   I'd like to get mine done.
I PMed.   Probably swamped with orders, right?

What ball park price and turn around time are we looking at?

I think he is swamped, it took Mike a while to get back to me. As of today Mike has had my cluster for a about a week, can't wait to get it back 

[Silver R/T]

I'm trying to get a hold of him with no luck. Anyone know what's going on? Trying to get my cluster in for some work.

[FLG]

I'm trying to get a hold of him with no luck. Anyone know what's going on? Trying to get my cluster in for some work.

He might be busy...especially with the holidays fast approaching.

[ktneifert09]

I've been doing my cluster and all your tips have been GREAT!  I've got to calibrate the gauges and the 5V power supply I was able to get easily reads 5.22V on my volt meter.  Before I return it and start agonizing over where to find one closer to 5, is 5.22 "close enough?"  I want to do it right, but right is relative, right?   

[redfourjohnd]

I found a tutorial online to build a solid state voltage limiter. It turned out good, although I haven't put all the gauges back in yet.

The radio shack regulator that is part of the build will give you 5 volts exactly, and you can connect it up with jumper wires for the calibration.

I recommend building the solid state limiter, it's not too tough to do.

Thanks,

John D

[ktneifert09]

Can you give me a line on the tutorial you found?  I'd like to give it a try.

[redfourjohnd]

I'm searching for the exact link I had. My old laptop died so I'm having to look. I believe I found it on this board. Here is a similar link:

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-instrument-voltage-regulator64.html

And another:http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

These pages do not use the original regulator case, I fit all the stuff into the original case easily, and the output is 5 volts exactly. I didn't run a giant heat sink like these show either, as the chip bolts to the case tightly. I figure the case ought to work as a heat sink pretty well.


I'll keep looking!

John D


Edit- found the link I used:http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/11.html

[ktneifert09]

John,
So if I build this, I can ground one end and attach the other end to a 12V source (like my batter positive terminal) and it will provide the 5V?  Looks pretty easy if that's the drill.
Thanks for the help.
Kevin N.

[redfourjohnd]

To calibrate the gauges all you need is the regulator chip and some jumper wires. Make sure to ground the gauge to the regulator and ground the regulator also. Otherwise you'll get straight 12 volts to the gauge which will fry it in 20-30 seconds. You'll know if it's wrong because the needle will swing to the high reading real fast.

I would rebuild the regulator though. I just calibrated my gauges to the solid state regulator, then checked the readings with a NOS limiter I bought. The NOS limiter had the gauges reading really low, like 3/4 of the gauge. Weird.

Thanks,

John D

[Silver R/T]

Anyone know what happened to lilwendal? I have been trying to get a hold of him without any luck. Would be nice to know when I can get mine in to get restored of if he doesn't do them anymore. That way I can have someone else work on mine.

[The70RT]

Anyone know what happened to lilwendal? I have been trying to get a hold of him without any luck. Would be nice to know when I can get mine in to get restored of if he doesn't do them anymore. That way I can have someone else work on mine.

He hasn't been on here for over 4 months. A matter a fact he has only posted 8 times in the last year.

[b5blue]

New job..a move...darn fine E body resto going on...He's a busy guy for sure! 

[gtx6970]

Heres a bump.

Out of curiousty, The lever orientation of the lever is just the opposite on the switch in the car I'm working on, as opposed to as is pictured here ?
Look at the holes in the case body .
Side opposite of the lever the  top hole is threaded, there for what should be an easy way to determine which way the lever is attached. Wrong

[gtx6970]

This is the one in the car I'm working on, and it's the exact opposite.

[b5blue]

Up side down? 

[DC_1]

This is the one in the car I'm working on, and it's the exact opposite.

Did you ever figure this out? Why was the switch opposite?

[FLG]

Another bump...

Bill, i forget what page thats on but he wrote at the very end that post he accidentally installed the switch wrong.

[izzyinNorcal]

I've started looking for a used cgauge cluster since mine's in bad shape - bunch of cracks, trim falling off, etc. What's a reasonable price for a cluster that is complete, has all the gauges but needs restoration?

[charger55]

I bought my dream car a 69 Charger it's been 90 percent restored it looks great but I' am having problems with my dash and had to re-wire the fuse box, lights and new turn signal switch. I got everything working but the gauges my originals were bad,fuel,temp & oil bought new ones and burnt the fuel gauge. The limiter is working on and of at just about 5 volts cleaned and soldered the board checked all the gauges with a battery rig and the new one all good now. Had a bad ground at the board for the limiter fixed that when I ground my gauges they work one at a time. I think the new fuel gauge burnt because the ground at the limiter maybe and the sender is grounded at the tank I checked it with the sending wire off it grounds no matter what I touch i unhooked the sender for now not to burn up the new gauge until I drop the tank. My question is this what is the ground wire everybody is talking about i tried hooking A wire to the black ammeter side like somebody said and the car did not like it sparked when i hooked up the battery. They said this has to be hooked up to keep the instruments from burning up. I thought as long as your grounds are good at the limiter and when the panel is screwed to the body everything is good. Some one hacked into the wiring at the ammeter and headlight switch my concern is burning up my new gauges at $300.00 already please help. Don't see how any other wires could hook up to it my limiter does have a cap tied to ground at the center 12 volts.

Thanks Greg.         

[mr70charger440]

OK. Odometer and clock. Depending on how many more drinks the little misses brings me will determine how far I get tonight but want to take it start to finish on a cluster.
The odometer can be tricky and there are two styles.  70 is different than 68/69 actually the speedo is too but they are interchangable to all years but a 70 odometer must stay with a 70 speedo. Did  that make sense??? I do not have a 70 speedo out of a cluster right now but you can see the difference in the odometer wheels the one on the left is 68/69 and the right 70.  Also is a close up of the wheel alignment tabs that are very delicate and extreme care must be used during removal and installation.  So heres my choice on odometer decals.
www.performancecargraphics.com  I cant get Dave to sell me the decals but send him your odometer and he will reface it for 20.00.  His turn around on them is very quick as well.
To reset to zero or any other # combo... Just hold the far left tab and rotate all other wheels down till you get to zero.  Then move to the next tab now holding the previous one as well. Rotate down till that # gets to zero. Continue down the pike holding all the previously set wheels whle spinnning the next.  Once your there just do a final allignent of the tabs and reinstall. Engage the gear end first then slide into the slot. Snap on clip. Don't forget to apply a light grease to the odometer gear.
Clock.  Opening up the clock is not too difficult. There are bent tabs to remove the face so that they can be repainted. To get the clock internals out.. Three mild bends are made to the housing to hold it in.  Personally I convert all clocks to quartz.  Most originals I can get working with contact cleaner and light lube but they seem to always run fast or slow ove ra coupe days so for 50.00 bucks just swap it out.
More of my top secret source info ........There is only one place that makes the clock movements. If you buy one from anyone else for 75.00 your paying a mark up.  Get the clock from Instrument Services Inc.  1-800-558-2674  for 52.00 They have a web site but cant find the link right now.  They are also the only source for the set stem shafts thta are often broken at the adjuster knob end.  I willl not go into the details of the clock switch.  There are instructions included with the quartz unit.  For regular clock PN N-3085 and Tic Toc Tach  PN S-3015
the standard clock is easy. The tach clock has some soldering invoved but still doable for those with some soldering experience.
If you need to replace your set stem dont bother with the tool they sell for that. Just PM me and I'll walk you through it. No special tools required.
When reinstalling the speedo needle again be sure to hold the wheel on the oposite side to protect the needle bushing.
The Tach.  This goes 50/50. If I test the tach and its reading acuarately then I will not automatically convert it.  I'll leave that to the customer.
The source here is Real Time Engineering. 479-756-2757. They have a web site as well.  Also include is very detailed installation instructions but be sure you are confident with soldering,wiring and schematics before you dive  in.
Conitued to ..........Be

ok, i know this is and old post, but how do the needles come off? If i missed it somewhere im sorry, i made an account just to ask this lol.

[DC_1]

Delete this post...didn't mean to post here

[K9COP]

If you've read this far, check this thread:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,102064.msg1204151.html#msg1204151

for the issues I had with the cluster restoration. Absolutely no criticism of lilwendal or the advice given, just a cautionery tale to avoid fires guys.

PLEASE READ.

CS

[heinz13]

For us guys upgrading the charging system, I found a guy in Tn. that can change your ammeter into a voltmeter for $79. This eliminates the fire hazzard and you still have the original gauge. John @ redline gauge & clock 731-571-0766....