Hidden Headlight Motor

[280bb0]

Does anyone know who sells parts for the hidden headlight motor? I have seen the motor for sale on ebay for $200.00 seems a bit high any help would be nice. Just started work on my 72 hardtop

[Plumcrazy]

This guy restores them http://www.wiperman.homestead.com/

You could also try the junkyards, Chrysler used the same motor up to about 1980 or so.

[myk]

$200 isn't a bad price, considering that about 10 years ago I can recall them selling for about $220 at places like Year One, for example...

[bohog]

 I sell the rebuilt headlight motors on Ebay. If you just need yours repaired. I could do that for $50.00, but I would have to see it first.

The most common problem I find with these motors, is that the armature gets rusty and seezes to the lower bushing. Then the bushing starts to spin inside the bottum plate.  The motor doesn't have enough power to overcome the friction, and this causes the motor to stall. If you turn the manual knob and it doesn't spin freely, this could be your problem.

Another problem I find, is that being the motor sits right behind the grill. It's exposed to all the rain or snow your car has been driven in.
Theres a small thrust bearing and a couple of shims, that sit on top of the bottum bushing. These are usually rusted tight, and in some cases they have rusted away completely.

If you attempt to disassemble your motor, and the bottum bushing is seezed to the armature. You have to be carefull you don't pull the bushing out of the bottum plate along with the armature. There's a brush plate that is very fragile and once you"ve pulled the bushing out of the bottum plate, you'll never get it back in.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,26917.0.html

[280bb0]

Thanks  for the info I will be contacting you soon.

[d72hemi]

I sell the rebuilt headlight motors on Ebay. If you just need yours repaired. I could do that for $50.00, but I would have to see it first.

The most common problem I find with these motors, is that the armature gets rusty and seezes to the lower bushing. Then the bushing starts to spin inside the bottum plate.  The motor doesn't have enough power to overcome the friction, and this causes the motor to stall. If you turn the manual knob and it doesn't spin freely, this could be your problem.

Another problem I find, is that being the motor sits right behind the grill. It's exposed to all the rain or snow your car has been driven in.
Theres a small thrust bearing and a couple of shims, that sit on top of the bottum bushing. These are usually rusted tight, and in some cases they have rusted away completely.

If you attempt to disassemble your motor, and the bottum bushing is seezed to the armature. You have to be carefull you don't pull the bushing out of the bottum plate along with the armature. There's a brush plate that is very fragile and once you"ve pulled the bushing out of the bottum plate, you'll never get it back in.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,26917.0.html

I am about to pull three motors from a junkyard, it there any way to test them in the yard? Can I just hook a car battery to the connector (the wires from the motor), or will that damage the motor?

Ian

PS. is there ant rebuild kits our parts out there, or could you sell me the parts needed? I like to do things myself when possible.

[Plumcrazy]

I am about to pull three motors from a junkyard, it there any way to test them in the yard? Can I just hook a car battery to the connector (the wires from the motor), or will that damage the motor?

Ian

PS. is there ant rebuild kits our parts out there, or could you sell me the parts needed? I like to do things myself when possible.

First put the motor in the middle of its rotation.  If you look at the plastic switch plate you will see a notch on it and the gear that turns, line them up.
Then ground the motor housing to the negative battery terminal.  Very briefly supply power to one of the wires in the electrical connector to see if the motor will run.  When you touch the other wire it should reverse rotation.

DO NOT run the motor to the end of it's travel.   

[d72hemi]

Good! I just pulled 5 headlight motors out of the junk yard yesterday! One car still had a good battery (mid 70's Chrysler got smashed in the rear) , and the motor worked when I turned on the lights. One of the 5 has fire damage to the connector, but the motor does not look to be affected (the wire into the housing is ok). Then the the other 3 came from cars with there headlight doors shut, and not held up wit a coat hanger like my 72 charger (my motor was removed a few years ago to look at). Making me think that they worked when the cars were parked. I will be testing all of these this week. I already bought all the parts I need to make a test box for the motors. Do you think that a 12V lantern battery could power the motors? if so, that would make testing these while in junk yards easy! If they all end up working, I know couple of guys that here in UT with a 71 and 72 that could use them!