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Changing the rear end on the Bee

Started by WM23N1G1, November 23, 2007, 09:43:50 AM

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WM23N1G1

We"re near the (rear) end!  :yesnod:

741 3.73 ring and pinion                     $185
Bearing/seal/shim kit                        $100
Set ring gear bolts                        $15
Pair "Green" wheel bearings                     $60
Pair inner axle seals                        $10
Power-lock clutch pack                        $55
Bottle friction modifier additive                  $5
New 29 spline 7290 yoke                     $100
7290/7260 conversion U-joint                  $25
ring gear bolts                           $15
1/2" dia lug studs                        $20
pinion snubber                           $15

Had to buy a standard pinion snubber, because mine is :
The U-bolts are tired, I don't know if I will make something for the threads, or just buy new ones :
The cleaning of the pumpkin is coming nicely :

WM23N1G1

$610 later, the parts are on their way.  ::)

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Runner on January 20, 2008, 06:38:29 PM
the carrier is interchangable, ring and pinion gears are not.

I have to say I'm a little bit disagree on that... I know has been told by the experts they have to be a matching set, and I definitelly not an expert but I just can say as a testimonial I have a 741 case with 3:23. Got a NOS 489 pinion and gear set AND GEAR IS THE SAME PN than the one I found on my 741. In fact really close built ( machined ) date too.

Anyway I know all what has been said about the matching set. That can be matched again with the shims  and carrier adjusting bearing nuts thought, need to be done from the first instance like on factory, when they label the offset needed on every piece. However, aftermarket pieces I have seen ARE NOT labeled, son need to be done anyway!

Quote from: Runner on January 20, 2008, 06:38:29 PM
they are the weakest of the 8.75

well, yeah, but that doesn't mean is not strong enough. Never have seen one broken... maybe they can get broke on serious racing. Even in that way, they still got the 10 spline option ;), that does mean something ;D
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

WM23N1G1

Mine wasn't broken, but the pinion "ate" the gear.

Nacho-RT74

well thats a diff stuff and is not in relation with case kind really
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Belgium R/T -68


Also beeing from overseas, RD: what's wrong with jimsautoparts? They seems to have a huge stock and inventory.  :scratchchin:
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

mikesbbody

whats wrong with jims? service or lack of but i have never dealt with jims.

WM23N1G1

I received yesterday one parcel:

new studs and bolts:

U-joint, new yoke :

Bearings and gaskets:




pinion snubber


I think I will get the other parcel tomorrow.

WM23N1G1

Hi guys,

I know I should be ashamed, but the rear end has not yet been rebuilt. :eek2:
Well, I just can't do it by myself because I know nothing about anything... :lol:
The friend of mine who could have done it faced some serious issues, and I do have lots of problems too.  :popcrn:
Anyway, another friend of mine found a guy who is really good at mechanics, but who mainly deals with GM cars. He already has rebuilt the rear end of his wife's '71 Charger (not a 8 3/4), but he doesn't seem too confident about rebuilding mine... :eyes:
I found a conversation with Dr Diff in my email related to High Performance MOPAR Magazine, May 1997, PGS 28-30. I just can't find any file on my system related to that:
QuoteI sell a shim kit that is used to restore the tolerances between the side
gear and spider gears.  This kit is used after machining 0.040" off the base
of the cones to restore traction to a worn out sure-grip.
Does anyone have pics of these pages, or any documentation related to that process? If you ever have any documentation about rebuilding a 8 3/4, I'm really interested!

TIA!

WM23N1G1

We're almost reaching the end...  ::)
Still have to change the drum springs , put the oil in, and frighten the old ladies in the streets.  :popcrn:

WM23N1G1

Still have to fix a fuel issue, but the Bee made its first meters by itself a few days ago.
We're seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.


WM23N1G1

Thanks for the link, I do hope I won't need to remove once again the rear end to adjust the settings... ::)

68RED4SPEED

Hehe my fault, answered the last post at page 1 and didnt see there where a page 2 until it was to late, anyway now you got it.
Sven

WM23N1G1

Hi,

made 20 miles last saturday, and kaboom, away went the propeller shaft.  :o
Apparently, one of the clamps on the rear axle flange broke, and the assembly... disassembled. :'(
I managed to park, get the shaft before someone hits it, and put it in the trunk. No one was hurt, and the shaft still looks good. :yesnod:
I suppose something blocked in the rear end, and the weaker part of the assembly went south...  :shruggy: