All I want for Xmas is some HOOK!

[firefighter3931]

Doug, i can appreciate what you're saying.  I'd just hate to see you twist up that beautiful car and start tearing sheetmetal.  Once they start hooking good.... stuff happens 

That would be cool if you could find the #'s block for your car 



Ron

[firefighter3931]

Ron,  those thing's look great, I never knew they made such a thing, i am defintaly going to get a set of those. Good thing your around here to fill people in on stuff like these   

They look good huh !  Honestly, i can't see any reason not to use them....stock look, better handleing and cleaner launches...even with street tires. These cars weren't made for 500+ hp engines and the unibody is a weak point....anything you do to stiffen the car up is a huge bonus. 



Ron

[Hemidoug]

Ron,  those thing's look great, I never knew they made such a thing, i am defintaly going to get a set of those. Good thing your around here to fill people in on stuff like these   

They look good huh !  Honestly, i can't see any reason not to use them....stock look, better handleing and cleaner launches...even with street tires. These cars weren't made for 500+ hp engines and the unibody is a weak point....anything you do to stiffen the car up is a huge bonus. 



Ron

Ron,
I do agree with you on everything you have said. I don't want to ruin the car ether way.....I just think if I go easy on the launch/shifting I can get away with it. If it is too hard on the car I can always go to a different tire to soften things up a bit. To tell you the truth, I'd be happy to get just a little more bite then I have now. Even if I can get it to grab after just a little spin it would be an improvement. I'm not looking to pull the wheels and stand the thing on it's bumper, but right now I can't even get to half throttle without wheel spin......Even with the wheel spin and peddling I get to 80 MPH in a 10th of a mile or less (top of third)....the thing is a Brute for sure!

[firefighter3931]

Doug, the stiffer leaf springs or caltracs along with a good drag radial will work wonders in the traction department. 

On the US cartool connectors ; i don't see them as ruining the car....just an improvement that should have been done at the factory. Everybody has their own tolerance level as to what they consider acceptable so no criticism here. 

Fwiw, the caltracs ride very harsh on the street...the SS springs would be my first choice in your situation. 



Ron

[471_Magnum]

Once nice thing about a Slide-A-Link vs Cal-Tracs, is that the Slide-A-Link can easily be backed off for street use.

[Ghoste]

I thought they could both be backed off easily?

[firefighter3931]

I thought they could both be backed off easily?

They both can.... but that sort of defeats the purpose doesn't it.    Both the CE sliders and Caltracs need to be preloaded to work effectively. 

With SS springs you're allways ready to go as long as you have the right tires (MT d/r's) 



Ron

[Ghoste]

I suppose it depends on the spring rate in the car and it's primary useage.

[Hemidoug]

Well step one was completed today. Just got my new "restoration" springs from Mopar performance. Nice springs! Paid 200 for the set. Next up....Caltracks....

[firefighter3931]

Well step one was completed today. Just got my new "restoration" springs from Mopar performance. Nice springs! Paid 200 for the set. Next up....Caltracks....

Doug, you got the xhd springs correct ? 


Ron

[Hemidoug]

I got the "correct" Hemi springs for 66-70 B body....not sure if that is the XHD spring you are taking about....I'll post pics and PN later.....

[firefighter3931]

I got the "correct" Hemi springs for 66-70 B body....not sure if that is the XHD spring you are taking about....I'll post pics and PN later.....

Doug, those are probably the xhd springs with an extra leaf on the passenger side. I had a set on the 68 before i went with the SS springs...they are nice ! 

Those (XHD) springs will be going on my 70 R/T to replace the sagging azz originals. 


Post the pn's when you get a chance. 


Ron


Ps. A buddy used the xhd's with a set of Caltracs on his Cuda and they work great...in case you were wondering. The car 60ft's in the low 1.60's and hooks like a monster. 

[joflaig]

This thread allong with 471 Magnum's (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21844.0.html) have really been helpful! Instead of starting another new thread I'll just post my quick followup here.

Based on what I've read on this board and elsewhere it seems that for me (90% street) a good combo would be the easily adjusted Rancho 9000s (or equivilent), XHD springs, and a CE Slide-a-Link setup. Like 471 Magnum, I have a 8 3/4 that I don't want to blow up with too much hook and the setup has to be really streetable. SS springs may be too stiff for my own comfort and if one side tilts just a hair at a standstill I know that will annoy me whenever I look at it.

It sounds like ESPO may be the way to go on the springs. I was thinking 1" extra on height because I'm not 100% sure what 2" would do to street handling -- I already have a truck  .

[471_Magnum]

Having bought and used the standard height ESPO's, I'd recommend the +1", especially if you plan to use negative offset wheels (like Torq Thrusts).

You might check with NYCMille/Mr. Angry. He probably has the entire rear suspension of my old car in a box and may be willing to part with it.

[Hemidoug]

OK...here are some pics of the new springs next to the original springs off the car. The new spring numbers are P4452982 and 983. The original spring numbers are 2539795 and 2539965. They look identical to the original ones and are made in Mexico rather then China....A BARGIN at 200 new in the box from Ma Mopar.....

[firefighter3931]

OK...here are some pics of the new springs next to the original springs off the car. The new spring numbers are P4452982 and 983. The original spring numbers are 2539795 and 2539965. They look identical to the original ones and are made in Mexico rather then China....A BARGIN at 200 new in the box from Ma Mopar.....

Doug, the 982-983 springs are the XHD's....which is what you want with the Caltracs. 



Ron

[Hemidoug]

That's what I thought as well....Thanks!

I thought I would pull this thread in as well....It's a thread I started on the SS springs....thought I would pull it all together.

Let's keep this going....good info for all!

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33318.0.html

[472 R/T SE]

I'm in the same boat as mine won't hook at all.  I have the connectors that will be welded on and as Ron once said, "You can grind any slag marks off if you ever want to go original again and paint over it and no one will ever know the difference".  I sometimes wish I would have bought the US Car tool ones but like you I felt it'd be too much slag to clean off when it's the entire floor although they're prolly better than only having two contact points.  I'm also installing either Caltracs or the Slide a Link when we put the new springs on.

IMO, if you don't want to run frame connectors I'd detune it.  It's only gonna take one time to get that hook you're after and your passenger door won't want to close correctly anymore.  I've also heard of elephant powered non connector convertible e bodies popping their windshield out.
I know of two guys who are running less potent Hemis' than yours Doug and one of them stopped doing the occasional racing before he seen the longitudinal stripe wasn't lining up anymore on the pass. side.  He was running slicks w/ no connectors I think because he was like you and not wanting to mess up an original V code car. 

I can appreciate you not wanting to deviate from original.  It's easy for guys' like me to preach connectors when I don't own an original "J" or "R" code car.    My only contribution is knowing folks running elephants w/ droopy doors.

[Hemidoug]

Ya...I'm definitely between a rock and a hard spot with this one....About the only thing I can do is find the sweet spot between chassis setup and throttle to prevent twisting her up. I know guys are getting some really fast times running F.A.S.T. and not twisting them up. I think a lot of that has to do with dropping the clutch at 4 grand and having it hook right off. That is the last thing I'm going to do. I'll ease it off the line and roll into it so it should be a little easier on her. I guess we will find out. Maybe I'll do the chassis tuning in steps and see how and where that sweet spot comes in. I needed new springs anyway, the ones on the car are all twisted up. I think I'll hold up on sticky tires just to see what the suspension will do first. I don't mind some slippage as long as I can get it to grab at some point...Stay tunned...I'll bring this post back in the spring with my results....

[firefighter3931]

  My only contribution is knowing folks running elephants w/ droopy doors.

It's not just Hemi's that have this problem....even mild wedge motors will twist em up pretty good. I've seen cars twist em up using just street tires that didn't hook all that well.  The unibody is just a poor design for hard core driving and the lack of frame ties just aggrivates the torsional twisting. It really is noticable how much better the car drives and handles with the frames tied....it's night and day ! 


The MP frame connectors are easy to install and easily reversable at a later date should the car be returned to a more stock look. I have them on the 68 but would opt for the US Cartool connectors on my 70 because they look as if they were built by the factory. The 70 is going to be more of a cruiser but i still want to play a little. 


Ron

[Hemidoug]

Ron,
I understand the Mopar frame connectors are bolt in....any word on how well they look/work? I ordered a set (cheap at 150 bucks). If they are a bolt in with limited hole drilling maybe I'll use those. The ones you are using are nice, but way too much welding to clean up if they need to be removed. A couple of holes can be filled easily IMHO and the car could be returned to original without too much trouble....

Got any pics/install suggestions? Where do they bolt to? Will they work on boxed frames?

[Chryco Psycho]

if you want to get serious a set of 32" ladderbars & housing floaters will get you hooked up

[Hemidoug]

na....Already going that route with my 65......

[joflaig]

I just added a 4-point rollcage. Sub-Frame connectors are on the list for next fall, BUT I am curious if anyone can quantify the benefit the cage will supply in terms of stiffness and preventing twisting versus a sub-frame connector only situation...

[472 R/T SE]

I thought they (MP) asked if you had a boxed frame when ordering?    I wanted to bolt mine in too but again Ron talked me out of it saying the torque will wallow out the holes over time.  With me I feel the slag will be easier to clean versus cleaning up holes after I've thought about it.

I have a set of bolt up ones but will most likely wait until spring is around the corner to add them so I won't be of much help until then.  I don't usually do any work until March or last minute.

Question...and sorry if I'm jackn' your thread.  I plan on cleaning (grinding) the areas where the connectors go and then taking it to the exhaust shop where he can lift the car with the weight of the car on four corners w/ air pressure equal all the way around & then weld.  Is this the correct method?  I should be able to weld only on the vertical sides on the subframe correct?