Need info on installing intake

[sixpack_sid]

 
I have a '72 Dodge Charger w/400 engine. I bought a brand new Mopar stock intake for a 4bbl carb. I got a valley pan gasket w/ a tube of silicone. Where do I silicone- the whole gasket between the motor & gasket? Also, does anybody know the specs on torquing the bolts for that?
Help would be appreciated
Sid

[Ghoste]

Just silicone at the ends.  Torque it to 40 ft lbs.

[firefighter3931]

I usually silicone around the ports and end rails....put a dab on eack corner of the end rails, it helps. Permatex ultra copper works well and is a high temp sealant. The factory manifold tq spec is 25ftlbs.

Ron

[Ghoste]

Are you sure on that spec Ron?  The fsm's I have here all say 40???

[TruckDriver]

Will the torque specs be the same for a alunimum intake?

[firefighter3931]

Are you sure on that spec Ron?   The fsm's I have here all say 40???

Maybe i'm using the old chiltons manual spec. I've allways torqued them to 25 ftlbs....never a problem. Silicone both sides of the bathtub around the ports and a bead on the endrails with a dab in each corner....no leaks. The ultra copper high temp stuff works good.

Ron

[sixpack_sid]

Would you recommend painting the intake before putting it on-or leaving it unfinished? It is an aluminum intake-it doesn't look bad. I'm worried if I paint it , it will flake off. Does aluminum corrode?
Thanks for all the repies, guys!!
You guys are AWESOME!

[TruckDriver]

I'm leaving mine the natural aluminum. It looks good

[Ghoste]

I checked my Chilton's manual Ron and you are correct, it shows the torque spec as 25.  I guess if you haven't had any problems at that spec and I haven't at 40 then anywhere between those two will work???  Bizarre.

I have run aluminum manifolds both plain and painted without any problems.  Aluminum will corrode but there is usually enough oil flying around under the hood of these old cars to keep it from happening.  As to the paint, I have been told many times that it won't adhere to aluminum but so far it has worked out fine for me.

[Chryco Psycho]

retighten the intake bolts a few times , they will be loose after a few heat cycles
I would also use the FelPro 1214 intake gasket to block the heat crossover

[firefighter3931]

I checked my Chilton's manual Ron and you are correct, it shows the torque spec as 25.   I guess if you haven't had any problems at that spec and I haven't at 40 then anywhere between those two will work???   Bizarre.

I have run aluminum manifolds both plain and painted without any problems.   Aluminum will corrode but there is usually enough oil flying around under the hood of these old cars to keep it from happening.   As to the paint, I have been told many times that it won't adhere to aluminum but so far it has worked out fine for me.

Yep, the FSM and Chiltons seem to contradict each other   I've been doing it this way for a long time no problems. As for painting the intake...yes the high temp plasticote works great. Usinng the 1214/1215 valley pan with the heat crossovers blocked keeps the manifold cooler and the paint intact. The added bonus is cooler fuel and a denser intake charge which makes more power. On the right combo, this is worth 20-25hp.

Ron

[cudaken]

 I just checked my dealer manual, guess that is what a FMS is and show's 40 foot pounds.

  DodgeChargerGuy, with after market intake I would go with 25 foot pound's if you can get a torque wrench on it. My torker will not let me use one, will not clear the runners. I just use a long 9/16th box end and yank real hard. Fist just snog, then tight, then give then some hell. I start in the center and do a X pattren from on side to another.

I only use sealer at the front and rear of the valley pan. Some friends I have use sealer under and on top of the valley pan to the heads. I have never had a vacuume leak and makes pulling the intake a snap.

                                          Cuda Ken

[Chargerguy74]

for the aluminum intake, why don't you just sand blast it then clear coat it?

[Runner]

if you use the 1214 or 1215 gaskets ( felpros performance gasket with the block offs) dont use the paper gaskets that come with them, it will make it a bitch to get the bolts started.   i use #2 permetex around the ports and silicone on the end rails.

   one small down side of blocking the heat cross overs is, if you drive your car in the winter that can be a little more cold blooded until they warm up, that being said i have them block on every both big block cars that i have and my satellite is driven every day in the winter unlesss there's snow and ice on the road.

    i like the natural finish of the aluminum but to each there own. ive never had good results with clear coat, it has always turned to a hazy yellow and looked like crap after a while.  brake clean will clean a intake up nicly once its on the car. but i wouldnt use it unless the engine is cold and you dont plan on driving for a while.

[Chryco Psycho]

clear powdercoat will  NOT yellow or peel

Duh

[Chargerguy74]

Never knew it would yellow, but if you sand blast it first it'll bond better.

[71charger_fan]

Invest in some ARP bolts for your manifold if you haven't already done the job. The noses of the bolts are rounded and are much easier to get started than the stock bolts. I've had to pull the manifold a few times over the years and they make the job much more pleasant. Or should I say less unpleasant.

[TruckDriver]

I usually silicone around the ports and end rails....put a dab on eack corner of the end rails, it helps. Permatex ultra copper works well and is a high temp sealant. The factory manifold tq spec is 25ftlbs.

Ron

Ok, I finally got around to buying the 1214 gasket and sealent. Along with the gasket kit, you get the cardboard type gaskets. My question is..... What side do the included gaskets go on the valley pan? The head side with the valley pan on top OR or the intake side with the valley pan underneath the gaskets? And do I put sealent between everything too?

[Ghoste]

Don't even bother with the paper gaskets.  It's a Chevy thing or something I think.  Just use the metal valley pan.

[Chryco Psycho]

if I use the paper gaskets at all I install them Under the pan between the head & pan to prevent the engine sucking oil into the intake

[TruckDriver]

Thanks Neil.

[Ghoste]

Hey Neil, you say "if" you use them, so I'm just wondering when you determine they're needed?  Is it something you're doing after the fact to cure an oil burning issue or are you making the call beforehand?

[cudaken]

 I heard they came out with the paper gasket for the early 440-6 intakes. Few of then did not fit just right. Neil or Ron may know the history better. I have never used them my self.

                                            Cuda Ken

[TruckDriver]

Ken, so your saying that I don't have to use them, just use the silicone sealent?

[Ghoste]

I've never used them.  Swapped intakes about 4 times in the last 5 years.
I seem to remember the last time I changed intakes asking about them on the old site.  I figured if they include it with the intake they must be needed.  Someone replied there some kind of explanation that escapes me now but the consensus was to do it the way I always had, so I did.  No problems here.
I do recall a friend of mine having problems with oil intake on a stroker big block with an aluminum intake though, so some must need it.