did i do this correctly (lifter preload)

[mally69]

ok i installed a new comp cam and lifters and i put in 440sources adjustable roller rockers.  When i got everything bolted on this is what I did to set my lifter  preload but im not sure its done correctly. I turned the engine over by hand and wen't through each cylinder the same. I will start off using #1 cylinder.  The piston was top dead senter on the compression stroke so both valve were completely closed, then I turned the adjuster down until it just touched the lifter or untill all the slack was taken out , Then i counted the turns until the lifter bottoms out,Which was 4 turns  then I came back up half way and tightened the adjuster nut so it can't move.. Then I rotated the engine to the next cylinder in the firing order and did those valve and so on until i when the whole way around the all cylinders.
Did i screw this up 

[Charger-Bodie]

I wouldnt run them that tight. Just when you cant quite spin the push rod anymore go 1/2 a turn and lock it down

[mally69]

So, you think i should just back the adjusters out 1 1/2 turn's  to let the lifter come up just a bit more 

[Charger-Bodie]

So, you think i should just back the adjusters out 1 1/2 turn's  to let the lifter come up just a bit more 

thats what i would do but , if I were you id wait for one of the wrenches like Ron to verify this before going thru it again

[mally69]

  

[firefighter3931]

Mally,

When setting preload you want to make sure the lifter is on the base circle (heel) of the lobe then tighten the adjuster until there is no play in the pushrod. Then tighten down 1/2 -3/4 of a turn...this is your preload. I like to use the 90* crankshaft rotation method....especially when doing this for the first couple of times. I will include the MP chart for easy reference....your balancer must be marked every 90* to use this method. If it is not you can mark it yourself or install some timing tape.

Just follow the chart starting by placing the engine at TDC with #1 piston at the top of the bore. Make sure it is at TDC and not BDC 


Ron

[mally69]

thanks, ill go check ,    i have about 3 threads above the lock nut on the adjuster. ill post up when i get the valve covers back one and fire it up,

[mally69]

ok i got it fired up it made some noises for a few seconds until the lifers pumped up  but it runs smooth and no knock's or clattering so it must be ok ..

[Charger-Bodie]

ok i got it fired up it made some noises for a few seconds until the lifers pumped up  but it runs smooth and no knock's or clattering so it must be ok ..

[firefighter3931]

ok i got it fired up it made some noises for a few seconds until the lifers pumped up  but it runs smooth and no knock's or clattering so it must be ok ..

Good job ! 

[histoy]

I use the 90 degree crankshaft rotation method, as described by Ron, however I've found a way to do it on cars equipped with MP electronic ignition systems so that you won't have to have the balancer marked. Here's how...

1. Bring cylinder #1 to TDC on the compression stroke.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
3. Note the position of the point on the reluctor to the center point of the pick-up coil.   They will be a little off from one another due to the fact that base timing is 10 - 18 degrees ahead of TDC.
4. Loosen the distributor and align the point of the reluctor to the center point of the pick-up.  Tighten the distribitor.
5. Adjust the preset for the valves indicated on the chart Ron posted.
6. Rotate the engine to bring up the next point on the reluctor.   That is 90 degrees.  Adjust the valves per the chart.   
7. Continue to do that for all 8 cylinders, then return to cylinder#1, loosen the distributor and reset it to the original position.
8. Install the rotor and cap, start the engine and reset the base timing to your liking.

I've shown this method to several friends and they all agree that it works OK....Brian

[Challenger340]

ADD Delco "EOS" to the oil prior to break-in, or, "Comp.Cams"  Oil supplement.

"Engine Oil Supplement"

Just checking to make sure you're aware.

Bob out.

[mally69]

im going to print out this whole post so i have that info , thanks guys .  as for the oil additive yea i used a small bottle of comp cam lube   But i am still about 2 turns on the adjuster(which is only about 3 threads) from the lifter being fully pumped out i guess its alright, i could change that if your guys think it is to much..

[aifilaw]

EO-IC is how I do it, just because I remember it and it works on all engines regardless of firing order..

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0303_setting_valves_info/index.html

I'd rather have rockers slightly too loose than too tight, as one will just making a clacking noise that you will notice and fix, and the other you may not know about until you look at your rotating assembly and notice its suffering from a groove or dish in the metal

[max]

Another method that's popular plus instructions that apply to hydraulic lifters.

Remove the valvecover
1. Loosen all the adjusters one turn.
2. Place the valvecover back on the head.
3.Start the motor and let it run for a couple of minutes to pump the lifters up completely. Shut the motor off
4. Remove the valve cover and disconnect the coil wire
5. On each cylinder
Adjust the intake as the exhaust valve starts to open
Adjust the exhaust as the intake is almost closed.
While tightening the adjuster roll the pushrod between your fingertips. When you start to feel resistance that is zero lash.
Continue to tighten the adjuster 1/2 to 1 turn (this amount is debateable depending on who you listen to) I ususally use 3/4 of a turn which would equal approximately.030 lifter preload. Most manufacturers reccommend .020 to .040 preload. Most adjusters are 3/8 - 24 thread. 24 threads per inch = .042 per revolution.
On the valve seq thing. it's real easy to remember if you do it like this.

While tightening the adjuster roll the pushrod between your fingertips. When you start to feel resistance that is zero lash.

on the above quote i tend to do it a bit different, i loosen the rocker arm up to where it bounces back and forth from the valve to the push rod and keep doing that while i tighten the adjuster until there isn't any movement then go another 1/2-3/4 of a turn and lock them down.

[mally69]

thanks for all this info