Rear Seat Side Window

[john108]

Rear Seat Side Window
When I Lower and Raise the Window, it bounces/jerks sideways (when at approximately Mid Travel).  I have the inside Panels off and removed the glass (by removing the two bolts going thru the bottom of the glass).  On a sliding bracket, attached to the carriage that supports the glass, is a protrusion with a spherical end.  This sphere rides approximately vertically in a channel attached to the framework.  Two pictures (attached), show this sphere in the channel and then popped out, as the window is raised.  It is easy to reach in and slide the sphere back into the channel without any resistance.
I Also found some loose parts laying on the bottom of the cavity, third picture.  A broken wheel, about 1" in diameter and a rubber sleeve.  Can these parts be the cause or what else can it be.  How do I fix it?

When I look at that side panel area, there are about 15 nuts and bolt heads.  If I were to try to remove the window mechanism, I have no Ides what to remove to avoid having a bunch of loose parts falling to the floor..  Any suggestions?

[Winged 1]

Well you have it some what narrowed down. The white parts are suppose to be a roller that is mounted on the round head. You need a new one. The rubber is a window stop. By looking at the pix I believe it goes on top. If you look inside toward the top on the inside panel you will see a little L shaped gizmo sticking out. If you roll the glass up you can see where it would hit the L. The rubber belongs around the end of the L. Not sure but think when you are looking for rollers Year one has them but be forwarned that you will end up purchasing a whole set. Just hang onto them as spares. Once you get every thing back together, be sure to apply ALOT of grease on all the moving parts. Rollers, slides metal to metal, any thing that moves.
Best of luck..
Eric

[JimShine]

Hopefully these help.

[john108]

Jim - Thank you for the exploded diagram.  I think it will help but hopeing an assembly can be lifted out, and not one part at a time.  It is a little intimidating.  I will have to spend some time looking at it to see if the problem area can be seen and worked on through the small openings in the metal structure.
Eric - This roller may be #70 or #81 on the diagram.  Do you think that it/they are the cause for the sphereical ball to pull out of the channel?
John

[JimShine]

Later on I can go get an assembly and really look at it, maybe get some pics too. Right now I am not near it. I have two complete setups all assembled I have kept around just for reference.

The whole shebang will come out, but you need to remove all of the trim and stuff around it to get it out. Even then, its tight.

[Winged 1]

Yup, on the numbers. And if you look at the pix number 61 A is the L bracket I was talking about. Kind of hard to tell from the pix, but your on the right track. The roller would roll on the inside of the channel next to the ball in your pix. It is not lined up now but will with a new roller. The removal of the whole ass. itself is some what a hassle but can be done. From looking at the pix, pretty sure when you get it out you will wonder why it worked as good as it does!!
Eric

[BrianShaughnessy]

That roller in the 1st pic is #81.   I was missing one also.

Good luck with getting the whole roller kit from any supplier... been there.  I ordered one from Jack's that is still backorderd.  YO backordered since about June.   

MT105 Quarter window roller kit for 1966-1970 B-body models.   $85.00

Probably the same supplier for all these roller kits.    YO actually already gave up on their E body roller kits that were backordered - they cancelled them per the salesperson I was talking to.

I did find the single roller from Jims tho.   Hold onto your azz like I had to.

[john108]

Eric  --  I see it.  #83 must be the rubber sleeve (anti rattler).
Brian  -  Is that roller made of GOLD?  What a price tag.  I have seen rollers like that in old radio's, that help move the tuning pointer.  I may try looking in Radio Shack.

Jim  -  Pictures would help a lot.  Also wondering what bolts/nuts need to be removed to remove the assembly.  I will try to see if any access is available through the limited openings.
I am working on the Right side but have attached a picture of the Left Side.  As a side note, while removing the 2 bolts that hold the left side glass, one bolt head snapped off.  Another problem for another day.
John

[y3chargerrt]

50 bucks for one roler? RTS sells the entire set for both sides for $59.95! Well atleast when you called Jims you got to talk to that wonderful woman..

[john108]

Please elaborate on RTS.
Name, Link, etc.
John

[Ghoste]

RT Specialties
RD1 Box 269R
Falls, PA  18615
570-388-1082
fax 570-388-1083
rtspec@azboss.net
http://www.rtspecialties.net/rtspec/index.html

[john108]

Thank you Ghoste

[Roth68rt]

Here is the kit from R/T Specialties, worked pretty good for me. 

Steve

[Roth68rt]

After roller replacement, just a test fit to see if everything worked.  Still have to clean and polish.  It's a little easier with the quarter panel off. 

Steve

[Ghoste]

It's a little easier with the quarter panel off. 
Steve

  Is that like rolling your car on it's side so you don't have to bend over the fender to get to the engine bay. 

[Roth68rt]

It's just like that, only with a little more welding. 

Steve

[john108]

Well Roth68rt
I don't have the energy!  or skill!!
I will just have to do it the hard way.
John

[john108]

By the way Steve, that picture of the window mechanism is great.
Easy to see the two rollers.
If I have to, I should be able to see what each bolt and nut, on the opposite side, connects to.
Thank you very much.
John

[BrianShaughnessy]

50 bucks for one roler? RTS sells the entire set for both sides for $59.95! Well atleast when you called Jims you got to talk to that wonderful woman..

When did you get that kit from RTS?    Did you read my post as to the difficulty in getting this kit?  I wasn't happy about paying that much... but I did find the roller manufacturer afterwards.   I just needed the stupid thing NOW to finish up a project.

As I said...   YO, Paddock, Jacks, etc.  are and have been backordered for MONTHS.     These places usually all source from the same vendor.   
YO has about 3 dozen sets on backorder as I was told.   Perhaps it's RTS that's gumming up the works now as I've been told he supplies YO, Paddock, etc on other bolt kits.     

Anyhoo....  yeah... that rear regulator job would be a lot easier if done with the quarter panel cut off.     I greased up all the rollers and channels  with synthetic brake / caliper grease.    That's just a really ph8cked up job trying to fish that assembly in and out.

My experiences with RTS wasn't all that favorable.   I got ahold of him once and got sent a bunch of fender bolts with chinese characters on them.   I tossed them into the bolt bucket after getting non chinese character bolts from another supplier.    I tried to call for other things since then but he never answered the phone.   I just go elsewhere now.  I'm not hating but I got no love either.
 

[john108]

Looking at the interior picture I posted and the exterior picture Steve posted, Can anyone identify which of the approx. 15 Nuts and/or Bolts need to be removed to slide the assembly up and out.  I hope not to remove bolts that let parts drop, that can be left in place.  I have already lost a clip into some crevis at the bottom of the cavity.
John

[john108]

Looking down in the window on the other side of the car, I can see that the broken roller belongs on the spherical end shown in the very top picture of this post!
John

[bill440rt]

John,
I broke some of those window bolts as well. They are not available repro, as far as I know. I basically took what was left of the bolt, & ground off the head to save the cupped washer. I then took a new bolt, & reinstalled it using the cupped washer & a new rubber washer I found at Lowe's. I used 2 of the rubber washers (inner & outer). They worked great.
You'll need to take the regulator out to drill out the bolt properly (don't ask me how I know...). Be very careful drilling out this bolt. The regulator is made of cast pot metal or aluminum, the bolt is hardened. It is very hard to get out. Or, you could just drill it oversize & place a locknut on the other side when you re-install the window.

[john108]

Bill
That Broken Bolt is on the opposite window to the one I just took apart.  I am going to wait until I get replacement parts for the one disassembled before I touch that one.
When that mechanism is rolled all the way up, I can grab the stub of the broken bolt (after using PB Blaster a few times) with long nose grips and squeezed with both hands trying to turn it.  Stripped the threads in the jaws of the grips, but no luck.  I will have to resort to drilling later!
John

[Shakey]

 I found a pair of those qtr glass attaching bolts at the salvage yard and paid $5.00 a piece for them.  A bit pricey but....   

[john108]

I don't know how I managed to fish out the assembly.  I twisted it every way I could and about ten minutes later it was out.  I have no concept on how to twist it in!
Brian said he greased up all the rollers and channels with synthetic brake / caliper grease.  I thought I would use some Boat and Trailer grease that I have.  It should hold up to the environment.  I don't know how it compares to synthetic brake / caliper grease or the original stuff, some of which is still on the parts (kind of waxey stuff).

Does anybody know what that black clay/putty type stuff that is put at the end of each slot, that the rollers are inserted thru?  It stops the rollers from reaching the end of the slot, which is opened up for assembly.  I thought about using a silicon-rubber product??

John