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My 4speed will not slide all the way flush against bell...

Started by Blakcharger440, November 18, 2007, 04:45:24 PM

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Blakcharger440

I am installing a 833 4speed in my 70 Charger and I can get it to slide in to about where there is about a 1/8 gap between the trans and the bell housing but it will not slide any further in.

What do you think could be the problem....

Charger-Bodie

has this engine and transmission even been together before ,and what type of pilot bearing are you using?
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Blakcharger440

The 833 trans I am installing is a rebuilt one and is replacing the bad one I took out. I am using the pilot bearing that fits into the crankshaft register at rear of engine. The other trans fit flush.

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 04:51:02 PM
The 833 trans I am installing is a rebuilt one and is replacing the bad one I took out. I am using the pilot bearing that fits into the crankshaft register at rear of engine. The other trans fit flush.

the reason i asked if they had been together before is that sometimes when you have a crank that wasn't finish machined for a manual transmission, the tranny wont slide in all the way cause it bottoms out in the crank. to remedy that some people have been know to cut a small amount of of the input shaft .do you still have the other tranny? if so measure to see if the input shaft sticks out further from the machined face of the tranny housing than the other one?
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Blakcharger440

Quote from: 1hot68 on November 18, 2007, 04:58:30 PM
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 04:51:02 PM
The 833 trans I am installing is a rebuilt one and is replacing the bad one I took out. I am using the pilot bearing that fits into the crankshaft register at rear of engine. The other trans fit flush.

the reason i asked if they had bees together before is that sometimes when you have a crank that wasnt finish machined for a manual transmission, the tranny wont slide in all the way caause it bottoms out in the crank. to remedy that some people have been know to cut a small amount of of the input shaft .do you still have the other tranny? if so measure to see if the input shaft sticks out further from the machined face of the tranny housing than the other one?

I might have already measured the input shafts already and that came out fairly close....I will yank the trans back out and measure them again. Neither of the input shafts seemed to have been modified in any way.

Charger-Bodie

maybe check and see if there is something in the pilot hole stopping it from going all the way in too. or aroung the front bearing retainer collar on the front of the tranny also , they are pretty tight tollarances  :scratchchin:
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Blakcharger440

Quote from: 1hot68 on November 18, 2007, 05:09:50 PM
maybe check and see if there is something in the pilot hole stopping it from going all the way in too. or aroung the front bearing retainer collar on the front of the tranny also , they are pretty tight tollarances  :scratchchin:

Yep real tight...now I cant back the trans off from the bell housing. What can I do to get the trans backed off.

The70RT

Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 06:11:44 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on November 18, 2007, 05:09:50 PM
maybe check and see if there is something in the pilot hole stopping it from going all the way in too. or aroung the front bearing retainer collar on the front of the tranny also , they are pretty tight tollarances  :scratchchin:

Yep real tight...now I cant back the trans off from the bell housing. What can I do to get the trans backed off.

Sounds like the collar is stuck. Just use a pry bar but be gentle. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. You may have to sand or emerycloth the opening and or shaft collor to lose some snugness.
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Blakcharger440

Quote from: The70RT on November 18, 2007, 06:19:48 PM
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 06:11:44 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on November 18, 2007, 05:09:50 PM
maybe check and see if there is something in the pilot hole stopping it from going all the way in too. or aroung the front bearing retainer collar on the front of the tranny also , they are pretty tight tollarances  :scratchchin:

Yep real tight...now I cant back the trans off from the bell housing. What can I do to get the trans backed off.

Sounds like the collar is stuck. Just use a pry bar but be gentle. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. You may have to sand or emerycloth the opening and or shaft collor to lose some snugness.

Yep the collar of the bearing retainer is stuck in the register hole...since its under the car it makes using a pry bar very difficult. I have tried light taps with a rubber mallet but it will not budge.

resq302

I had the same problem with my trans.  I was told when I brought it to a trans shop that there were three different length input shafts.  One for B bodys, A bodys, and ones for pick up trucks.  Someone prior to me getting the car must have swapped in the incorrect input shaft.  The reason I know this is that I was able to get the trans to bolt up prior to getting my engine rebuilt.  While the engine was being rebuilt, the mechanic said that my thrust bearings inside the motor were all broken and into pieces.  When I tried to reinstall the trans after the engine rebuilt, I had the same problem you do with the gap.  I decided to get longer bolts and then go around to each of them tightening up a little at a time.  I ended up cracking my bell housing.  Turns out the problem was what I mentioned earlier.  After replacing my bell housing, I had put a little of bearing grease on the very end of the input shaft to see if it was making contact on the crank.  Sure enough it was.  So then came in the mathematics of measuring the total lenth of the trans where it was flush to the bell housing to the tip of the input shaft with a micrometer.  Next we measure from the flat of the bell housing to the furthest point in on the crankshaft.  This was done by using a dowel and then making a line where it was flat with the area where the bell housing met the trans.

Try that and see if that helps.  We also ruled out the pilot bearing by getting the old one out and it slid over the input shaft nice and free.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Blakcharger440

Well I just yanked out my old 833 4speed just about a week ago. I think the bearing retainer on this trans might just be a tad bigger as I am really sure the input shafts are the same length. I didnt have trouble with the install until I got the trans slid in all the way to the retainer and then it got stuck.

The70RT

Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 08:04:27 PM
Well I just yanked out my old 833 4speed just about a week ago. I think the bearing retainer on this trans might just be a tad bigger as I am really sure the input shafts are the same length. I didnt have trouble with the install until I got the trans slid in all the way to the retainer and then it got stuck.

Hopefully you can swap it over.
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Blakcharger440

Quote from: The70RT on November 18, 2007, 08:30:43 PM
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 08:04:27 PM
Well I just yanked out my old 833 4speed just about a week ago. I think the bearing retainer on this trans might just be a tad bigger as I am really sure the input shafts are the same length. I didnt have trouble with the install until I got the trans slid in all the way to the retainer and then it got stuck.

Hopefully you can swap it over.

Yep, I figure I would swap the retainers or.....lightly sand the bell?

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 09:15:12 PM
Quote from: The70RT on November 18, 2007, 08:30:43 PM
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on November 18, 2007, 08:04:27 PM
Well I just yanked out my old 833 4speed just about a week ago. I think the bearing retainer on this trans might just be a tad bigger as I am really sure the input shafts are the same length. I didnt have trouble with the install until I got the trans slid in all the way to the retainer and then it got stuck.

Hopefully you can swap it over.

Yep, I figure I would swap the retainers or.....lightly sand the bell?

.....and put some anti-sieze on there too!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

tecmopar

Most of the original retainers have a slight bevel on the leading edge to help guide it into the bell hole, if that much is going in and the rest of it won't then its usually rust/dirt that stops it. I have also seen where the retainer is cracked by one of the 4 bolt holes causing it to bulge out and causing this problem. I've also seen where someone has used the wrong bolts for the retainer and the flanged part of the bolt head stuck out past the edge of the ret. I have only seen one retainer that was machined wrong from the Factory. If you are going to change the retainer make sure its for the same size bearing and just take it before you put it on the trans and slip it in the bell to make sure it fits. Mopar left about an 1/8" +or- depth clearance between the crank and input shaft. To measure it with the trans out is really simple just using a wooden dowel as stated before if you don't have the needed equipment to do it, good luck.