Calling Drop Top.....

[runningman]

Anyone know how to get in touch with him??

[Troy]

I do but I have to be at home first.

Troy

[SLIKK 70]

He lives about 5 miles from me but I lost his number. I can go by there if all else fails!

[runningman]

Bad timing, getting ready to cut out my floors........

[CB]

I miss his professional imput too.
Lets hope he finds his way back.

[SLIKK 70]

Just talked to him a few minutes ago and Troy sent him an E-mail. He will probably be on soon as he can.

[runningman]

Thank you!!

[CB]

cool!!!

[Drop Top]

  Hi guys! Good to be here.
Thanks for the info so I could find all you guys/girls.

[CB]

nice to see you Drop Top!!!
Welcome!!

[Troy]

Hi guys! Good to be here.
Thanks for the info so I could find all you guys/girls.

Hi! Glad you made it!

Troy

[runningman]

Just in time , I will have some questions for you shortly.  I am getting to cut out my floors and weld new pans in.

[runningman]

Okay, started cleaning the metal today to see how much of the floors I will have to replace.  Looks like pretty much all of it, the metal is pretty pitted up to the area where the pan is spot welded to the rocker.  Should I just drill out the spot welds where it attaches to the rocker area or try and butt weld it close to there?  Seems like it would be easier to drill the spot welds.  Should I put a jack under the frame rail area if I am cutting out that much of the floor?  Oh yeah, it's a 68....thanks!

[Drop Top]

Drill out the spot welds. It will be easier to access everthing if youi jack the car, as far up in the air as you can. As long as the car is on flat solid ground and you don't work on the rocker panels or the roof, you will be OK. If the side or rocker panels are rusted then you need to replace or fix them first. Make sure you put the jack stands on the frame rails and in places out of the way of cutting your floor pans out. Be prepared for allot of drilling. Good luck!

[runningman]

Thanks Drop Top, I started cutting and drilling today.  I have a few inches of clean metal below the firewall seam.  Should I seam in there or just remove the whole thing?

[Drop Top]

I would replace everything to the factory seams. Not that much more to do and will look factory when your done.

[runningman]

Okay I will do that, a couple more questions.  I took the pieces off that were welded to the floor to help support the seat.  It looks like there was some kind of sealer under there, like a silicone or something.  What do you recommend I do when I weld them to the new floor?  I was just going to spray some weld through primer between them.  Also I am guessing I need to spray the weld through primer between the seams before I plug weld them, I read that it was kind of hard to plug weld with the primer on the bottom piece.  Is that true?  I thought that was the purpose of weld through primer.  thanks!

[Drop Top]

I have never used weld through primer until about a week ago. Then I just sprayed it on an area and haven't welded it yet. I never even heard of it before I read about it on the old board. So I can't tell you about how it works. Sorry. What I usually do was weld everthing together, apply the brushable seam sealer like the factor did. Then prime it all when I am done. I believe the seam sealer is what you are seeing.

[runningman]

Just borrowed a lincoln 110V mig welder from a buddy.  A couple of questions, is there any specific place I should start welding?  Plug welds or tacking the butt weld area?  What size wire should I use?  Right now he has a flux core wire in there so I am going to have to change it out anyways.  Thanks  Matt

[Drop Top]

It really dosen't mater were you start. Just tack it in all the way around first. Tack it in one corner and make sure it is in the right location. Move to the opisit corner and do the same after you get all the corners tacked be sure its were you want it before moving on. Once your satisfide then keep going working from one corner to the next. Jumping from one corner to the other will keep the heat down. Stop welding and let it cool if it starts to get too hot. If you can't put your hand on it, it's too hot. You can usually weld 2 or 3 spots before moving to the next corner. Keep the spots about and inch apart. Once its welded all the way around start all over again by welding inbetween each spot. Do this entil its all welded solid.

For the size wire to buy. Its a 110 welder so it should have the corect size in the welder all ready, seeing how its made just for the type of welding that you are going to do. Don't change the size. If you change the size to a larger one you will need to buy a new linner to a larger one also. The number should be on the spool.

[runningman]

Okay I ended up getting a miller 135 welder, I have pretty much got the drivers side floor pan welded in.  I am in the process of grinding the weld down, should I leave a little extra weld and blend with filler?  I would like to practice using filler so I figure this is the best place to do it.  I am using the zero rust on the pans, should I use a metal to metal filler on the bare surface?  thanks!  matt

[Drop Top]

You should grind the weld smooth or even with the floor panel. Then if you want to use filler to smooth it out more so. Seal it with a good bare metal sealer and use a good quality filler like Rage. I only use Metal to Metal for heavy fill areas. Like replacing lead seams.

[4402tuff4u]

One thing I did when I installed the new floor pans was shine a bright light on the floor pan seams and look underneath the car for light through pin holes. I would weld pin holes before applying any sort of sealer to prevent moisture penetration. Just my two cents. 

[Drop Top]

  Very good idea! I do this all the time after grinding down any weld.

[runningman]

Great, thanks again for the info!!

matt