Help with an 8 3/4 question

[71 Bee Man]

G'day guys,

just got a set of Green Bearings for the rear axles and I'm told that now I'm going from adjustable bearings to non-adjustable, there's some adjusting pin I have to remove in the diff center. I'm told it's easy but I don't suppose anyone has a diagram or picture of what I'm removing.

It's a 742 in a 71 Charger - 3.55 sure grip. Yukon center.

Advice ??

Peter
Sydney, Australia.

[Nacho-RT74]

maybe is what does call here THRUST BLOCK


If it's, then need to remove gear from carrier and, remove pin and shaft....

wait!! that's on open differential, dunno if in sure grip

[Ghoste]

It would be in a Sure Grip as well. 

[Mick70RR]

I fitted green bearings and didn't remove anything, the thrust block is still there where it's always been.

[Ghoste]

It depends what casting you have too, the 489 won't have it.

[Lifsgrt]

Peter, I believe if your differential does not have the thrust block you should be able to see through the differential from one side of the axle to the other.  My '489 casting did have the thrust blocks.  When I changed from the cone-type diff to a clutch-type diff, I had to move the thrust block from the old diff to the rebuilt.  After removing the differential, I used a long, thin punch and a hammer to drive the thrust block pin from the center of the thrust block.  It's just an interference fit pin in the middle of the block.  Drive from one axle side of the diff to the other.  Your aftermarket diff may not have the thrust block.  Hope this helps.  Merry Christmas, Jerry 

[Ghoste]

My bad I think.  I'm talking about the thrust spacers that go into the clutch type Sure Grips and you're talking the thrust block between the side gears.  Sorry 'bout that.

[71 Bee Man]

Peter, I believe if your differential does not have the thrust block you should be able to see through the differential from one side of the axle to the other.  My '489 casting did have the thrust blocks.  When I changed from the cone-type diff to a clutch-type diff, I had to move the thrust block from the old diff to the rebuilt.  After removing the differential, I used a long, thin punch and a hammer to drive the thrust block pin from the center of the thrust block.  It's just an interference fit pin in the middle of the block.  Drive from one axle side of the diff to the other.  Your aftermarket diff may not have the thrust block.  Hope this helps.  Merry Christmas, Jerry 

G'day guys,

I finally got around to doing the Green Bearings and have only just removed my diff center to try and take out this darned adustment pin/block.

When I look from one side to the other, there IS a pin right in the middle. What happens when you push that pin out ? Does the whole block then come out or what ? I would assume more needs to be removed than just the pin. Is that right ?

Peter

[charger50071]

Why would you use the new style "green bearings"? The factory set up is much stronger.

[RD]

Why would you use the new style "green bearings"? The factory set up is much stronger.

convenience, no need for thrust spacers.

[71 Bee Man]

Why would you use the new style "green bearings"? The factory set up is much stronger.

convenience, no need for thrust spacers.

You're right - it was convenience. I also looked a fair bit on the net about opinions concerning the Green Bearings and opinions were pretty mixed, i must admit. Some loved 'em,. some hated 'em. Because I'm in Australia there's not too many people here to consult.

So.....does anyone know how to get this little bloody pin out of the diff center.? I'm out there trying to punch the bugger out, but it's a real pain.

Peter

[andy74]

i have the new green bearings in my 8 3/4,and i havent had any issue with them at all,and i dont baby it!

[John_Kunkel]

Look on the top left of the page in the link below, the two thrust buttons are held together by a roll pin; just use a small punch to drive it out.

http://gearsandrears.com/Clutchkits.html

The problem with leaving the thrust buttons/block in place is you'll never know it the axle bearings are under constant side load until they fail.

[Runner]

Look on the top left of the page in the link below, the two thrust buttons are held together by a roll pin; just use a small punch to drive it out.

http://gearsandrears.com/Clutchkits.html

The problem with leaving the thrust buttons/block in place is you'll never know it the axle bearings are under constant side load until they fail.

  hmmm i wonder if thats why some people have problems with them?   

[Runner]

Look on the top left of the page in the link below, the two thrust buttons are held together by a roll pin; just use a small punch to drive it out.

http://gearsandrears.com/Clutchkits.html

The problem with leaving the thrust buttons/block in place is you'll never know it the axle bearings are under constant side load until they fail.

[charger50071]

I know a lot of mopar people are switching to the Green axle bearings, but I respectfully disagree in using them. If you are using them in a drag race 1/4 mile car fine but for a real driver something you plan on driving they won't last but 10-20,000 miles. These bearings can not handle the side load like the factory roller bearings can. Why would our beloved mopar engineers use these bearings if they weren't reliable.[ie.. 100,000+++ miles] Good luck.

[Steve P.]

They have been using them in medium and heavy duty trucks for years...

[Lifsgrt]

To remove the pin that holds the thrust blocks together, just get a pin punch that looks to be slightly smaller that the pin, watch your fingers, and give the pin punch a few raps with a hammer.  I used this technique and drove the pin out the other side.  You'll then be able to take each half of the thrust block out from either side of the diff.  There you go, problem solved. G'day!